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Truck won't start, hot or cold.

keelergr

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I have a strange problem. When I go to start my truck and I turn the ignition on the dash lights come (i.e. the glow plugs and other check lights) but when the glow plug light goes off and I proced to start the truck the entire truck goes dead including interior and exterior power. Any ideas? Thanks for any help I can get.
 
Hi Keelergr, and welcome to the DieselTowingResource!

First, we need you need to fill out your signature (click the link in mine) so that we can see what kind of truck and modifications you have.

The first thing you should do is check the state of your batteries and connections. Take everything apart, clean it all up so it's nice and shiny, make sure your batteries are fully-charged, and then try it again.

Pay particular attention to the battery with the dual-cables-on-one-post ... when you get corrosion in that one, the truck will behave exactly like you are describing.

If cleaning everything properly fixes you up, you need to make some time to do the cheapie (under $10) battery-post modification so the problem doesn't come back. We can help you with that one, too.

Go clean stuff up real good and let us know how that works!

Jim
 
Thanks. That was my first response to this problem. I have replace the connections on the battery cables and verified that I have continuity from battery to battery, down to starter, over to the fuse box. I have also made sure the batteries are charged up to eliminiate that possiblity.

I was just out doing some additional checking and found that when I turn the ignition to on and my dash lights come on, the Service Throttle light is blinking in concert with a clicking that is coming from my glow plug controller. This continues for about 8 seconds or so and then all power is gone from the truck once again. I replaced the glow plug controller and the problem remains. I have verified that I am getting power to the glow plug controller.
 
I did check my grounds as well. They seem to be ok as well. I am getting 12 volts at the glow plug controller which is what I get at the battery terminal as well.
 
Getting 12v isn't a bad sign, but not getting any amps would be... I had similar issues with mine once (was a bad battery ground); it would be just fine, until I turned the key to start... then the truck went dead. Shut the key off, turn it back on, and I had radio, lights, etc again. Turn to start, click. Dead truck.

Getting 12 volts through a bad connection isn't hard; but when you can't pull amperage through it, the relays kick out.

Have you checked the fuses/relays under the hood? (particularly the ECB-B fuse, as I recall).

Pull a few and check them; look also for corrosion around the legs and plug-ins. A number of people have reported this as an issue. Does your glow plug controller still 'click' and then kill the power to your truck?

Hook up a set of booster cables between batteries... positive to positive, negative on driver's side to alternator or AC bracket. That should eliminate the bad ground theory.
 
Thanks, I will check the ECB-B fuse. I have check them and have verified that none have blown. What you describe happened to you is very similar to my predicament.

Yes, my glow plug controller still clicks and kills power to the truck. I did some additional checking when this happened and the only points where I am getting power after the clicking stops is at the battery and the fuse box under the hood. There is none to the alternator, the glow plug controller or anywhere else.

I will use the booster cables to eliminate the ground possibility.
 
I hooked up the booster cables as you suggested and now the engine is cranking a little. I in Michigan and it has been cold here the last couple of week and the truck has been sitting in the driveway. I am charging the batteries now.

Since it is trying to crank, I would assume that I do have a ground problem somewhere. Anywhere in particular I should check? One other thing, I don't get the clicking on the glow controller anymore but I also am not getting any glow plug light on my dash.
 
Disconnect both batteries and test/charge them individually....one bad cell in one battery can cause some headaches...
 
Do what Chris said... then I would go looking for a bad cable. Look for bulges, 'crinkly' spots, stiff spots, and check all the connections again... one bad connection, one bad cable, one bad battery, heck - as he said - one bad CELL in one battery, and you got issues.

You're on the right trail, now it's just a matter of closing in!
 
Anywhere in particular I should check?

Remove the wires from the negative terminals on BOTH batteries. Trace each wire to where it's grounded. Remove it, clean the lug(s), clean the connection point. Put it back nice and snug.
OR
The wire from one positive to the other is bad. You could remove the jumper cable that you have going to ground and just jump the positives together to eliminate that wire, but I'd bet that you have a bad ground somewhere.

BTW - Just tightening them up doesn't get it --- The lugs and connection points have to be clean, clean, clean.
Don't miss the strap from the block to the frame near the starter... It's a killer all by itself. While you're down there be absolutely sure that the bracket from the starter to the block is there and tight. If it isn't there -- GET ONE VERY SOON.

Good Luck!
 
Another thiing I have seen happen is also the ign key could be the culprit. When the power dies out on you have you touched the key at all. try to wiggle it around and slightly turn it (not as far as to recycle it to the next/previous stage). I have had a few vehicles where that was the issue.
 
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