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Wanting to build pulling hitch

Will

Boobies make me happy
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Location
Mt. Pleasant, IA
Does anyone have plans or a place that I can buy the parts to make an adjustable pulling hitch? I seem to recall a post some where on the board saying a member bought the ring as well as the channel with the holes in it at a camper parts store but I'm not 100 percent correct.

I would also like to build some rear suspension stops as well. I have a plan in my head. Take a piece of flat stock say 3/16 or 1/4 thick x the highth of the frame. Then weld a piece of square tubing to that plate. Bolt the plate to the frame. Find another piece of tubing that will slide inside that tubing. Drill holes for a pin to slide through to make it adjustable. Sound like it will work? How big of tubing should I use? 2x2? Open to suggestions here.

Also needing something to add some weight to the front of the bed.
 
Ive been through many designs of all three of those. Heres some tips.

1:Hitch

There are many ways to make one. The simply quick change pin method, the method where the eye runs up and down a piece of ready rod, the method where the eye can be slide up and down on a plate and then have the bolts tightened or my favorite way. Getting the rear of the eye close to 26" sticking a pin through the rear of it then having two adjustment screws that contact the front of it and can pivot it up or down to get it right to 26" on the head.

My design currently is the quick change pin. But i will be making one with adjustment screws soon hopefully.

For they eye/loop. If you have a steady hand you can torch it out. Make it out of 1" plate with a 3x3.75" eye with 1" of material around the eye. This is regulation size. YOu can also plasma cut it or machine it or water jet it. But it can get expensive. My new loop for the new hitch was cut with our shops new CNC high frequency plasma cutter. It was pretty funny watching it do it as the machine has a table that holds 6 8x4 sheets.

Make sure its sturdy. Make the shank out of solid 2" stock.

2: Blocks

Your design sounds the same as my old/current design. They dont need to be super heavy but heavy enough. At least 1/8" would be good. Mine are made out of a 3/16" wall tube that slides into a 14 gauge tube.

My new design is simple. A piece of threaded pipe welded to a plate that bolts to the frame with a piece of threaded rod that threads into the pic with a nut welded on the end which contacts the axle. Makes precise adjustments possible.

3:Weight Bracket.

Go get some 3x3x1/4 tube. Notch the one end 3.5" in and 1.5" down. This will allow it to slip into the frame rails and under the crossmember. Then mark thhe holes in the frae then drill a 1/2" hole. Then stick 4" long 1/2" bolts in it. There isnt any load applied to these bolts they just keep it from sliding out. Then from there once its out past your bumper you can do whatever you want. I made mine go up at an angle to make loading it on the trailer easier.

Use 5/8" plate for your spot to hang the weights. It fits most weights. I know mine fits JD, Old Magnum, New MX Magnum and IH weights. The width of the plate depends ont eh weights used. I went 6" wide IIRC but it doesnt fit my IH weights so I have to run Magnum or MX Magnum weights.
 
I can't get any info or pics up on their site.

same here.


I don't remember who it was but someone with a Medium duty on the other site(C/5500 I think) baught an aftermarket bumper/hitch assembly that was not only 1 piece, but it was lowered down quite a bit since, IIRC, his truck had a slight lift... or was it bigger tires? IDK. I don't remember, I just have the image of the hitch stuck in my head as to what the bumper and hitch looked like and I've wanted to build one since.

Start off by throwing some ideas down on paper and either scanning them in or taking pictures of them and uploading them here.
 
do you want to build a complete reciever

heres mine and my weight bracket.

Im going to build a different hitch though this one is too bulky and i dont like the way it adjusts. Ill probably end up building something more dedicated that has an adjustment rod tied to the axle.

0310091957a.jpg

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DSCN0140.jpg
 
That's some fine craftsmanship you've got there Vinny. Simple and too the point, I like it.

Not quite what I had in mind but if would certainly fix the broken receiver hitch on my end. Did you weld it up to the frame or is it bolted on?
 
This one is bolted on. After i built the best I realized I had a hitch that could pull a loaded semi trailer but it's still only held on by six 1/2" bolts.

I had about a half hour in setting things up and cutting and such. And about an hour in welding. There's a lit of welds on this thing.

