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temp gage rising

qak

qak

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Location
topeka
Im new here and have a little background for you. I have a 1995 k3500, been driving it for a couple of weeks. Paid about 1000 for it with the enduro trade and 650 cash. It didnt run but the guy said it would and then shut off, didnt run for about a year. It had a replaced pmd and cooler that was new but he said that wasnt it. I looked it over really good and saw that the lift pump looked original, and did my research for about a week on this great site! I figured that id need at least a new lift pump if not an ip, so we started it and it died before replacing any parts to make sure everything sounded good and it had good oil pressure.

Actually we just wanted to crank it but it went ahead and started on us anyway lol. Well i thought the pickup might be clogged so we lifted the bed and replaced that, wow you wouldnt believe what we found. The baffle was off its stands and the pickup was broken and also the float rod was bent! New lift pump and now nice new fuel comes out of the t fitting at front of engine. The only issue im having now is tonight when driving it home the temp gage rose from its normal 190 to 260 and the dash showed check gages........

Am i having an overheating problem, or is the gauge screwing up? Will the dash show over temp with a light as well as a gauge for temp? I dont want to screw her up! Please chime in and help me if you can, thanks alot.....chris
 
The plastic tank is an integral part of the cooling system, not a burp bottle like on the GMT400 gassers, so make sure that the coolant level is in its proper place in the bottle. also, doe the low coolant light come on during the lamp check at the first key turn? if not, you may have a bad bulb. also, do you have coolant coming out of the air bleed screw on the coolant crossover?

what the above members have posted is far more important to do, as they are more likely to be the problem, but I figured I would chime in with some possible helpful tidbits!

oh, and welcome fellow Kansan! dont get over to Topeka often, but if you need someone to drink your beer and hand you wrenches, I will see what I can do. might be over in that side of the state picking up a flatbed from Circle D at hillsboro.
 
When I change my oil during start up after oil fill there is no oil pressure for a bit. The check guages light comes on until the guage registers some oil pressure. So if the guage hits 260 then the check guages light probably would come on. But if it does that is way too hot for the 6.5 and is more or less a useless backup/warning light as the engine is too hot. Many believe 220F is max sustained ECT for engine longevity.

I am not sure if the ECM turns on the check guage light or if the guages themselves do it somehow.

Sounds like a stuck stat if it just climbed up temp without any real reason over a short time but seems to track temp.
 
thanks for the replies, ill change the stat to the gm one. Also check all the grounds, it did sit for a year so maybe thats why if it is sticking. I do find it hard to believe it is sticking with it working so well for two weeks but i suppose anything is possible. The low coolant light does light up on key on, and the coolant bottle is full and i did burp it after adding two gallons before my initial start. Dont know why it was two gallons low? It was a sealed system when i picked it up and have noticed no leaks or burning of coolant. I really hope its simple as a stat or grounds! Cant afford much now and i really need this thing to be reliable for me. Again thanks for the help!
 
When the needle goes over 210 SHUT IT DOWN!!! Any hotter and you are cracking heads to scuffing pistons. Been there done that and have the scrap metal receipt for what used to be a 6.5 engine. So no, if's, and's, or but it will make another block... Shut it down and see what is up. These engines have a narrow operating temperature range and do not forgive like a gas engine will. Overheated doesn't just take out head gaskets - it takes out heads and more!

In checking over your truck you need to clean the radiators including moving the oil cooler away from the condenser to clean the mat out from behind the cooler. Fan clutch will be shot if it is over 5 years old, likely the original, and may not even try and work. A better fan and fan clutch should be obtained like a 9 blade 20" steel or 21" Duramax fan with a 4 bolt fan attachment. The 6 blade 6 bolt fan is scrap metal and simply isn't up to the job as GM found out in later years.

Look for pinhole leaks in the radiator - the fan will make quick work of any small leaks and you will not see a drip.

Water pumps also leak and then seal back up - check the weep holes for recent activity.
 
Thanks for the tips. I cleaned all the grounds, checked wiring, and it still wanted to heat up.
Replaced thermostat and now it warms right up to just under 200 and stays there. It was some kind of
crappy weird one with a cover of rubber on the bottom of it. Well it actually had come off the bottom of it
and was laying under the stat in the hole! . Im really concerned that I did some damage to her. But it
didnt stay hot for more than 5-10 seconds before cooling right down. Think im ok,???? Thanks again
For all the help.
 
did you overheat it idling or just putting around, or were you thundering down the highway? the lighter the engine load, the better chance of survival.
 
Ok is defined as no combustion pressure/gas in the cooling system.

See how fast the upper radiator hose gets hard after startup. If it does so quickly you have problems. Check for coolant puking out the overflow. (Also bad radiator caps, weak, can allow coolant to puke at the proper temp.)

I would recommend an oil change soon depending on how long and how hot it got. Overheating ruins oil quickly.
 
gm guy, it was on the highway, 60 mph. It rose up to 250 or so then right back down twice. Hopefully it didnt do any damage for that little time.

warwagon, ill check the upper hose this morning. also change the oil. THANKS
 
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