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Was fine now no start?

saturntech95

saturntech95

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Been driving my truck with no signs of anny issue for a while now, drove to work fine then went to go grab lunch and crank no start. I run a qt of 2 stroke in every tank, has maybe 5k on the new injectors, IP has about 50k, Staydyne grey in bumper with about 10k. The glows are coming on, LP coming on and making preasure. Batteries are 3 months old and it cranks with plenty of speed.

Anyone got some ideas??
 
Cleaned all the grounds when I rebuilt the motor and put the injectors in.

No codes stored, Cranking speed within specs.
 
Make sure the LP is pumping, purring/coming on does not mean it is starting. Test them properly.

Check all grounds, cables and connections to battery.

Check the starter.

May be the ignition switch?
 
Fuses good, LP is good, starter good, ignition switch good, grounds good, NO fuel to injectors. Disconnected optic sensor and still no fuel?? Maybe a bad FSD? Anyone remember if the Staydyne grays had a warranty?
 
Just because the glow plugs are coming on, doesnt mean they are actually working. Whats the temperature where you are? I know my 6.2 wont start without functional glows up to 70+ ambient temp.
 
Swapped in another fsd.... still no go. I think it might be the shut down solenoid, they have one in stock at the dealer but I hate to geuss on a $180 part.
 
mangus580 said:
Just because the glow plugs are coming on, doesnt mean they are actually working. Whats the temperature where you are? I know my 6.2 wont start without functional glows up to 70+ ambient temp.
Click to expand...

Glow plugs are new, it's 80* out and I have no fuel to the injectors.....
 
PMD extension cable?

The Grey Stanadyne should have 2 yrs warranty but that depends on where you get it from.
 
PMD extension cable is from PMDcable.com

Man you are really on this glow plug thing, THEY ARE FINE! It's a fuel problem.

Now to find the link to test the shut down solenoid...
 
Dont buy a shutoff solenoid. Just pull the old one off and with a snap ring pliers pull the plunger out of it and put the solenoid body back on. If it works that was your problem, or a blow fuse and bad power to it. Check to make sure that 12V is getting to the solenoid with IGN on. You can put plunger back in later if you like. That part is redundant, and not necessary.

Double check the fuses, all of the ECM ones, with a meter. test continuity across the tops of each, dont even need to remove them.

You can tell if PMD is getting and sending the injection signals by using a multimeter, probe into the insulation of the line coming out of pin B of the PMD and other meter terminal to ground. Check for Volts AC, and when cranking should get about 1.2VAC. If you dont have that then there is an electrical problem. If it is there then you must have a mechanical or fuel supply issue.

Air in the fuel would cause starting issues.
 
Shut off solenoid gutted, Nothing. Has 12v power and ground to FSD, didn't have someone avalible to crank it.
 
I can't tell by your response if you checked for power at the shut off solenoid.
Did you have power to the solenoid?
I realize that is not the problem but whether or not you have power there could be telling.
Also - Is your wait to start light working?

I realize that is not the problem but whether or not it is working could be telling.

Did you do a lift pump test and note the flow of fuel coming out the drain and the bleeder?
I use a gallon glass pickle jar run a fair amount of fuel into the jar. Leave it set for about 20 minutes and check for water. Also watch for air bubbles while running fuel out the bleeder and drain.
You can jumper the the lift pump under the hood. There is a spade connector near the fuse panel that you can jumper hot and the lift pump will run.
 
Had power to the shut off
Wait to start light comes on
Did test the lift pump and flow was good
I had the fuel sitting over night and it looks fine

I am starting to think its the IP but there were no signs of a failure coming,the thing was great, shut it off and now nothing. Seems more electrical to me??

"IF" I dont get the 1.2v signal from the FSD while cranking what would that be?? I have someone that will be able to help me crank it now.
 
I would say double check you wiring harness connections and continuity. The optic sensor maybe?
I doubt it's the IP.
Is there a way to check for juice to the IP?

I once had a bad connector in the harness.
 
To check the 1.2VAC, it all has to be hooked up. So PMD plugged in, and need to probe the line going out of pin B of PMD. I just poke through the insulation with meter tip and I cover that with liquid tape later. If you dont have anything there then PMD or PCM has an issue. If its really low would probably be a PMD issue. And an issue with either could be power related or grounds. If you have the 1.2VAC then its likely something with the IP, like did the harness come off under that rubber boot.

Pin F is the fuel solenoid ground. With pmd unplugged You can check the ohms between pin F of the harness and ground, it should be straight continuity, like 0.1ohms. check between pin B and pin F of the PMD harness and there should be very little resistance, like 0.5ohms. If there is high resistance the contacts came off or fuel solenoid broke.
 
Yup no 1.2 volt AC signal. So that means either PCM or wiring right? I just put the Kennedy PCM in it when I rebuilt the motor 5k ago. Where are the common places for wiring problems? I have heard under the intake on the back of the IP anywhere else?
 
Any plug connection. At the age of these trucks any connection is suspect.
Especially if they hae purposefully or accidebtly sprayed with a chemical that is not friendly to plastics. Like PB Blaster.
 
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