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Trouble Shooting my 6.5

W

William McNett

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Location
Adrian, MI 49221
I've had issues with this since I bought it last year. I'm about to buy a reman / new long block but I'll keep scratching my head. :mad2:

I've replaced the timing chain and sprockets last January and the CPS, New GP's, relayed the OPS, replace the LP, had the injectors tested, had the injection pump tested, rebuilt the turbo, eliminated the EGR, installed new 4" exhaust, new fuel filter, new HO water pump, fan clutch, Duramax 21" fan, I'm sure I'm forgetting stuff.

I've searched the net, found others with similar problems but have yet to find a solution to mine.

I thought I had somehow installed the pump off 1 tooth retarded because it ran great cranked about 5mm toward the drivers side but after tearing it apart that wasn't the case.

Just had the valve covers off to check out the rockers, ran a cold compression test, fuel PSI at the pump is hard to read while running (gauge jumps all over real fast) needs a snubber but there's about 11 psi when I shut it off.

I started thinking I had a cracked block, blown head gasket, cracked head but with the CPS unplugged I start thinking not.

Now I'm wondering if there's a key somewhere that's sheared, didn't notice anything when I replace the timing chain.

Just ordered a ACDelco CPS to replace the Standard one I bought last December.

Here's some videos for your viewing pleasure ;)

Cold Start
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oxV3MsLpwn0

Hot Start
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EGW_PLanHl8

Hot Start with CPS Unplugged
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m8bTcZv2kTc

Hot Start with Optical Sensor Unplugged
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UBYle_CB0Rw
 
So far I've had 2 friends ask if I've checked the sock in the tank, I guess as soon as I burn a few more gallons up I'll be dropping the tank to check for a lean condition.

Also going to look in the manual to see how to test the accelerator pedal.
 
there were no codes, I cleared the ones I made after I plugged the sensors back in. The was an EGR code months ago, before I pulled the injectors, IP, gutted the intake, but it was doing this and more before I started doing anything :???:
 
You just need to check the fuel pressure to see if that is your problem without dropping the tank.

Put a gauge at the t-valve as a diagnostic first.

Looks like you have been throwing parts at it and may want to check if those parts are performing as suppose to assuming that they are good because they are new?
 
William McNett said:
Just had the valve covers off to check out the rockers, ran a cold compression test, fuel PSI at the pump is hard to read while running (gauge jumps all over real fast) needs a snubber but there's about 11 psi when I shut it off.
Click to expand...

You have a rotary vane pump in the IP that moves fuel at a fixed rate with RPM. Now add the plunger type lift pump. Every time the pump cycles to fill itself the pressure will be zero for a moment. The zero pressure is made worse by the IP drawing fuel. This is why the gauge flickers.

The flutter can be made worse by a restriction in the fuel line. A clogged tank sock, kink hose, or plugged fuel filter before the gauge will make it flutter really badly. The unreadable pressure with the engine running may be telling you of a restriction. If you drop the tank don't put the sock back in. Use an external filter like the Walbro's have built in or a thread on prefilter.


Have you checked the return line for air? Step 1 in the GM diesel book after grounds is "Check for air". It is the #1 cause of hard starting.

Next what glow plugs are you using? 60G's and Duraterms although self limiting need more time to get as hot as the factory 9G plugs. The tune/glowplug timer usually isn't changed to reflect the updated plugs. Tunes are available to give it more glow time with great results. Again if you got air in the system it isn't going to start well period.
 
Is the bracket on he CPS firmly attached?

I had similar white smoke problems when the bracket on the CPS came off. It's press fitted on and I got it installed 180 opposite. Finally put a new one in the correct way and cleared it up.
 
Yes I checked for air in the return line off the IP, in the "about" under the 1st video I posted I mentioned that.
I have Duraterms but they don't glow once the hot engine is running, as in the 2nd video, when I tip in the throttle and blow white smoke at every intersection I have to stop it.
The shop I took my injectors and pump to said it should run great with the results they got off the test bench. Which I have a copy of but mean nothing to me
 
Unsure on the CPS, I installed a new Standard brand when I put the new timing chain and used cover on. Because someone must have had trouble getting one out. A chunk was busted out of the sensor bore inside, past the o-ring, and the bore was all chewed up like someone had big drill in there.

If and when I do drop the tank I'm installing new fuel lines.
http://www.linestogo.com/fl400-sd/
http://www.linestogo.com/fl397-b/
 
Not in a place I can watch videos.

The lines for timing sometimes mean something. Sometimes they are decoration. I have a DB2 rebuilt pump that likes to be advanced a lot in reference to the lines to clear white smoke. It runs well without white smoke so I leave it alone.

Have you run the TDC relearn?
 
How can I get more advance?

Yes, I ran TDC Time Set / Learn

Currently

INJECTION PUMP SENSORS
¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯
Actual injection pump timing: 27.54 Deg °
Cam reference missed: 0 Counts
Crank reference missed: 0 Counts
Fuel calibration: 125 Counts
Fuel rate: 8.44 mm³
Fuel rate - Cruise: 0 mm³
Fuel rate - Idle: 7.81 mm³
Fuel rate - Maximum transient: 42.5 mm³
Fuel rate - Throttle requested: 0 mm³
Injection pulse width: 1.96 ms
Injection timing - Measured: 5.9 Deg °
Injection timing - Desired: 5.9 Deg °
TDC offset: -1.76 Deg °

I think it's just a RETARDED pump. ;)

It runs much better if I crank the pump another 5mm (Measured 10+ Deg º) or so to the drivers side but I can't run TDC over there and the stepper is trying to retard it.
I'm about to pull the water pump off again, advance the pump 1 tooth, and set the timing again. :???:

If I unplug the engine coolant temperature sensor when it has some heat in it, I don't get the white smoke when I tip in the throttle.

I'm going to call the injection shop Monday and ask if there's anyway the key on the pump shaft could be sheared even though their test bench says it fine.
 
William McNett said:
Unsure on the CPS, I installed a new Standard brand when I put the new timing chain and used cover on. Because someone must have had trouble getting one out. A chunk was busted out of the sensor bore inside, past the o-ring, and the bore was all chewed up like someone had big drill in there.

If and when I do drop the tank I'm installing new fuel lines.
http://www.linestogo.com/fl400-sd/
http://www.linestogo.com/fl397-b/
Click to expand...

I'm thinking you've found your problem > CPS is not working/sensing properly due to the F'd up bore in the timing cover. Time to get a new timing cover.
 
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