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Transmission core
- Thread starter Stoney
- Start date
As am I . Maybe someone else will correct this . Really the 6.5 is a 396 or 7 so ...
Could also check the vin code . Should be an F for the diesel . Count across 8 spaces from the start . Should start with 1G1 , 2G1 , 3G1 or something like that . Sorry just reread your specs , should be the diesel .
Could also check the vin code . Should be an F for the diesel . Count across 8 spaces from the start . Should start with 1G1 , 2G1 , 3G1 or something like that . Sorry just reread your specs , should be the diesel .
Yep , 97 . Keep an eye on the brake codes when ordering parts . JD8 and JB8 makes a difference . Mine is a 91 Suburban which is technically a V 2500 squarebody . I also have an 86 CC dually and between the 2 it makes a difference when ordering brake parts .
MrMarty51
Well-Known Member
An idiot that My wifey insisted I help him get his truck figured out after he had it thoroughly messed up.
Someone had switched it from a 6.2 to a 350. Left the hydraboost system.
he figured the master went out. Got a new master and installed it.
Brakes was wonky. He went through gallons of brake fluid bleeding it out. Changing master cylinders.
I told him several times that he had been given a master for a vacuum boost but he kept exchanging for the gas master.
I finally removed the master. Called the parts house and a old GM guy was working.
Told him I needed a master for a 1984 chevy K1500 and a 6.2 diesel. Next day the master was here. Got it, sent the wrong one back for a core.
Installed the master and not another problem.
Parts man calls, Martin, this master is not the right one for the core charge. This is a master for a gas engine vacuum boost. I told Him, the right one had been sent in several months ago and he has been fighting with these vacuum boost masters ever since.
Told Him he was just going to have to make it work somehow. He responded, no problem.
Someone had switched it from a 6.2 to a 350. Left the hydraboost system.
he figured the master went out. Got a new master and installed it.
Brakes was wonky. He went through gallons of brake fluid bleeding it out. Changing master cylinders.
I told him several times that he had been given a master for a vacuum boost but he kept exchanging for the gas master.
I finally removed the master. Called the parts house and a old GM guy was working.
Told him I needed a master for a 1984 chevy K1500 and a 6.2 diesel. Next day the master was here. Got it, sent the wrong one back for a core.
Installed the master and not another problem.
Parts man calls, Martin, this master is not the right one for the core charge. This is a master for a gas engine vacuum boost. I told Him, the right one had been sent in several months ago and he has been fighting with these vacuum boost masters ever since.
Told Him he was just going to have to make it work somehow. He responded, no problem.
dbrannon79
I'm getting there!
@Stoney when you are using some of the online sites to decipher the vin some are not accurate. it would be best if your original glove box is not in the truck with the sticker, stop by a GM dealer and talk to the parts guy. ask for a print out of all the RPO codes on your truck. I had to do this and they gave me a print out of them with all their meanings. it has been very helpful when trying to get the correct parts. I had this very issue when I replace the brakes. the auto parts gave me a set of wheel cylinders for what they show for "SRW" but my truck has an odd GWVR of 9,000 lb. I actually needed the ones for a dually with the larger bore.
@Stoney I am used to SRW in 2500/3500's. You have a DRW, 6 tires, thus the higher 10,000 LB rating than the numbers I used. (There is a light duty 2500 6 lug that's no end of confusion. )
I believe the largest brakes were on the DRW pickups as far as wheel cylinder sizes for example. Some of the rear disc conversion threads or drum brake upgrade threads mention use of DRW parts.
I believe the largest brakes were on the DRW pickups as far as wheel cylinder sizes for example. Some of the rear disc conversion threads or drum brake upgrade threads mention use of DRW parts.
Ok so finally got spindle in (had to wait for a ride to get a tie rod end.) But it's in..put new Delco calipers on and new pads.. after bleeding them I tried turning the rotor.. it turned hard. But could turn it by hand..like brakes were dragging bad.. going to change the master cylinder tomorrow hopefully. And possibly the brake hoses if I feel extremely brave ( not sure if I dare) . (If I break one of the metal lines where they go in to the hoses I'm screwed..)... Took truck driving awhile , felt great for a lil bit but then started feeling the dragging effect I've spike about on and off.. so hopefully if I change m.c. and hoses we'll see if it helps
Are the rotors for the DRW thicker than SRW? Thus need calipers to accommodate the thicker rotor?
When turning the rotors by hand open the bleeder valve and leave it open as this eliminates the hydralic part of the brake system: are they still dragging? Yes: is a mechanical problem being too tight. No, close the bleeder valve as your problem is elsewhere.
You can also try to retract the calipers with a c-clamp with the bleeder open and see if that frees it up some. Again I am not clear on how much drag you are feeling and if you have the proper parts.
When turning the rotors by hand open the bleeder valve and leave it open as this eliminates the hydralic part of the brake system: are they still dragging? Yes: is a mechanical problem being too tight. No, close the bleeder valve as your problem is elsewhere.
You can also try to retract the calipers with a c-clamp with the bleeder open and see if that frees it up some. Again I am not clear on how much drag you are feeling and if you have the proper parts.
MrMarty51
Well-Known Member
With the bleeder opened up, can also use a smallish pry bar or prying device and pry between the caliper and the rotor and that will back off the piston some too. Just be careful You dont scar the rotor.
The concern here is rotors that are too thick and calipers that are 'too small' and possibly will not back off. So don't attempt to force it. It's more to double check you have the proper parts and not a hydraulic refusal to return fluid problem.
Unfortunately with as many cooks in the kitchen as he has had , you don't know what has been installed . If the brakes drag , crack the bleed screw like War has mentioned . Back off on the MC bolts to give you some clearance on the pushrod . Replace the front brake hoses as they can cause a restriction internally .
MrMarty51
Well-Known Member
I took that last series of numbers. 75273231 and crossed them to this. That seemed like a GM part number.
www.classicindustries.com
HB7307 - 1982-91 Chevrolet / GMC Truck Remanufactured Hydroboost
Hydro-boost power assist was introduced as an alternative to the vacuum booster. The hydro-boost uses the hydraulic pressure from the power steering system to provide the driver assist in applying the brakes. Features: O.E.