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Walbro FRC-10 installation question - no start

J

juddspaintballs

my balls are painted!
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West by God Virginia
I'm in the midst of installing Leroy's Walbro FRC-10 pump and pre-filter setup. Everything is plumbed up in place and wired properly (I actually used a relay to give the pump plenty of amperage). I cranked the engine and it fired up, but shut off when it burned the fuel in the fuel filter manager. I did not fill the pre-filter like I realize now that I probably should have. No fuel got sucked from the tank into the pre-filter.

If I go get a little bit of diesel and fill the filter, refill the FFM (and maybe let some run backwards through the line until it comes out at the pre-filter housing), I should be able to start it up again. Will the pump suck fuel from the tank if the pre-filter is filled or do I need to do some sort of back flush of fuel through the system until the entire line is full of fuel all the way back into the tank?
 
You can use air to force fuel through everything... stick a air nozzle in the tank and slowly push fuel through the system & T-handle at the front of the motor..
 
I actually put diesel in my brake pressure bleeder and pushed it through the system backwards from the t handle drain. It was slow but it worked. Pushed gunk out of my tank sock too. Truck ran great and had all power back until the sock got gunked up again. Time to drop the tank now and remove the sock and replace the sending unit.
 
Your go to go now? other than tank sock issues?
If you have any questions about MRFSU let me know before you cut.
 
FRC-10 and filter installed and working great. While the engine is idling, I can open the bleeder tee and there's a powerful stream of fuel that comes out. The old lift pump would barely trickle fuel out of the tee with the engine idling and just had a tiny stream of fuel with the engine off. I need to take a picture of the install because it actually came out very nice that I could bypass a 5' section of hard line and still use the screw on fuel line barbs on both sides so none of my rubber fuel line is bent in a 180* arc to possibly kink off.

One of the heater hose T's got a crack in it last night while I was test driving the new pump so it's not going anywhere right now.

Still have to drop the tank and take the sock out, then put in the MRFSU. I have a feeling I might be dumping the remaining contents of the tank on my gravel driveway to kill some weeds. If I have questions on the FSU, I'll get in touch. I'm curious whether I even need to cut it with the big 42 gallon tank of the Suburban
 
Here's some of the install pictures:
20130807_202912.jpg20130807_202917.jpg20130807_202923.jpg

Yes, the filter just barely touches the frame rail when spinning it on, but not once it's in place. The relay is sealed with silicone. The fuel hose doesn't stick any lower than the filter, which is about 1/2" lower than the frame rail.
 
Two 5/16" bolts with lock washers through existing frame holes. One is tucked behind the filter and the other behind the pump. It's actually aluminum C channel and it bridges over the brake line and stock fuel lines.
 
Find a way to get the filter bottom above the frame rail. Otherwise the next time you get tire service the filter WILL be level with the frame rail as the tire shop lift crushes it. Trust me you will not remember...
 
When I was making the brackets I welded a section that was offset higher up to raise the filter. I like the idea of chanel, but I would weld a plate to it to raise the filter.
 
I'm not incredibly worried about it. My tire shop lifts the axle instead of the frame and I never take my vehicles to a repair shop. The filter is mounted near the front of the rear doors, so it's in a horrible place to jack from anyways. It's the family vehicle so I don't go off-roading in it. If you're selling a mounting kit with the kits, by all means make sure it's higher than the frame, but for my installation there's no reason to mess with how it is now.
 
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