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Wheel Binding While Not in 4wd

Big T

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Fullerton, CA
since the GMT 800 brake conversion, I get a wheel binding on RF during sharp left turns as if it were in 4wd, but it’s not. i’ve Checked for rubbing and there is none. Sometimes after straightening out it lets go with a thunk. We took video of this and you can see the truck rocking but nothing at the wheel.

 
Could it be a binding CV axle ?

I was thinking the same, so I placed it on jack stands and rotated the wheels while in full turn in both directions. I was looking for rubbing or binding and saw none, though the outer CV boots make a bit of noise.
 
That is just weird. A person would thing about wheel bearings or CV axle.
Does the brake caliper float freely on its pins ? Not that I could see how brake calipers could cause binding unless the wheel hub and bearings was sloppy.
 
Can you freely spin the front driveshaft by hand? Maybe the front diff is stuck locked in. I got to back up to get things unlocked into 2wd sometimes.

Out of round tire?
 
Can you freely spin the front driveshaft by hand? Maybe the front diff is stuck locked in. I got to back up to get things unlocked into 2wd sometimes.

Out of round tire?

WW I spun the wheels when fully turned up on stands. The driveshaft back to the transfer case spun with it, but rear wheels were on the ground. Light is on the for 2wd button.
 
Can you spin the front driveshaft freely by hand with the front wheels on the ground? If not the front diff is stuck in 4x4 and will act funny even when the transfer case is in 2wd. Sorry, I do not know if it should or should not be spinning with wheel rotation. The lights act on different things and may not tell what things are really doing 3 mile island style. (Commanded closed but valve really not closed.)
 
Can you spin the front driveshaft freely by hand with the front wheels on the ground? If not the front diff is stuck in 4x4 and will act funny even when the transfer case is in 2wd. Sorry, I do not know if it should or should not be spinning with wheel rotation. The lights act on different things and may not tell what things are really doing 3 mile island style. (Commanded closed but valve really not closed.)

That I will need to check. Thanks.
 
Alright went out and checked and with the front wheels on the ground, I cannot rotate the front driveshaft. So where do I go from here? Plug is on the actuator, which is the newer electro servo type.
 
Alright went out and checked and with the front wheels on the ground, I cannot rotate the front driveshaft. So where do I go from here? Plug is on the actuator, which is the newer electro servo type.
You might pull the servo and check to be sure it is functioning, Hook it to its wires it should motor in and out when You change the switch positions.
It should not be able to be pushed in when the shaft is extended and should not be able to pull it out when it is in.
 
Have you engaged the 4wd lately? I would go find a big non paved area engage the 4wd drive a few figure 8's disengage and repeat. Doesn't have to be 8's but think that would be best. Go in reverse like WW mentioned too. Notice how fast the front axle engage indicator comes on and goes off. Might just need to be worked some some free it up.
 
Alright went out and checked and with the front wheels on the ground, I cannot rotate the front driveshaft. So where do I go from here? Plug is on the actuator, which is the newer electro servo type.

Front axle is stuck in 4WD then. The drive shaft should spin freely like when you "unlock the hubs" in 2WD and that's the entire purpose of the actuator is unlocking the front diff sort of like unlocking hubs. Check the motor has power when the ignition is on. I defer to a schematic/flowchart as there are switches etc. involved. I find that the system hangs up and lets go when it wants to sometimes esp. if it has any torque on it - thus the reverse suggestion.
 
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