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Tips on changing glow plugs

Michaeljp86

Michaeljp86

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My glow plugs should be here in a few days. Anyone have a tips or tricks? I sprayed some PB on them today, well the ones I could see.
 
drivers side is easy front pass side is also, middle 2 take off the wheel and do from wheel well. remove the heat shields if possible. last one is the hardest not sure if it's easier from above or below but it's mostly a exercise in braille
 
Deep Socket (10mm IIRC) 1/4 drive if possible.
Needle Nose Pliers for disconnecting #4 and #6 wires (passenger side) from the GP Blades and then reconnecting them.
#8 comes out real easy if you go through the trouble of removing the down pipe from the turbo.
Good time to upgrade to a new GP harness from Raceday if that's in the budget.
 
I am anal enough about wheel torque that I usually end up running around without center caps and re-torque a few times after I pull a wheel off, so thats a PITA. plus our shops such a mess that you can usually get a long skinny bay opened up, so working on the side is difficult, so I was very pleased at how well the turbo pulling went. except I tore the gasket for the drain tube. made a real crappy one from gasket paper, its holding.

by pulling the turbo everything stays put in the fender area, and you can upgrade to a GM8 or ATT or whatever floats your boat at the time. or exhaust too.

when you pull the turbo you pull the heatshield and thats about it. jack up the exhaust to get to number 6 glowplug, and go underneath and do number 8 GP by braille. all injectors are done up above. I am glad I listened to other wiser folk here and did both the GPs and injectors at the same time. mine was leaving fine rust powder in the injector threads, and I felt I got alot more of it out by being able to use the GP hole for another blowing location.

also, the handly little Kent moore GP connector tool works very slick on #4 and #6 GPs.

Anti-seize isnt exactly cheap, but it is the best purchase a guy can make. makes removal of parts much easier, and I dope up wheel studs sparingly to make the hardware last longer, as well as make the nuts glide on the alloy wheels to prevent it from digging at the wheel. you wont ever run out of uses for it. We even use it for pintle hooks and trailer balls, as it doesnt attract dirt nearly as bad as grease.

good luck!
 
I use about a 1" hole saw. Eyeball where to make the hole in inner fender. Then use about 3-4' of extensions to reach GP.
Plastic plug to fill hole when done.
 
Looks like you have the upgraded Down Pipe, you may need to take off the fender well on passenger side.

I know you cannot do it from the bottom. Some can do it by just removing the flapper but not me.
It only takes about 15 more minutes.

Then just loosen the clamp to the down pipe to get some wiggle room for the GP right behind it.
Last one is piece of cake once you take off the fender.
 
Before removing those glows, I drove the truck hard for a few miles to really heat up the engine. A short prayer, then got to it. Never had a problem. I also used anti-sieze when installing new ones. Good luck.
 
I got the right wheel off and the down pipe and soaked everything in PB and the in WD40. Ill go soak it again later. Ive had good luck using PB then following it with WD. I think the PB help pull in the WD.

I pulled one easy to get glow plug out. It came out pretty easy.
 
IIRC, the Bosch GPs uses 10mm socket while the Delco uses 3/8" socket.

So, out with 3/8" and in with 10mm, assuming you have new Bosch.
If not, then it will be easier.
 
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