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"TIMING HELP"

zippy555

New Member
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ASUMMING THAT THERE IS NO DOWLS OR TIMMING MARKS ON ANY OF THE SPROKETS. WHAT POSITION SHOULD THE CRANK AND CAM SPROKET "KEYS" BE IN AT AN NEW INSTALL OF TIMMING SETS?
 
I'm almost sure theiir is a manual in the stickys, same as I copied this from, it has pics too...

Camshaft and Injection Pump Timing Check
1. Rotate the crankshaft to the 0 degrees TDC position.
2. Remove the oil fill pipe and grommet.
3. Inspect the position on the injection pump driven gear:
• If the alignment slot is at the 6 o’clock position, go to step 4.
• If the alignment slot is at the 12 o’clock position, rotate the crankshaft one revolution and go to step 4.
4. Remove the water pump assembly.
5. Inspect that the alignment marks of the injection pump drive and driven gears are next to each other (see
Figure 2-41, view A).
6. Remove the injection pump driven gear from the drive shaft of the injection pump.
7. Rotate the crankshaft one revolution (in a clockwise direction) to the 0 degrees TDC position and remove the
torsional damper and front cover.
8. Remove the injection pump drive gear from the front of the camshaft.
9. Inspect that the aliqnment marks of the crankshaft and camshaft sprockets are next to each other (see Figure
2-41, view B).
10. Check the tension of the timing chain:
• Install a dial indicator so that its plunger tip contacts the outside of the timing chain at a midpoint between
the crankshaft and camshaft sprockets on the right side of the engine.
• At the location of the dial indicator plunger contact, move the timing chain toward the center of the engine
and align the dial indicator needle with zero (see Figure 2-42, view A).
• Move the timing chain away from the center of the engine and observe the total dial indicator needle travel
(see Figure 2-42, view B):
- If measured travel is within the following specifications, go to step 10:
- Less than 12.7 mm (0.500 in.) for a new chain
- Less than 20.3 mm (0.800 in.) for a used chain
- If measured travel is not within the specifications, replace the timing chain and sprockets.
 
Timing this motor is almost dummy proof, simply follow the instructions as written... the # 1 piston will be at the top and mark on the crank gear will be @ 12.... turn the cam till the mark on the cam gear is @ 6.... follow the instructions for the IP gears and you can't go wrong...
 
well I apprteciate your input BUT if there are NO marks on any sproket or gears how would the KEY ways line up with the crank and camshaft? Please understand my Question !!!!!., " If ther are "NOT ANY TIMMING MARKS" on any GEARS OR sprockets, wat is the corrcet "KEY"/WOODRUFF" KeY Positing FOR THE CRANK AND CAM. THIS IS A INTERFERANANCE ENGINE AND U JUST CANT ROTATE THE CAMSHAFT WITHOUT ROATATING THE CRANKSHAFT WHILE THE HEADS R ON WITHOUT BENDING VALVES...
 
Are the gears on backwards where the timing marks are on the back side?
I don’t think a person could accurately time based on that because there isn’t a setting reference point.

It’s kinda like if someone spray painted all my car windows black, what’s another way of knowing I am driving in my lane... when you damage something, you know it’s wrong, but knowing what’s exactly right- I cant see how you would know.
 
so the question I still have is " HOW TO ALLING THE CRANK AND CAM KEY WAYS TO THE CORRECT POSITION BASED ON THE WOODRUFF KEY POSITIONS ONLY? IF I WAS TO BE THE ONE TO STAMP THE TIMMING MARKS ON THE GEARS ,HOW WOULD I KNOW THAT THEY ARE IN THE CORRECT6 DEGREE POSITION BASED ON THE WOODRUFF KEYS?
 
On you other post you said there are "0" so there is or not?
THERE ARE MARKS ON THGE GEARS MY PROBLEM IS SOME ONE HAD STOLE MY INJECTION PUMP BEFORE IT WAS INSTALLED, TAKING THE GEARS FROM MY ENGINE WHAEN THEY GOT THE PUMP. SO I HAVE GOT USED GEARS FROM THE SALVAGE YARD AND I CANT GAET THE TIMMING RIGHT BASED ON THESE DIIFERENT GEARS WITH DIFFERANT PUMP. I SEEMS ITS FIRING ON THE EXHAUST STROKE WITH HEAVY SMOKE COMMING OUT BOTH INTAKE AND EXHAUST WHILE ITS POPING AND RUNING. . I NEVER ROTATED THE CAMSHAFT WITH CHAIN DISSCONECT . DOING SO WOULD ONLY BE POSSABLE IF THE HEADS WERE OFF. I DID THE HEAD REPLACEMENT FIRST AND HAVING TO LEAVE IT FOR A FEW WEEKS IS WHEN I RETURNED TO THE BRAND NEW PUMP THAT WAS DELIVERED WAS TAKEN AND THE GEARS THAT WERE SITTING NEXT TO THE ENGINE WAITING FOR ME TO INSTALL THE NEW PARTS ALSO.WHILE THE HEADS WERE OFF BUT WHEN THE PARTS AND PUMP WERE ROBBED THEY MUST HAVE ROATED MY CAMSHAFT TO TAKE THE PUMP DRIVE CAM GEAR. . SO IF IM 180 OUT AT THE CAM WHEN AT TOPDEAD CENTERT THEN I GUESS I HAVE TO REMOVE VALVE COVERS AGAIN REMOVE LIFTERS AND PULL OUT THE CAM AND INSTALL IT BACK IN THE CORRECT POSITION. BUT I CANT RELY ON THE MARKS ON THE SALVAGE GEARS SO I NEED TO TIME IT FOR MARKS MYSELF ASSUMINBG ITS EVEN THE CORRECT CAM ANYMORE AT THIS POINT
 
Yeah, in that case:
Pull glow plugs. Pull timing gears. Pull the valve covers. Pull rocker arms. Set crank to #1 TDC. Set cam to #1 TDC. Reinstall rocker arms. Install timing gears and chain. (Follow instructions given on other your thread) Do full dry compression test and full leak down test.

If someone spun you camshaft 180 and you were running engine and no damage suffered- great. This is the only way you will know.

As to where should the keyways be, none of us have an engine apart/ together that far currently to post a pic. Sure as hell wouldn’t show that info with something like worn chain or worn gears because that along with trying to match the key ways to something- would be super easy to get 1 tooth off. And that will surely cause damage. If exactly 180 out- everything clears.

I understand a pain, but you need to prove 100% they are proper because you might have bent valves now. Not doing those test is the only way to verify.

Zippy, one request. Please don’t do all caps and huge paragraphs. Trying to follow mechanical thoughts and being hard to read becomes more difficult to help you.
 
Have You removed the timing sprocket/chain cover ?
Why not remkve the rocker arms, spin cam and crank to proper positions then install sprockets and chain and work outwards from there.
 
You don't need to remove all the parts . 90 degree crank and #1 on TDC , rotate about 45 degrees and the pistons should be down in the bores enough to rotate the cam if needed .
 
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