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Trouble getting started after new injectors, and other................

Yachtcare

Yachtcare

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repairs.

How tuff is it to get them bled of air? Just keep it cranking til it fires? or is there a short cut, or something else that should be checked?

Truck is in the hands of a diesel "mechanic". When I happened by this afternoon to check on progress they were trying to get it started, had the batteries run low but put it on the start/boost to crank. While I was there, we had fuel to the FFM, finally got it to the return line at the front of the IP, but none at the injectors.

I had to stop him when he started trying a gasoline soaked rag over the intake, and then broke out the can of ether.

Things I checked. Function on FSO solenoid, connections on both ends of FSD harness, fuses under dash, lift pump operating, plenty of pressure and no air there, all harness connections appear to be plugged in.

The other repairs were for what turned out to be a broken spring on #3 exhaust valve. (never had a cylinder imbalance code) Both heads were pulled, checked, cleaned up, new glows, and injectors, and a new temp sender for good measure.

I want to get over there when he gets in at 9 am, with some more advice (unwanted by him, to be sure, but) I cant stand by and watch him thrash and trash my engine with ether, either. In his defense, he appears knowledgeable, and works on heavy and medium Diesels, but the 6.5 is obviously a bit of a mystery to him.

Thanks for any pointers.


YC.......
 
Until the first start cycle the glows will not cycle to full term. The drivers side injectors can be loosened to get fuel to the injectors. By loosened I mean just broke free.

If he is a diesel mechanic, he should know this.

He does have the pmd plugged in?
 
Tell'm next time he gets that ether can near that 6.5 truck you'll shove it were the sun doesn't shine and sue him for a motor.

That stuff is EVIL and deadly for a 6.5, He'll bend the rods and hurt your cold start capability (compression). These motors are not like a semi's. WD40 is the only 'stating aid' to use on a 6.5, but you MUST be careful with that. (potential run away / over rev if too much gets in the intake)


From your explanation sounds like they've done the normal bleeding steps.
The question is, why no fuel at the injector?
The PMD could be bad, or may not have power.
Recheck all the connections, especially the main harness to IP harness.
Double check grounds! Verify ground from device to block. (PMD, fuel shutoff, other sensors on the IP wiring loom)



Good luck.
 
LP is running you say!,..is it pumping though??
Bleeding the fuel system from the tank to getting fuel at the injectors and start to run should only take a minute or 2
 
On a 94, remember, the LP is run by OPS and there is no priming feature.
So, the LP may need a direct 12V source to keep it running till it can get to start.
Make sure they are pumping like Bison suggested.

Long cranking which needs 2 tip top shape batteries and good starter.
 
Show that mechanic THIS VIDEO and let him know ether damage will result in him replacing your engine at no charge...

there is an OPS bypass to rig the fuel pump to run for priming and such... I'll try and find it!
 
With the 95 you can have it in gear and the ignition in start to run the LP. I don't know if a 94 is the same.
 
vstech said:
Show that mechanic THIS VIDEO and let him know ether damage will result in him replacing your engine at no charge...

there is an OPS bypass to rig the fuel pump to run for priming and such... I'll try and find it!
Click to expand...

The precup damage in that clip was not the result of using ether.
I suspect the cups were too loose in the head from day one and danced around for a loooong time to have done that much wear.On the other head/side there's no damage at all. If ether was the culprit it would've been noticed on both sides
Ether use can and will cause damage when used in conjunction with glowplugs or intake heater. With the preheat disconnected there is no harm done to the engine when ether is used by some one who knows how to use it.
Exessive ether use can blow headgaskets,stretch bolts or bend rods and/or break starters/block mounting pads or mounting bolts,so best not to use it at all.

The 6.2 in my Waldon(push button glow system) has only 1 batt, has swallowed plenty cans of ether over the last 12 years,yet still starts with the glowers when i run out of ether.
I use mostly ether cause glow drains the batt down to fast and there's little juice left for starting.
 
There has been plenty of documented cases of ether damage in the 6.5.

If you want to use it in some quantity, that's your business.

As a rule, DO NOT USE ether in any indirect injection diesel. Especially one with a weak bottom end like the gm 6.2/6.5.

I've been close to using it. After 10 hour soak in sub zero weather, and spending 4 hours attempting to start it. Finally got an inverter to power the block heater.

I've sprayed plenty in direct injection engines, with weak pumps, and just cold weather. I've also vapor/hydro locked motors and blown head gaskets.
I won't use ether in a manifold injector, unless the crank is spinning.
 
I'd crack the lines at the injectors as stated above. It will answer the question of it being a fuel delivery problem at the injectors or further up the chain.
I remember Missy saying on her new engine builds, she'll pull the glows and spin the thing till diesel fumes fill the air before actually running the motor. That way she knows the air is out, the fuel is being delivered and a couple other unrelated to this issue benefits. The motors spin pretty fast with a few holes unplugged, don't ask how I know.:nonod:
 
Also, next time do one at a time then fire it up for about 10 seconds to bleed that one then go to the next.

As For you problem now sometimes the DS4 is a beeoutch to bleed. I've had to crank them til I thought the starter would die. Not all at one time, let the starter cool, but it was ALOT! of cranking before it started.
 
When I did the injectors I only spun mine a few times with the lines cracked, tightened them up, spun a few more times and it started. I think I did one bank at a time though and I probably didn't get as much air as you. The glowplug idea sounds promising. That would let you know that everything is working.

If it turns out that you are having difficulty priming the IP maybe a little 'extra' LP pressure would help. When I replaced my IP, LP, added fuel filter, etc. entire system was dry. I mildly overpressurized the fuel system with compressed air at the fuel cap with a rag and a blow gun. I did it in stages to make sure FFM was full & bled then sealed it and pushed to IP. Maybe it was a bad idea but it started right up.

Grasping at straws here but are you sure that the IP timing and valve timing are correct?

Good Luck!!
 
I only started after 4 passenger side. Then swapped the drivers side. Based on how easy it started I don't think it was necessary. I think there is something else going on.
 
Sorry guys, between the truck and work been tied down a bit.

Yes, It had been started by the time I got there the following morning which made me a bit uneasy since I wasnt there to see how they had managed it.

To answer a few questions from earlier. The lift pump is only a few months old, a Cummins upgrade pump, HPF 35, IIRC. Throws fuel out the bleeder like a mad dog. It is direct wired to the connector on the ALDL, so the OPS function is bypassed, makes bleeding (supposedly) easier.

First day back the truck ran great. The following morning it was a bit difficult to get started in the morning, and I noticed a small amount of fuel on the shop floor under the truck. They had left the engine bay so filthy I couldnt tell what was up. Cleaned everything up and the next morning was able to track the leak back to #3 injector (from the body itself), and appeared there was a bit seeping from the top of the nut on #1. Took it back over to him. Fixed. (Says he removed #3, and tightened the nozzle, retorqued the nut on top of #1)

Drove truck a bit parked it. Next morning #1, 3 and 5 are all leaking from the body of the injectors. All on the passenger side (thankfully) seem dry and tight. He has four new injectors ordered, supposedly to be in on Monday so he can replace all on the driver side again. Truck back in my hands until then.

The good.......all of my previous oil leaks from valve covers, and a minor one at the cooler lines seem to have vanished. YAY!
But, a new oil leak I tracked down to the drain tube from the turbo. I've pulled the pass side inner fender, so I can clean up my grounds, tackle a heater core replace, and can clearly see there is no gasket at the tube to turbo joint, so I guess I'll try fixing that with some black RTV while I'm in there.
 
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