My new hitch is even less complex and will most likely be welded to the frame. I will also be adding a secondary hitch to so the truck is legal for another local organizations diesel class.
 
At least it wasn't 9/16". Those bolts are a real pain to find :D

Are you building the rear hitch now? Maybe post some pics up of it?

I doubt you would want to use a factory pulling hitch for sled pulling right? So do there attachments plug into the standard 2" x 2" receiver design? Or does it require that Oval ring design?
 
We offer these hitches if anyone is interested. I have used mine for a few hooks and have no complaints either. Price is very hard to beat. Pm me for details. :thumbsup:

AdjUprightSide.jpg
 
At least it wasn't 9/16". Those bolts are a real pain to find :D

Are you building the rear hitch now? Maybe post some pics up of it?

I doubt you would want to use a factory pulling hitch for sled pulling right? So do there attachments plug into the standard 2" x 2" receiver design? Or does it require that Oval ring design?

I pulled a number of times with my factory hitch but my truck was more stock then. Over time they start to twist. Even Reese tow beasts twist.

I haven't started building the new hitch yet.

At the pull you must have a 3x3.75" loop. Some pulls will allow a 3x3 but most don't because of the new safety hook. And if you must you can use a clevis which aren't the safest but on the flipside they are safer than some peoples fabricating jobs I saw one hitch made out of u bolts.

Te biggest thing is to make it safe
 
We offer these hitches if anyone is interested. I have used mine for a few hooks and have no complaints either. Price is very hard to beat. Pm me for details. :thumbsup:

AdjUprightSide.jpg

GMCLBZ is that ring the 3 x 3.75" like durallymax said you need to have at the sled pulls? If it is I may be PM'ing you later on down the road about one. Though, I'd have to flip that thing upside down to get them to be able to hook onto big blue. shes a bit taller now :D
 
It looks to be the 3x3.75" Im sure it is or they wouldnt be building them.

Depending on your resources it may be cheaper to buy one than build one. I get steel free from a sponsor and have good fab skills and tools to create things of the nature.

If your a hobbyist with a pocket welder and not so great skills it may be best to buy one.

The biggest thing is that you need good welds. And to penetrate deep enough you need a BIG welder. I had mine cranked so high that my welding gloves would be too hot to wear after one 3" bead. Thats using gas sheilded flux core though which creates immense heat.
 
GMCLBZ is that ring the 3 x 3.75" like durallymax said you need to have at the sled pulls? If it is I may be PM'ing you later on down the road about one. Though, I'd have to flip that thing upside down to get them to be able to hook onto big blue. shes a bit taller now :D

Yes sir it is, let me know if we can help.:thumbsup:

I forgot to mention that they come with a lifetime warranty.
 
It looks to be the 3x3.75" Im sure it is or they wouldnt be building them.

Depending on your resources it may be cheaper to buy one than build one. I get steel free from a sponsor and have good fab skills and tools to create things of the nature.

If your a hobbyist with a pocket welder and not so great skills it may be best to buy one.

The biggest thing is that you need good welds. And to penetrate deep enough you need a BIG welder. I had mine cranked so high that my welding gloves would be too hot to wear after one 3" bead. Thats using gas sheilded flux core though which creates immense heat.

It might be, but then again, I can lay down a pretty decent bead and the welder I use(the one i used for the axle swap). Thought I'm not quite as fortunate to have freebie metal to use. While things are quiet at work I can poke around the web and see the kind of sled pulling hitches there are out there. If the price is right, I may just go with one. Or it will give me more idea's on how I could build one.

Thanks GMCLBZ, I'll be in contact with you sometime down the road for one of those puppies. They look like that have some serious meat to them.
 
I'm not that much more fortuneate. Te only thing better about my situation is I call them and they have guys cut it from new lengths and set it out. But it's a structural place so I can only get heavystuff for the most part.

You can get the same things as me fr free if teres a local fab shop in your area. Ask them if you can poke around in their dumpster. You'd be suprised what they throw away altheough many are strting to save more and more.
 
We offer these hitches if anyone is interested. I have used mine for a few hooks and have no complaints either. Price is very hard to beat. Pm me for details. :thumbsup:

AdjUprightSide.jpg

:thumbsup: Me likey that. I'm thinking I'm just going to have to order that here before pulling season starts.
 
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