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Truck steering is tough just off-center

mitchedo

mitchedo

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Bountiful, UT
I know this isn't the right place for this, but this group has the smartest folks regularly monitoring it.

My truck's steering is a little odd. It acts like bad kingpins, but it doesn't have kingpins. All the ball joints are new. It also acts like it needs more negative caster.

When driving straight, it takes more effort to get the wheel to turn just off center. Once turned just a tad, it wants to stay pointed in that direction.

There's no wander, just the weird "stiffness" and tendency to stay pointed where turned just off-center. Regular turning is just fine; it's only noticeable just off-center.

I looked at the alignment specs when I had it done last. The caster is -0.5 on one side, and about -2 on the other. I'm thinking about -4 would be good; does anyone know the spec? How does one adjust the caster on these? ...some kinda special ball joints?

Any ideas?
 
The last time that happened to me, my steering box locked up going around the next corner. It turns out the bearings around the worm gear came out of their races and locked up solid. I managed to get it home but it took a lot of muscle. You might want to take the top plate off the steering box (this is where the adjustment screw is) and check the condition of the internals.
 
Brooklyn Tow said:
Adjusting screw?......Any info on that?
Click to expand...

Most if not pretty much all steering boxes have a backlash adjustment to adjust for wear etc from Pinion to worm gear. Although I have never messed with this body style truck what he is describing(especially after an alignment) is typical tighten too much scenario. It's a headless bolt that usually has an allen with a lock nut or something. Sometimes screwing with it can cause the box to start leaking as well.
 
Acesneights1 said:
Most if not pretty much all steering boxes have a backlash adjustment to adjust for wear etc from Pinion to worm gear. Although I have never messed with this body style truck what he is describing(especially after an alignment) is typical tighten too much scenario. It's a headless bolt that usually has an allen with a lock nut or something. Sometimes screwing with it can cause the box to start leaking as well.
Click to expand...

Exactly. Never mess with that screw unless you have the front end off the ground, the tires off, an inch-pound torque meter, the instructions, and a good deal of experience.

I did not mess with mine, but the time my dad messed with his, it was kinda like this. He had to get a new steering gear. I don't want to buy a new steering gear. Did Saginaw quit making them or something? Saginaw steering gears never wear out.
 
Your powersteering pump also have EVO, which coordinates a sensor on the steering column to the pump via wire harness. Basically tells the pump how fast you're turning to control the valve in the pump to help adjust assist. Can't hurt to unplug that, check it out out and replug it in. Perhaps its dirty or not reading properly from the steering column... Just a thought.

I think all 97+ (maybe 96) have EVO. You can tell by the wire harness plug on the bottom of the P/S pump. Perhaps its not plugged in? I had to reach my hand way down to feel mine. Perhaps with your shiny new engine you can see it.
 
Acesneights1 said:
Most if not pretty much all steering boxes have a backlash adjustment to adjust for wear etc from Pinion to worm gear. Although I have never messed with this body style truck what he is describing(especially after an alignment) is typical tighten too much scenario. It's a headless bolt that usually has an allen with a lock nut or something. Sometimes screwing with it can cause the box to start leaking as well.
Click to expand...

Not an adjustment for wear, but for correction.

Monkey with it if you wish, but wear in the steering gear requires a new one, trying to "adjust" your existing one will require a new one that much sooner.
 
mitchedo said:
Exactly. Never mess with that screw unless you have the front end off the ground, the tires off, an inch-pound torque meter, the instructions, and a good deal of experience.
Click to expand...

Never heard of all that.....tires off??? I've always adjusted my old clunkers for WEAR......using a screwdriver and wrench, loosen the locknut and turn the screw in (in 1/8 degree increments) - until you like it.

I don't think this is the issue he's having. The gears always wear more in the center - therefore it would be tighter out on either end and cause the steering to bind even more.
 
When i had my wheel alignement done on my 98 after i replaced the lower ball joints and a tie rod end,the mech told me my steeringbox needed replacement cause it felt stiff off center both sides,and would not return by itself like yours..
I backed the allenscrew out a 1/4 turn, It has been working fine since, altough the mech said these boxes can not be adjusted for this condition.
 
btfarm said:
Tie rod tool (pickle fork)? Never pulled one so I don't know for sure if it's a tapered shaft deal...
Click to expand...

where there would typically be a bushing, there is a nut...and I don't know if I need to use that again. The damper didn't come with bolts - but I guess I can always go get another bolt...actually, I might have one left over from another truck...hm...
 
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