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water pump

T

tireguy

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Texhoma Ok
Hey guys i was wondering about the water pump that heath sells in his upgrade kit. I would like to buy it seperatly but dont see it listed that way.
how many of u are towing with oem cooling systems? heath says the oem water pump prioritizes 80 percent to the drivers side 20 percent to pass. if thats true im scared to tow much at all like that. 210 on drivers side = 240or50 on pass!!:eek: can't be good
I would like to have his whole upgrade but cash is tight right now.

Any Ideas??
 
read around some on here... the idea is that it was fixed on the late model water pumps (search balanced flow maybe?) and the best is upgading to the screw on water pump (2000, IIRC) and a duramax fan blade (on a clutch).

I hope that helos for tonight, in case others are gone to bed.... Or raptured... tonight is the end, if you believe the interwebz!
 
I got a 2000 balanced flow pump with screw on hub for the fan clutch from the local carquest. I don't remember the cost. I called and talked to one of Heath's guys and was fine with that pump. I did get Heath's low temp fan clutch. I already had the DMax fan blade.

Don
 
Rats just bought a new fan clutch a month ago, and now if i understand right it wont fit on a 2000 model wp??
 
GM Part number 88894035

On Edit: Sorry, this is the water pump that Heath identified in his MaxxTorque article and the one they sell with the kit.
 
Last edited:
Which fan clutch did you get? Was it the four bolt clutch? Was it the Hayden severe duty clutch? My experience with the Hayden severe duty clutch wasn't good, but I may have gotten a defective clutch.

It is possible to get one of the high output water pumps with the four bolt fan clutch mount. The pump is much better than the earlier pumps but isn't the balanced flow of the 2000 model year. Getting one of these HO pumps will let you use your four bolt clutch if that is what your new clutch is. I tried the Hayden four bolt fan clutch with DMax fan on my stock 94 non HO water pump, unsuccessfully. With this setup I never had temp problems, until I tried towing. That's when I went to the Heath clutch and the balanced flow pump.

Don
 
If you want the most balanced then it would be the type Heath sells, which is the 2000 model year, plus he changes the bypass nipple fitting to a restricted one which the dealer also has. But that restricted fitting is only needed if using the dual stat housing.

That pump wont accept the 4-bolt clutch. An OEM clutch for 2000 would be alright, but need to adjust the bimetal coil to get it to engage before 220F coolant temp.
 
I can see that i will have to rethink this whole mess before i go further. i dont want to put more money into the cooling system just to find out that i should have went all the way!!! wish id have known this when i bought the new clutch. i was under the impression the 1996 had the upgraded cooling sys. as i have dual thermostat housing. I guess according to chevy they did improve it, but in the real world it dosn't work. Boo hu hu
 
The 2000 year water pump may be the best performer in the group, but many people do fine with the 97-98 high output water pump. Not sure which water pump you have right now if it did come stock with dual t-stat housing, could be the older 90gpm or the more recent 130gpm that was officially in 97 model year vehicles. Flow balance is indeed important, but having the fan clutch kick in and having a good fan can overcome the balance issue. What fan do you have? Is it the older 6 blade or more recent 9 blade metal fan?

If you already have the 9-blade fan you can do the fan clutch mod, 97 year 130gpm water pump with restrictor fitting. If you have the older 6-blade fan and clutch for it, then it may be good to get a different clutch anyway, since the 9-blade and DMax fans dont mount up to it correctly.
 
my 96 has dual stats high output WP and a 6 blade fan. I think when they switched to dual stats it automatically came with HO WP
 
GM Part number 88894035

if i buy this pump and then have to buy a matching clutch and fan ill get close to the same money in it as heaths setup. is any 2000 year pump balanced or just the part listed above?
 
The ACDelco unit is the only way to know it is the correct housing and wheel changes, but the other vendors for $100 less may have the spec for the latest design or reverse engineered the ACDelco exactly. It may be worth asking one of those companies if they are exact replacement, if they can answer that. Amazon seemed to have the best price for ACdelco unit alone. And the restricted fitting is a dealer item for like $12 if it doesnt come with a restricted one. I think you can get away with the pump, a new OEM clutch and a Dmax fan for about $450, so some savings without the HD clutch, and new Tstats from Heath. I would just keep the Delco 195 stats if you already have them. Then you just do the quick fan clutch mod to the bimetal coil on the front of the clutch, so it engages before 220F. That is you straighten the end of the coil and make the bent tab about 1/8"-3/16" shorter.
 
In order to get this design you want the latest part number as the 88894035 number has already been updated. (Any part number that is that one or newer.) You want a new pump, not rebuilt. They changed the pump housing that is typically re-used in a rebuilt pump.

As far as towing:
OEM 6 blade system with new condenser and radiator:
Scuffed and cracked the #1 piston from overheating when the radiator cap let loose and shock cooled the block. It burned through 7000 miles later with oil analyses getting me phone calls.

4 bolt Auto zone HO water pump, Kennedy low temp fan clutch, 9 blade steel fan, 180 t-stat, water wetter:
Would not go over 210 pulling 10% grades at WOT with a 24-28' trailer in 32-95 degree (F) weather. Usually run below 210, but less grade hills (not WOT) could cause it to sneak up on 210 before the fan locked in. Yes, I tow with the AC on unless temps dictate I need to turn it off. So far this setup has not made me do that. I have 30,000 miles towing hard with this setup (550 miles a day with 10% grades.) Yes, I ruined the cheap Chinese injectors already.

Many are cheaper that I am and calibrate their own fan clutches with good results. Myself, I find the low temp clutch combined with the 180 T-stat works well for ECT. It also helps AC performance in our 115+ weather out here. You turn off the AC in this weather and it is like a blast furnace. So to me the extra $150 for the calibrated clutch is worth it. Throw it in and forget about it during the 550 mile towing trip the next day... The 180 T-Stat appears to avoid the not unlocking that some complain about with this clutch.

My Pickup and non-towing Suburban both have this Kennedy clutch and 180 T-stat. They also now have the Dmax fan that has better airflow at idle. Both the 20" steel and the DMax fan work very well towing and are equal. The idle performance is where the Dmax fan is better. The lightweight plastic fan is also an advantage over the heavy lawnmower blade 20" steel.

In summery if you already have a 4 bolt water pump the above setup works well enough that the balance flow issue is not as big of a problem as it is with the low output pump.
 
tireguy said:
what year DMax fan and clutch will any work?? and does anybody have a part # for the bypass restriction?
Click to expand...

2002 Dmax fan and it may require trimming of the shroud.
Bypass restriction can be made with putting a pipe plug in the nipple and drilling a hole in it.

No, none of the 4 bolt pumps are balanced flow. However, going high flow and lower overall temps (low temp t-stat & fan clutch) makes the problem marginal. If you want the very best you need the thread on pump and fan clutch.
 
well waitin for money business a little to slow to play with it right now. I say that and now ill go pull with it and smoke something on the engine cause i didnt do it right away.
 
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