What's the danger in increasing the timing too much?

[Sparky8370]

Just like the title says. I am trying to decrease my EGT's in a certain area. I increased the timing, and dropped from 1500* to 1400* max. I found that in that area, there is a table (B0921 in mine) limiting the timing to 20*in that area. I am not over 20 now, but if I add any timing in that portion I will be. Not that B0921 will allow it, but I've thought of changing B0921 to allow 30* in that area.
The area I am thinking of changing to 30* is columns (rpm) 2000-3400 and rows (ect) 162 and 190
Thanks for any help.

 

[Sparky8370]

Anybody?

 

[Ridge_Runner_Diesel]

Timing is dependent on three things, rpm, fuel quantity, boost.

All three make a difference.

If it is rattling you have too much.

 

[stacks04]

also dont forget to add your timing after pilot # to your main timing with multiplier to get a total timing. the after pilot timing is essentially the amount of crank degrees it waits after pilot injection before it starts main injection. if you have max timing set to say 30*and your after pilot is 15* and main timing is 20* total is 35*, it will cut your main timing to 15*. the ecm will always start timing with the max in mind and cut you base timing to stay under that #. it wont cut timing after pilot numbers. and as far as i know we dont have a specific pilot injection timing table.

 

[BudTX]

Reading this thread reminds my why my programmer is plug and play. :bigeyes:

EFI Live is leading edge stuff, but there is no way that I could tune something myself and still have a clue as to what I just did.

 

[Sparky8370]

Timing is dependent on three things, rpm, fuel quantity, boost.

All three make a difference.

If it is rattling you have too much.

It had somewhat of a rattle in lower RPMs when I first started building this tune, but I went back and took some out. Actually, I made it so that everything is mostly stock, and it doesn't really kick in unless I punch it and it gets to about 1300 RPM then it ramps up and really hits around 1500 RPM.

also dont forget to add your timing after pilot # to your main timing with multiplier to get a total timing. the after pilot timing is essentially the amount of crank degrees it waits after pilot injection before it starts main injection. if you have max timing set to say 30*and your after pilot is 15* and main timing is 20* total is 35*, it will cut your main timing to 15*. the ecm will always start timing with the max in mind and cut you base timing to stay under that #. it wont cut timing after pilot numbers. and as far as i know we dont have a specific pilot injection timing table.

Add or remove? I had considered that and I had removed timing there, I lowered the numbers. At 2000 Rpm I removed 1.8* from 10-20mm3, 1.5* from 25-35mm3, 1.7* from 40-110mm3.
I removed 3.0* from the 2200, 2400, 2600, 2800, and 3000 RPM columns. The rest of the table I removed 1.0* from.

This is what you meant right? The way I was looking at it is that if I am not making it wait as many crank degrees, I am essentially advancing the timing.

 

[Sparky8370]

Reading this thread reminds my why my programmer is plug and play. :bigeyes:

EFI Live is leading edge stuff, but there is no way that I could tune something myself and still have a clue as to what I just did.

Do a little bit at a time, then log a few runs and watch your gauges. I like it. It's fun learning to do it too. And it gives you a better understanding of what's going on inside your engine. I can see the "no hassle" appeal of a boxed tuner, but I would much rather have it this way.
I get to pick what I want from a buffet, your stuck with your happy meal. ):h

 

[3cylinder]

EFI

Reading this thread reminds my why my programmer is plug and play.

EFI Live is leading edge stuff, but there is no way that I could tune something myself and still have a clue as to what I just did.

X2