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Too Many Grounds?

Well it fired up finally. :thumbsup: Rebuilt every ground I could find and the new IP is working good.
 
Thats awesome! Now you can drive by that civic(trade in) and wave!

I have done some testing on some *ricers*. But the ricers I do seldom play with are Nissan Zs. I heard about putting extra grounding cables around the engine bays and actually getting more power! I tried it with dyno results to prove it! Someone above said it smooths out the signal from the sensors? That would explain it!

So glad your rollin again!
 
Short lived victory. After driving around for about half an hour, stopped at the grocery store, and when I came out It gave half an attempt at starting. Second try would barely turn engine. So there it sits. The voltage while driving was about 12.5(per fancy stereo feature), historically the voltage has sat at 14(per the dash gauge) for the past two years. But on the day it died it was pushing noticeably over 14 in the morning, started reluctantly a couple hours later but was sitting below 14 (that's when I went to the radio feature) stereo showed 12.6 to 13.5 depending on speed. Batteries and alternator will all get replaced under warranty. After that who knows.
 
Do you have a new and improved hot wire from the alternator? Or an extra positive going to the other battery? The OEM wires are undersized and I've never seen one of any age that didn't have some heat damage.

You can put 2 OEM wires on the Alternator stud and still use the OEM rubber boot.
 
All the engine sensors and actuators ground directly to the engine block, (back passenger side of the manifold.) There are about 4 or 5 of these grounds. Any one of the these can stop the engine if they break.
Click to expand...

Truth here, but looks like you got past that issue.

Sounds like you have an alternator issue at this point.

Google the term "big 3", maybe a youtube video will pop up. Essentailly you want excellent wires from the battery to ground(s) and alternator. I put an extra ground between the battery and frame rail on both sides. + the stock battery grounds to engine block.

I do not think the ground from the alt to small fender ground is helping anything at all. The alt is naturally grounded to the block.

If I remember tonight maybe I can take some pictures of my upgraded cable setup.

Good luck! At least you know it isn't the PMD or ECU!!!
 
All the engine sensors and actuators ground directly to the engine block, (back passenger side of the manifold.) There are about 4 or 5 of these grounds. Any one of the these can stop the engine if they break.
Click to expand...

Truth here, but looks like you got past that issue.

Sounds like you have an alternator issue at this point.

Google the term "big 3", maybe a youtube video will pop up. Essentailly you want excellent wires from the battery to ground(s) and alternator. I put an extra ground between the battery and frame rail on both sides. + the stock battery grounds to engine block.

I do not think the ground from the alt to small fender ground is helping anything at all. The alt is naturally grounded to the block.

If I remember tonight maybe I can take some pictures of my upgraded cable setup.

Good luck! At least you know it isn't the PMD or ECU!!!
 
jrsavoie said:
Do you have a new and improved hot wire from the alternator? Or an extra positive going to the other battery? The OEM wires are undersized and I've never seen one of any age that didn't have some heat damage.

You can put 2 OEM wires on the Alternator stud and still use the OEM rubber boot.
Click to expand...

Hes got one of my kits, They cover pretty much everthing
 
Well new batteries and alternator and it just clicks. ticktickticktick :mad2: Thought it would fire right up, but nope.

Funny or frustratingly enough...........while on the way to replace batteries, sitting at a stop light, the lady in the car behind me gets out and starts walking my direction. She stops at the rear of the van, bends over, and picks up the lens to my tail light. Comes to the door "here this just fell off your van." Had to laugh, but must admit I'm glad it didn't happen after the truck failing to start. Reaction would be a little different.
 
Did you load test the batteries?

I've gotten new bad batteries several times in the past several years. It stymies the diagnosing process til you finally decide to load test them. You just don't expect a brand new part to be toast.

Sounds like it could be bad batteries, a bad connection, starter or bad starter shim job
 
I am questioning the starter at this point namely the solenoid! I couldnt find your original thread from when you was waiting for a tow but that's what I would check next.
 
Can't spend $300 on the chance it might be a starter and that not be the problem. Don't have the $300 anyway.
 
So test it. Cut up some old cables and make a short harness to use beside the truck. Start it on the normal set up and get it warm. Or just pour cold water on the starter when its hot! Something has to be better than selling when your this close! I have used the water trick to get home! If it starts at home with hot batteries and doesnt down the road you are either having the Alt dis-charge or the starter is fried! 2 hot batteries wont run that far down in a half hour of normal running. I drove my 93 50 miles home the hard way with no alternator belt! Starting it and shooting up the hills and shutting it off and coasting as far as possible. Took 2 hours and countless starts. Bout fried that turbo-ed 6.2! Got home at 3 AM so yes I was running headlights!
 
Badaxe said:
Short lived victory. After driving around for about half an hour, stopped at the grocery store, and when I came out It gave half an attempt at starting. Second try would barely turn engine. So there it sits. The voltage while driving was about 12.5(per fancy stereo feature), historically the voltage has sat at 14(per the dash gauge) for the past two years. But on the day it died it was pushing noticeably over 14 in the morning, started reluctantly a couple hours later but was sitting below 14 (that's when I went to the radio feature) stereo showed 12.6 to 13.5 depending on speed. Batteries and alternator will all get replaced under warranty. After that who knows.
Click to expand...

I'm with CountryBoy69 on this one in questioning the starter. Based on what your saying above, this seems like a heat soak problem (I.E: only showing up after the engine has time to build up some heat) Starter kicks over "okay" when its been sitting and cold, but get it up to around 180*F and the clearances internally grow to far apart to get the starter to spin effectively. I'm pretty confident in saying that the problem here more than likely is not ground related. Especially given the fact that you are running one of the PT wiring solutions kits.

Lets not risk having the truck die in another parking lot. Disconnect the battery, and remove the starter from the truck. There are 2 bolts that go straight up into the block that have a knurl on the end of them to help prevent them from backing out over time. Than there is the reinforcement bracket on the backside of the starter housing that bolts to the block(you can get to this from the passenger inner fenderwell by removing the flap that snaps too it.) To avoid hurting yourself(it is rather bulky), remove the electrical from the starter, than remove the reinforcement bracket. Than remove the knurled bolts going straight up into the block.

You can take the starter to autozone and they will test it there. Have them test it multiple times to make sure this is the problem.
 
Not giving in to a 4 cylinder car yet. If I can find a way to get starter done cheap I will, so it comes out Tues when I get off work.
 
Good to hear. Just so you know- here is an outstanding thread from our very own BISON that goes over the complete procedure on what it takes to rebuild your starter right at home:
http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/showthread.php?27405-6.2-6.5-How-to-rebuild-your-Starter

Like anything else the you don't have to pay yourself to rebuild your own starter, all it takes is time. Just buy the parts needed for the rebuild. So read through the above thread, and see if this is something you think you can tackle in your garage at home :thumbsup: Even if you run into trouble, give us enough pictures and a description and I'm sure we can help you through it.
 
Well the starter is shot, so getting it rebuilt. Still might be for sale when all is said and done.
 
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