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TDCO learn

bigdaddyinacaddy

bigdaddyinacaddy

Obsessed
Messages
120
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2
Location
Jena, LA
Hey guys I'm new to the truck stop, but have been filling my brain with the endless knowledge that is here for a while now and first off I would like to say if it wasn't for this forum and a few others I would be completely lost as far as my truck is concerned!

This may be a dumb question, but is there anyway to force a TDCO learn without a tech2 or gmtdscan? Reason being, I just got a chip from Heath about a month ago and when I first put it in, man it was fast, but now I guess it has "settled in" and it doesn't seem as peppy.

Also, going by my sig, what's next for me power-wise? My motor is in good shape with very little blowby, and has been well taken care of in its 18-19 years of being "alive". That being said, I'm just unsure if I'm asking too much from such an old piece of metal lol

Thanks in advance, really lookin forward to joining the conversations!
 
Welcome to the forum! I'm on and off of here, depending on what's going on with my vehicle and how much I'm missing my peers/friends on here.

I looked over your sig and it looks like you've got some nice upgrades. (I don't have a 6.5TD anymore, so I'm sure I'll be corrected by the other guys when I get something wrong.) Has your PMD been relocated away from the injection pump? Most popular place seems to be in the front bumper. Also, a coolant flush is recommended along with a lower stat - which I see you have dual stats (and lower -good-better than what I had). And an after market oil cooler and lines if yours are leaking. (And...I'm stuck there.)

Welcome again!
 
Some Additional Needs:
Duramax fan plus HD fan clutch
ATT turbo
Stainless oil cooler lines
Walbro FRC-10 lift pump
K47 airbox
 
you can do a TDCO learn by doing th KOKO method. but with out a scanner that will at least read the value your just guessing where your putting it.
 
Treegump, nice dmax, and my pmd is behind my grille in front of the rad. on passenger side. An uncommon place to put it, but it has worked well for me.

Leroy, you sold me the extension cable that made that possible lol and I have 4" exhaust already. I might be in touch with you soon to order one of those FRC-10's.

Big T, thanks for the suggestions. Some of those I had forgotten.. Except the ATT, which i want real bad but I'm torn over. I've read it is more for towing, which I hardly ever do unless its a 16ft bass boat. So I'm not sure whether to go with it or a holset. Also, I noticed me and your son almost have the same mods. I even had to rebuild my front end about 6 months ago, already need new ball joints :/

NVW, I figured so. I've been wanting gmtdscan for a while just so I can keep an eye on things. Gauges spoiled me!

Thanks everyone for the warm welcome, I will have plenty more questions soon probably, my truck needs some r&r after a cold wet winter!
 
I wouldn't say the ATT is just for towing. I bet you would see an increase in fuel mileage and power with it. For the cost its the best bolt on option out there.

Im running a small Holset and notice a big difference, i bet i could break 20 mpg with an ATT and my combination.

Looks like your off to a good start in the modification department!
 
DieselSlug said:
I wouldn't say the ATT is just for towing. I bet you would see an increase in fuel mileage and power with it. For the cost its the best bolt on option out there.

Im running a small Holset and notice a big difference, i bet i could break 20 mpg with an ATT and my combination.

Looks like your off to a good start in the modification department!
Click to expand...

I think the most overlooked benefit of the ATT is the significant reduction in exhaust back pressure, which results in substantially less heat build up in the engine. A cooler running 6.5 has a lot more longevity than one that runs hot. Also, the stock turbo set-up would automatically defuel (throttle you back) when the intake air temperature exceeded threshholds, so that portion of the engine performance was never available to you. The better tune makes up for any low end loss due to the larger ATT and you get all the upside on the high end that you never had with the GM Turbo. War Wagon's dyno tests substantiates this and show that the ATT delivers all the performance of the Holset HX 40, without the high boost and heat delivered by the HX 40.
 
Big T said:
I think the most overlooked benefit of the ATT is the significant reduction in exhaust back pressure, which results in substantially less heat build up in the engine. A cooler running 6.5 has a lot more longevity than one that runs hot. Also, the stock turbo set-up would automatically defuel (throttle you back) when the intake air temperature exceeded threshholds, so that portion of the engine performance was never available to you. The better tune makes up for any low end loss due to the larger ATT and you get all the upside on the high end that you never had with the GM Turbo. War Wagon's dyno tests substantiates this and show that the ATT delivers all the performance of the Holset HX 40, without the high boost and heat delivered by the HX 40.
Click to expand...

