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Too Many Grounds?

There is an outfit that puts together U fix it kits for starters and alternators, since the parts stores dont stock squat these days, forget the name but I got one off ebay.
Hang in there. :thumbsup:
"Remember, I'm pulling for ya, we're all in this together." Red Green.
 
Had it professionally rebuilt and it fired up like a lion last night. Very happy. Every time I drove it today voltage dropped a little more. Not happy.
 
Do you still have the stock CS130 alt in there? I changed to a CS144 alt in my 94 and am very satisfied with it. The upper and rear mounts will have to be modded to make things work, but it was well worth the work. I now have better charging and a much steadier volt meter.

Don
 
It's an O'Reiley's special. Only place that had one in stock in a hurry back when it was needed. Unplugged the radio and alarm fuses last night and it was a fresh 14.5 this AM at start up. While driving to appointment in rush hour(25 miles) it dropped to 13.4 on occasion, but averaged 13.7 with radio fuse in. 14 volts after appointment with similar readings coming home. Obviously dropping as it gets warmer, but this could have been how it's done all this time. It became a problem so now the magnifying glass is out.
 
Awesome to hear she is all buttoned up and running well. Hopefully she will give you many years of great, trouble free service. Just remember. Everything is going to break at some point. Doesn't matter whether its a Honda, a Chevrolet, or a Mercedes-Benz.

Something to consider: The dash cluster "voltage gauge" is not always completly accurate. The gauge on my 98 is spot on all the time. The guage on my 95 likes to just roll a few dice and make up its own number :rofl: And I have confirmed on numerous occasions that it is in fact just the guage and not the system itself. Batteries sit at 12.45volts for days on there own, and sit around 13.8 to 14.2 at any given time the engine is running. Do you own a multimeter? That won't lie to you.
 
I just noticed high output kits like this one for the CS130D,
http://www.ebay.com/itm/High-Output-Alternator-Kit-GM-Delco-CS130D-180-Amp-/230329755353
come with a smaller pulley likely to help with low idle out put which I hear is a problem especially with the CS130 (no D).
So great and all, got a broke CS130? Throw in this kit with a bearing kit and you are good to go right?
BUT wont this small pulley (48 mm I think) throw off the tach?
If so :scratchchin:
 
Badaxe said:
View attachment 33170View attachment 33171
Click to expand...

The battery cable pictured here is internally corroded. It looks swollen, bent funny, like it is green inside. Get one of the stereo shop bolts for the battery that have a second bolt for wires to run to it. Maybe the not pictured kit already has this? Then run your alternator to it to help bypass the corroded mess. Or replace that cable.

ORileys is good about returning a CS130 to get a CS 144 in 124 or 140 amp versions. Flip the front bracket, add a spacer, and a rear support for the alternator. The CS130 is pushed to it's limits and runs at blow diode and fry rear bearing temperatures. I get better idle voltage from a 124 Amp CS144 the version Oriley's has in stock for 1998's. Yes use a 1998 on a 1995, 1994 etc. as it is a mod.

The other picture is a breaker. Likely for trailer plug, battery charge and 12V power for lights, jacks etc. Or it could be for all the stereo stuff.

Test voltages while the engine is running at the battery terminals. They should have the same voltage. This will expose bad connections, cables etc. Positive connections go bad too.

Check and make sure the rear bracket is on the starter - it is critical to not breaking the starter and block.
 
L98TPI said:
I just noticed high output kits like this one for the CS130D,
http://www.ebay.com/itm/High-Output-Alternator-Kit-GM-Delco-CS130D-180-Amp-/230329755353
come with a smaller pulley likely to help with low idle out put which I hear is a problem especially with the CS130 (no D).
So great and all, got a broke CS130? Throw in this kit with a bearing kit and you are good to go right?
BUT wont this small pulley (48 mm I think) throw off the tach?
If so :scratchchin:
Click to expand...

The smaller pulley WILL throw the tach off. Just get a digital Tiny Tach and get your readings off the injector lines. Much more accurate, and only about $100. Go to tinytach(dot)com, click on tiny tach in the left column, then click on diesel tach.

Don
 
Grounds, grounds, grounds gotta check them grounds! When bored n wanting to work on ur truck just grab some wire and put more grounds on. Believe ur friends here, u cant have too many or clean enough grounds pardner. I finally learned bout them grounds but could someone clue me in about that woodchuck chuckin wood thing?
 
Warwagon, all of those cables have been replaced with the PT wiring kit.
Upon further review everything is working just right. Love the way it is running with all the recent upgrades/repairs. With all of the recent financial stress it caused I did promise the wife that it would be offered for sale. So it's here, on the "other site", and Denver Craigslist. Obviously at this point it should run another 100K without problems, but if there is someone who wants it more than me then so be it.
 
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