• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

Swapping broken 6.2 for newer 6.2

RNation

RNation

New Member
Messages
256
Reaction score
0
Location
St.Peters, MO
Ok, so I'm continuing from the other 6.2 blues thread and have decided to go with the 6.2 I found on craigslist.

I should get it next weekend (probably june 20th).

This motor comes with out the heads. It comes with the pushrods and rockers though (ones that were originally with the motor). He said he'd through in the oil pan but I think he wants to charge a bit more for it.

So my questions would be, what all do I need to get? What should I consider while putting this one together/in truck? I think so far I know I'll need the heads which it seams like the only ones available that I can find are new ones for about $325 each, anybody know of a place to get cheaper or remanned ones? Also I know I need HG (I hear that felpro are the best for the price). As far as head bolts I'm not sure if I should go with bolts or studs, I think they're close in price so which one would be more durable? (except I saw some ARP brand studs for like $160, why so much?) Anything else I should need or look into?

I do have all the regular components like IP, alt, rad, etc.

Keep in mind I'm not very auto mechanical experienced :smile5: So please be kind. Heres some pictures of motor.

 
Is it rebuilt? The bores seem to look like they have at least been honed...

Did you look carefully at the main cap saddle area and the main webs around the bolt hole areas? These are known cracking areas...
 
What are arp's? I thought that was a company that makes the studs.

The story on the motor is that it was on a car lot and the vehicle had had gotten hail damage. The guy I'm buying the motor from had gotten the motor from his friend who owned a junkyard (somehow the friend ended up with the vehicle). The guy I'm buying the motor from said it's been sitting in his barn for about 10 years. So I suppose this motor should be pretty new, but I can't check it out because it's 560 miles away.
 
I would be really leary of buying something that far away without seeing it. I wish you luck. Use ARP studs. Just make sure you use good sealer on them/ Fel pros are fine but if the motor was rebuilt I would question if the block was decked. That would require an oversize HG. If the pushrods have been mixed up I would replace them.
 
He seemed like an honest guy, but I know how it goes. I'm going to trust this one. I'm kind of in a desperate spot anyway so I don't really have the time to "what if" everyone. I do appreciate the concern. I just have to get my suburban back on the road for work.

As far as the studs go, I might have been mistaken but I thought I saw a set for around $50, and the ARP were $160. Are they really worth the extra money?

For the rust inside the cylinders, can I just sand that down with some lite grit paper and oil it up? It should just be surface rust from sitting around for along time.
 
New torque-to-yield head bolts from Fel-Pro run about $60. ARP studs run around $160 from CNC or Northern. In the overall scheme of things, seems like a cheap investment to me... the studs are reusuable, bolts are not (one use only). If you reuse the studs twice, you've recovered your money. Any studs that cost $50 are probably a really bad idea. If you want to save money in this area, just use the FP TTY bolts. Most folks use them with no problem.

The 0.010" thicker head gaskets from Fel-Pro are probably a good idea. If the block has been overhauled even once, chances are it's been decked at least a few thousandths. If not, it's probably got erosion near the end water jackets, and SHOULD be decked before using it so the HG will seal. (Hmmm... could this be why the last set were leaking?) So ten thousandths extra clearance makes good sense. The 6.2 already has a high compression ratio, and depending on the new block's (over)bore, it could go a bit higher yet.

If you go the route of new heads, I'd sure recommend getting them checked out locally before installing them. The Clearwater heads on the motor I'm rebuilding had less than 50 miles on them, yet one of the valve guides was completely destroyed. Not sure why yet, but sure glad I had them checked out before reusing them. Someone else on one of the forums mentioned getting a new set that had one valve stem longer than it should have been right out of the box.

