• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

want to rebuild my engine

gcxcountrystar1

gcxcountrystar1

New Member
Messages
135
Reaction score
0
want to rebuild my engine. On a budget build. what should i replace and what will be fine to keep the same.(rods, pistons, crank, etc). where should i look for parts at that are reasonable prices. thanks guys
 
Curious as to why you need a rebuild?

Quick and dirty way to do this is a surplus used and test run military 6.2 engine for $950 plus shipping. (Boyce equipment in Utah.) Hone the cylinders and slap in fresh rings. ARP heads studs as well. Other places sell tested military surplus 6.5's for more money. 6.5's and 6.2's are nearly identical.

Look at the cost of rebuilding your engine and possible block cracks making it impossible. Parts and machine work add up fast. For those without a budget there are better Optimizer block castings to work with.
 
whats the chances of my block being cracked. i think i have a cracked head im smoking pretty bad. my radiator keeps blowing the antifreeze into the reservor. so i thought it might be blown water jacket on the head gasket or cracked head since these engines are known for them. so i though since i have to pull the heads might as well rebuild the engine since it has 417xxx miles on it.
 
I would seriously give Ted's Trucks and Stuffs a call. See what they have. You might be able to get a better engine all around for cheaper than you can rebuild yours.
 
been thinking cummins swap??? but dont know how big of a project that will be for putting it in a chevy. but i will call Ted's Trucks and Stuffs and see what they have
 
Sounds like you have a head gasket that failed or a cracked head. You might get away with just pulling the heads to fix that. Bad blowby? You can see what head needs to be pulled by removing the thermostat crossover and watching each head coolant port for bubbles on start up and running a little - water pump belt off...

Odds are really good that you have some cracks. These engines are known for it from a defective design. They made the warranty so they were good enough in their day. Main cracks and cracks in other areas of the block are what cause you expense and trouble. Some can't be fixed. Engines are running with bad cracks in them now and simply haven't failed yet. It simply is a go - no go for a rebuild. I re-ringed mine with two 1/2" main cracks, but, I didn't touch the main cap bolts. It will fail from this, just a question of when. (Suddenly with crankshaft breaking violence.) I am a little nuts for putting it back in service vs. just getting another 6.2.

You will not know till you have the engine out and the oil pan off. Visual can fail some blocks for cracks you can see. Mag it for others.

Put together a budget before you start. This will help you determine the course of action you take.
 
If your on a budget, things can get expensive quickly.

You can check some things out first, for very little money.

  • Try to isolate the compression leak.

You can isolate the bank, by pulling the t-stat cross over, removing the fan belt to disable the water pump. start the engine for a short time, watch for which side bubbles.

Note the quantity of bubbles they can indicate cracked head, or a blown head gasket.

If one side is bubbling, you can isolate the cylinder by removing each glow plug to see if the bubbles stop when the engine is started.
​
  • Compression test is a must know piece of information.
What is the pressure and how even are the pressures.
​


If you go the route of tear down, check your rods for straightness. Especially if the compression is uneven, that may indicate a bent rod. (some one ether'd it a some point)


I've gone down several of these roads, cracked head, blown gasket, busted engine. :mad2:

When I looked at having mine rebuild, I was near $5K. For an additional 2k (not to mention I had no choice), I put in a 6.2/6.5 hybrid reman.

If your going down the rebuild road, make sure it makes sense on the $$$$$. I might have chosen a different road if I have really looked at the numbers closer. Its tuff if you end up with a lot of $$$$ wrapped up in a old truck like we drive.

Good Luck
 
Well said, I spent more then I anticipated on
My last build. I'm very happy with the power and peformance but things do add up VERY quick.
 
i had a guy contact me from craiglist saying he has a 6.5td that came out of a 98 k2500 chevy. he says it only has 26k on it. i asked him why he had it crated for shipping and he said a customer came in and said they wanted a new engine put in their truck because they were gonna be driving all over the united states pulling a trailer and traveling, but it doesnt make sense. at 26k the engine is barely broke in i would think. and he only wants 1500 for the engine. its not adding up to me. the engine has never been rebuilt its factory everything
 
If it's a new crate motor, it might be a Navistar 506 casting. Have him send you a pic of the passenger side rear of the long block along with the date code. If it's a Navistar 506, then that's a great buy.
 
i know im very interested in the engine. but the engine is 13 years old and dont know when the last time it was ran. if it was back in 98 99 or 2000 would the gaskets even still be good or would they be dry rotted. and would i be able to put my mechanical pump on that engine. are the 98 engines better then the 93? i know the engines had problems with the 93 with cracks but since technology has changed so much?
 
ok so i asked the guy for the pictures and this is what he sent me can anyone let me know anything about the numbers
032.jpg
033.jpg
 
Yeah, that's not a navistar casting. Especially if it's 13 years old.

Still might not be a bad engine. It's a risk, though, if it hasn't been run in that long. If you get it, I'd definitely replace seals and gaskets and add ARP studs.
 
You can get a teds engine for a few hundred more, tested and run before they ship it.

If he has any left that is.

Something sitting that long will have rust in the cylinders and might even be seized.

Personally I would pass on that one unless you can get a gaurantee that it will run.
 
i asked the guy for a gaurantee and havent heard back from him dont think i will but he runs his own business working with engines so he might prove me wrong
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top