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Thermocouple install question

great white

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So, I've got my guage and I've got my thermocouple.

I want to install it in the crossover pipe.

Do I need to have a bung installed or can I just drill and tap for my 1/8 pipe thread fitting?

Anyone done it before?

:confused:


(I just don't feel like welding overhead right now....I always get burnt somewhere...)
 
You will need a bung for the Thermal Couple if it's going in the x over.
 
What Leo said. The crossover material is too soft and thin to hold threads. It'll rust out and you'll be peeved...

You might want to think about drilling into the passenger-side exhaust manifold, right on the boss before the turbo. Lasts forever, gives a nice pre-turbo EGT reading.
 
What Leo said. The crossover material is too soft and thin to hold threads. It'll rust out and you'll be peeved...

You might want to think about drilling into the passenger-side exhaust manifold, right on the boss before the turbo. Lasts forever, gives a nice pre-turbo EGT reading.

My understanding is that Bill heath recommends the cross over pipe for more accurate readings.

Guess I'll go spark up the grinder and mig.....

:mad2:
 
My understanding is that Bill heath recommends the cross over pipe for more accurate readings.

Guess I'll go spark up the grinder and mig.....

:mad2:

The range of error is really not that far out, I run mine in the pass side manifold just below the turbo, tapped next to it is my turbo drive gas pressure sensing point, not best accuracy I should install a "rake probe" so it isn't so variable to the pressure pulses, but close enough to sense variations to changes in drive pressure
 
Since I have injectors and glow plugs on the way, I've decided to just wait and and pull the turbo. I'll just do it at once and I'll tap the Thermocouple in the manifold...
 
Since I have injectors and glow plugs on the way, I've decided to just wait and and pull the turbo. I'll just do it at once and I'll tap the Thermocouple in the manifold...

Good idea... there's a square boss ont he passenger exhaust manifold, just forward of the turbo... it's dirt simple to get at with the fender-well removed.

Personally, I would change the passenger-side glows/injectors first, by pulling the inner fender and the turbo. I'd drill the hole after I put the injectors/glows in and put the turbo back on... you want the truck to be running while you do it. Use lots of oil on the bit, drill your way in, then a little grease on the bit through the last little bit of metal will collect all the shavings so they don't go inside. Wear safety glasses - the exhaust pressure will blow the shavings out the hole at you!

Then shut her down, let it cool, and tap the hole for the thermocouple. Put things back together and you're all done that side.

Do the Driver's side injectors/glows last - they're a piece of pie after the Passenger side... and doing one side at a time lets you get the air out of the lines by running the engine in between disassembling...
 
Good idea... there's a square boss ont he passenger exhaust manifold, just forward of the turbo... it's dirt simple to get at with the fender-well removed.

Personally, I would change the passenger-side glows/injectors first, by pulling the inner fender and the turbo. I'd drill the hole after I put the injectors/glows in and put the turbo back on... you want the truck to be running while you do it. Use lots of oil on the bit, drill your way in, then a little grease on the bit through the last little bit of metal will collect all the shavings so they don't go inside. Wear safety glasses - the exhaust pressure will blow the shavings out the hole at you!

Then shut her down, let it cool, and tap the hole for the thermocouple. Put things back together and you're all done that side.

Do the Driver's side injectors/glows last - they're a piece of pie after the Passenger side... and doing one side at a time lets you get the air out of the lines by running the engine in between disassembling...

When I drill manifolds in place, I stuff the ports with rags and drop a high powered magnet just below the drill point. I tap with grease to catch the final bits of swarf.

i finish up with a quick boroscope to make sure it's all neat an tidy.

Easier. neater and less risk.

Plus, I don't have to work on a running engine.....
 
:D Oh yeah, I forgot... you have tools! When I did mine, I had to run to Canadian Tire to buy a bit and tap. I already had the 30-yr-old Black and Decker drill...
 
:D Oh yeah, I forgot... you have tools! When I did mine, I had to run to Canadian Tire to buy a bit and tap. I already had the 30-yr-old Black and Decker drill...

Meh,you could borrow mine if we were closer....but there's some pretty big rocks in the way!

Nothing wrong with the older tools, they're usually much better quality than what you buy today.....
 
When I drill manifolds in place, I stuff the ports with rags and drop a high powered magnet just below the drill point. I tap with grease to catch the final bits of swarf.

i finish up with a quick boroscope to make sure it's all neat an tidy.

Easier. neater and less risk.

Plus, I don't have to work on a running engine.....

One thing not to do, start the truck with the turbo off with hopes of letting exhaust blow out any residual chips shop vac might have missed, precautions above are sufficient, that turbo feed line sure does make a mess if it jumps out of the turbo drain return line getting under hood & the red VW TDI parked next to it (wife's :eek:) soaked with oil, don't ask how I know this :mad2: I drill now with them running it's way easier
 
One thing not to do, start the truck with the turbo off with hopes of letting exhaust blow out any residual chips shop vac might have missed, precautions above are sufficient, that turbo feed line sure does make a mess if it jumps out of the turbo drain return line getting under hood & the red VW TDI parked next to it (wife's :eek:) soaked with oil, don't ask how I know this :mad2: I drill now with them running it's way easier

Lawl!

I always take things apart to do such work. I'm the guy that gets "burnt" if I don't do it the long way (proper way some may say) the first time around...like a piece of swarf would score or jam the turbine....

It's just my Karma I guess....
 
The risk is possible for sure 100% safe is tear it down, but @ idle power the risk is very low, even if chips (swarf to coin your phrase, speak English oh you are :D Brits I've worked with call it that also) happened they would be small.

As we saw in Hank's turbo photo, the turbine section is pretty robust, and I'm confident the minor chips/dust if any survived would pass easily, Iv'e seen gas turbines digest much larger/harder stuff at much higer speeds and survive it.

When I drill it is on a cold manifold, sharp bit, dipped in grease to grab the chips/dust, I use the letter drill size called for to match the tap so I'm not chipping the metal when I shutdown the engine and tap the threads.

http://icrank.com/cgi-bin/pageman/pageout.cgi?path=/chart_npt.htm&t=2

And "kids before trying at home" :D eye protection is required.
 
Swarf is a term I use when working in the machine shop and I was introduced to in when I took my tool and die machinist course...

1st time I heard it used I was working with some guys in the UK, in both England & Ireland, then again when I was working in Australia so I knew what it was, but did not realize it was also used it Canada, as until you typed it I had never heard it used there.

Is is a somewhat regional or trade term, I don't recall the millwrights/machinists using it in at the Nova Corp turbine shop in Calgary, on the TCPL in Regina/MooseJaw, or in the naval yard in Halifax, but it's also been a while I may have heard it at those spots, but I remember being with folks that use "the Queens English" across the pond as being the 1st time I was exposed to it.
 
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