are you familiar with relay wiring? They have 4 or 5 contacts. The center one if it has the 5th contact is 87a, not needed right now, so 4 contact would be OK.
To make the OPS the relay trigger.....
Take the grey wire output of the OPS, cut it several inches back from the harness, and connect the OPS harness side to contact 85. You need to be able to work with both sides of the grey wire you cut, so leave enough wire length on each side. You may need to solder or crimp in some additional wire. You can connect wires to the relay with blade crimp terminals. Contact 86 of the relay then needs to be grounded anywhere. This now means the relay will allow voltage/current to pass through from contact 30 to 87 when the OPS would normally power the LP.
To provide the power.....
put battery voltage to contact 30. You can either split it from the orange wire that already provides the power to the OPS or get it from somewhere else. I used a battery junction post on the firewall, used 12 gauge wire, a crimp ring termal to the post, crimp blade to the relay.
To send the power to the LP...
the other side of the grey wire that you cut coming out of the OPS harness goes to the LP, and needs to be connected to contact 87 of the relay. You may need to solder or crimp in some additional wire.
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You could also do an OPS extension if getting to the stock location annoys you enough. PMDcable.com sells a nice premade extension. I used a grease hose with 1/8" to 1/4" adaptor fittings for each end. The OPS casing/threads need a good engine ground, so I put a terminal ring (and washer because there was space) between the 1/8" grease hose fitting and 1/4" adaptor fitting on OPS side of the grease hose.