Ok, ok, you talked me into it lol. Been tryin to talk the wife into it for about 2 months now, to no avail. Somehow compressor maps and live monitoring data don't mean jack squat to her... LOL guess I will have to try harder. Money is not the issue here. It's just "in this economy" I can't really justify sinking gwobs of cash into something I only paid $3500 for, or so she says. The way I see it, if we woulda got that duramax I really wanted but didn't need, we'd be out a lot more money than we are now. And like my sig says, people around here chuckle a little when I tell them I have a 6.5. Well I say that, but some people are like man did u put that motor in that truck? And I say no. Then they say dang I didn't even know Chevy made diesels in the 90's. a local engine shop told me I should put a 350 in its place ASAP. I remember him using the terms "won't pull the shirt off your back" and "got pulled over towing a load cause it was smoking so bad the cops thought we were on fire" and I laughed. Very simple fixes, I told him. Now every time I drive by there I give him a little puff of black smoke lol

Can't wait to get an att so I can pull his shop off the foundation lmao.

Anyways I don't have an intercooler and honestly don't want one. Where they are mounted on these trucks would be foolish for me to put one on mine, cause I'm off the beaten trail a lot :), and a lot of these roads are dirt around here, and I can just see a stick or rock or some kind of road debris totally screwing up my nice new $400+ intercooler. But I've been thinking about water/meth a lot and I like the benefits, especially the engine cleaning. And it won't "enhance the lag" of the att like an ic will. My wife will s*** a brick when she finds out I'm pumping a little windshield wiper fluid into my engine :eek: ooooooh noooo not windshield wiper fluid lol

Speaking of lag, this has been another con to me buying the att. But I did find this BD Quick Spool Valve
What do you guys think about that?
Basically what it does is close off one of the scrolls (att is a double scroll I believe) effectively doubling the drive pressure right there at the vanes but then it opens up according to boost pressure and is adjustable.
 
You will not notice any perceptable lag with the ATT vs the GM Turbo and the ATT will carry on when the GM turbo shuts down. The GM turbo is literally the equivalent of running the engine with a butt plug in it.
 
Big T said:
You will not notice any perceptable lag with the ATT vs the GM Turbo and the ATT will carry on when the GM turbo shuts down. The GM turbo is literally the equivalent of running the engine with a butt plug in it.
Click to expand...

Ok so ATT is next on the list. My oil cooler lines are a-ok my engine is surprisingly free of oil leaks cept that pesky oil filter housing. Anybody know how to fix that? After ATT, I need a walbro frc-10 and WMI, does Heath still sell his kit for $549? I can't find it on the website. Can someone point me in the direction of a k47 intake and a f vin lower manifold? Thank y'all for all the insight. I will try to upload a vid of my truck later

Also, don't wanna ruin the surprise, but I've got my eye on a 1993 k2500 rclb with a 6.2 n/a :) it's on a military surplus auction site. Hoping to get it cheap! It's at Eglin AFB, Florida panhandle, bout 7hr drive for me. They said it doesn't run, but may just need batteries. With only 37,000mi and no turbo, I cant think of much that would put it down for the count.
 
Heath no longer lists water injection. He(Bill) said it causes him to many tech calls when I spoke to him last(overspraying charge ect.. The oil filter housing is a PIA and only leak left from motor swap. Leroy sold me a set of o rings.
 
I have an F lower I'll sell $45 + shipping, but did you mean F upper? I have one of those also.
About all you can do on 4x4 adaptor is replace orings (and crush washer if yours has one) or remote mount the filter.
Check carparts.com for K47
 
Burning oil said:
I have an F lower I'll sell $45 + shipping, but did you mean F upper? I have one of those also.
About all you can do on 4x4 adaptor is replace orings (and crush washer if yours has one) or remote mount the filter.
Check carparts.com for K47
Click to expand...

Please pm me with details Leroy, I want the lower only, I took a dremel to my upper and got rid of all that extra metal. Unless you guys think it would make a difference, all that's left in mine is that hole in the middle, I made a blocker plate out of 1/4" steel and a cutting torch in about 5 minutes lol

So now that I've got a tune and got my egr deleted, I can remove all 3 of those vacuum solenoids and my vacuum pump, correct? Anything else I can do away with while I'm in there?

Oh man, I was looking around on YouTube and found this awesome vid. This guy has 5" from the cab back and a 6" tip. Sounds soo good. http://youtu.be/Y3qqBiw0ulU
 
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