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upgraded cooling

P

pipelinetrash89

New Member
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Location
Tulsa, OK
Ok guys I think it's about time for me to do all the goodie cooling upgrades. I carry around 3,xxx lbs. all day everyday with welder, tools, bottles, etc. I'll also be pulling a travel trailer to and from jobs it weighs right around 11,200 loaded down. I know HO water pump, upgrade fan clutch, and a d-max fan are usually standard. What my question is, wheres the best place to get all of these from? And also, is there anything else that I need to address?
 
Rockauto is where I got my DMax fan. About $55, if my memory is correct. I got the HO 2000 model year pump locally. After a bad experience with a Hayden heavy duty fan clutch I bit the bullet and got the expensive fan clutch from Heath Diesel. I just couldn't afford to possibly lose more money experimenting with different fan clutches. I don't have the funds to do any more experimenting, but I wish I could compare it to the clutch Kennedy has. I've heard some good reports about their clutch.

Don
 
I run both a Hayden and a Kennedy low temp clutch. The Kennedy with the 180 single t-stat and HO pump keeps me below 210 no matter how slight or harsh of a grade I sneak up on towing. The Kennedy works well with both the 20" steel and 21" Dmax fan. The Dmax fan is better for AC at idle. No difference otherwise with the fans. The Hayden clutch is late for AC and runs hotter before cooling down or stopping the temp spike. The AC difference is enough to pay for the low temp clutch as it takes 20 min for the Hayden to kick in for AC demand.

Pull and clean the radiator, and clean between the AC condenser and oil coolers as a mat builds up there.
 
Well I might call Oklahoma home, but I'm only there for about a month out of the year. All the other months I'm on the road making a living for my family. I think I'm going to try the kennedy clutch and D-max fan. What water pump to I need? I know the 99+ are a balanced flow, but is it a must have item?
 
pipelinetrash89 said:
Well I might call Oklahoma home, but I'm only there for about a month out of the year. All the other months I'm on the road making a living for my family. I think I'm going to try the kennedy clutch and D-max fan. What water pump to I need? I know the 99+ are a balanced flow, but is it a must have item?
Click to expand...

I just installed the 2000 model HO water pump on my son's '94. I bought the new Bosch model for a 2000 K2500 6.5 at Rock Auto for $125.

http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/showthread.php?38651-Water-Pump-Change-Out
 
Ok guys, I have all my parts in my shopping basket. I just want to make sure of everything before I pull the trigger on it all. Everything is AC Delco except the fan clutch, which is a hayden? I have a 99 water pump, 99 6 blade fan, a 190 thermostat, and a hayden severe duty fan clutch. Is this all I need? The pump and fan clutch are the bolt on type, is that ok?
 
I've done this 3x on different trucks. You are not listening. If you are buying all new stuff, then do not buy the 6 blade fan and do not buy the 4 bolt water pump.

Buy the HO water pump with the spin on fan clutch for the 2000 K2500 truck with 6.5. AC Delco pumps are fine, but so is the Bosch and it's $80 less at rock auto.

Buy the 9 blade 21" Dmax fan, it's very good.

Yes on the AC Delco 190 t-stat.

Hayden severe duty spin on fan clutch is fine.
 
No, I'm listening. I just thought the 99+ waterpumps where all balanced pumps. Didn't know that I had to have the spin on fan clutch. I was just looking at the fact that the 99 waterpump is $60 cheaper then the 2000. I'm not big on doing things twice, so now I have a 00 waterpump, 00 hayden severe duty clutch, and a 01 d-max fan. Is that up to par?
 
pipelinetrash89 said:
No, I'm listening. I just thought the 99+ waterpumps where all balanced pumps. Didn't know that I had to have the spin on fan clutch. I was just looking at the fact that the 99 waterpump is $60 cheaper then the 2000. I'm not big on doing things twice, so now I have a 00 waterpump, 00 hayden severe duty clutch, and a 01 d-max fan. Is that up to par?
Click to expand...

I looked on Rockauto and your two best choices for the 2000 K2500 6.5 HO water pump are:

Bosch Part # 99158 $125.79

ACDELCO Part # 251603 $221.89

I have used both now and they are both very good. The ACDELCO just increased in price by $16 in the last month. No change in price for the Bosch. Both are brand new pumps. The ACDELCO is painted, the Bosch is not. Treat yourself to a can of spray paint if you wish. I install mine raw.

The rest of your selections are spot on. You will not be disappointed. Please touch base if you have any problems on the install.
 
Thanks man, I got the bosch in the shopping cart. I just wanted to make dang sure before I send the money their way. I do have a question. There's bolts on the back of the pump correct?
 
pipelinetrash89 said:
Thanks man, I got the bosch in the shopping cart. I just wanted to make dang sure before I send the money their way. I do have a question. There's bolts on the back of the pump correct?
Click to expand...

Yes, there's bolts that hold a cover plate on the back. Clean everything up with a putty or scraping knife and acetone. Use the gasket provided and black RTV on everything.
 
Whats the easiest way to get to the bolts? And I'm assuming that the black RTV only goes where the gasket doesn't cover? I've never changed out a pump on one of these, just gassers
 
You must first remove the water pump from the engine to expose those backside cover plate bolts.

There are a series of bolts around the pump. Some, have studs on top of the bolt heads as additional items install on top of the (i.e. power steering pump bracket and vacuum pump bracket). Make sure you separate and label these so you know where they go. Most of the bolts are a 15mm socket, but some on the bottom of the pump are 13mm. Got to get all of them and it will knock off with a strike or two with a rubber mallet. Maybe a little prying with a screwdriver.

It's not a bad job. Draining the coolant is a mess. I disconnected the lower hose from the water pump, as you'll have to disconnect that from the old pump anyway.

I used RTV on everything, including both sides of the gasket. Also on both sides of the gasket at the t-stat housing.
 
In case it isn't clear. The water pump comes out with the steel plate behind it still attached. So the oil fill tube and those bolts around that plate all come out. There are like 6 bolts holding the pump to that plate. This is a good place to use blue locktight.
 
Ok WarWagon thanks! I was thinking that you had to unbolt the plate BEFORE you pulled the pump. I was thinking it was going to be a PITA. This doesn't sound to bad to me now
 
Ok WarWagon thanks! I was thinking that you had to take the bolts off to be able to pull the water pump off. I was thinking it was going to be a PITA, this makes it less daunting.
 
Sorry pipeline if I wasn't clear. I hate that when pros here take things for granted and I don't quite understand and have to ask tons of clarifying questions. Then I go and do it myself.

Yes WarWagon is correct, the plate is on the back of the pump and it becomes accessible when you remove the pump.
 
Ok guys, I've got all of my cooling upgrades done now with the addition of a new radiator also. I took it for about a 30 minute drive, and I can't get it to warm up. It takes about 15 minutes for it to warm at all, and it only come up to the first mark above 160 on the gauge. I've taken it and opened the bleeder on top of the thermostat housing and all that comes out is coolant. So I'm stumped now, what do ya'll think I should try next?
 
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