From the rust in the bore in one of your pics, I'm guessing you'll need to pull the slugs and at the very least, have it/them lightly honed. If it needs reboring, even 0.010 over, that would mean new pistons & rings, at ~$550 a set. I'd be reluctant to try to get away with scotch brite and oil unless you are able to measure the depth of the pitting, and even then if you can get away without an overbore, I'd still use the correct cylinder hone, as the cylinder wall surface finish is usually critical to getting the rings to seat properly. Not sure if this is less so with diesels than gassers, but here's the real issue: It takes an awful lot of work to get these motors in and out of the truck. You sure you want to risk having to do it over? Or dick around with it not running right once you finally get it in? Man, if the rings don't seat and you start getting blow by right off the bat... that would suuuuuck. Then pulling the motor again and an overbore and new pistons and... more money and aggravation.

Not sure I'd reuse 10 year old lifters, if they've been sitting around all that time. Which is another $250. Same goes for the rings, if it were me. Another $150 - $200.

If the timing chain isn't tight (less than 0.5" deflection), I'd probably replace that too, as long as it's apart. You can get the chain by itself from Cloyes, gears should be okay if it's really a low miles engine.

Oil pump? Water pump? Vacuum pump? Injectors? Injection pump (or rebuild)? Filters, hoses, glow plugs, belts... fan clutch?

No turbo planned for this truck, right? If not, I have a set of low-mileage GM N/A injectors (just pop tested, all within spec) cheap-ish if you need a set. Hit me by PM if you're interested.

I should add... given the way all the pieces add up so quickly, you should really consider the $900 drop in option, several outfits will ship you a CUCV/HMMV 6.2 takeout, stand-tested and ready to roll for less than a grand. Pretty hard to match that no matter how cheap a deal you get on a short block. $300 for the block + $400 for heads + a master gasket set and you're pretty close to that $900 price already.

Can you tell that I wish I'd listened to War Wagon when he suggested the same thing to me? :mad2:

Boyce in Utah, and there's at least one other company I can't recall atm, both offer these takeouts. Pretty sure you get some sort of limited warranty too.
 
Last edited:
Wow, I didn't realize it wold add up that much plus all the things that need to be checked. Maybe I could look into the $900 drop in. Is that a short block also? I tried to google it boyce but noting came up, is that the company name?
 
Peninsular's will be a top of the line reman (albiet on the higher end than some charge) but, with customer service to back it up if it goes wrong.

Boyces ??? that is a new one on me $900 seems very lowball price for a full up reman, what brand are the new parts, and how many "used but inspected to be good enough" parts are in a Boyce's reman. I'd be hard pressed me doing the labor to meet a total budget of $900 as there is always some other oddball unknown issue identifed on the teardown, making it not worth pushing the judgement of is it good still or only good for another 20K miles, do I change the part now or gamble it won't crap out in a year or so, ie 7 new pistons/rods, and one "used but good one" or whatever part that meets minimum, some of the horror stories I know of reused oil pumps that "look good" so reuse them to save cost, that fail in 6 mos taking out the engine, what was the real cost of the reman.

A quality full up drop in you pay somebody to do is gonna be $2000-2500+ I'd start asking some very specific questions if you find one cheaper than that, and would want full research from others that bought them of how long engines remanned at that price last.
 
Turbine Doc said:
Boyces ??? that is a new one on me $900 seems very lowball price for a full up reman,
Click to expand...

redshift96 said:
Boyce in Utah, and there's at least one other company I can't recall atm, both offer these takeouts.
Click to expand...

Tested takeouts, not remans.

Here's the other company I was trying to think of:

http://americansurplussalvage.com/DIESEL_ENGINES.html

Also, pretty sure it's War Wagon who bought a motor from Boyce. As I recall, he had nothing negative to say about the experience.
 
Thx good to know, looks like I need to spend a little more time in here learning up some more on the 6.2 & 6.2 resources; $900 tested might be a good place for me next to get a good bottom end for a 6.35 build.
 
I called broyce earlier and from you were saying about the other motor I was looking at I think your right, it'd be cheaper and better to just get the drop in one.

So with the drop in one I don't need to buy anything else right? Maybe motor mounts? I think it even has the IP with it.

Is there any advantages to having a military 6.2 versus a civilian 6.2 or are they the same? I think the guy said they were the J code motors. He also said the vehicles were between 84 and 87 where the motors came out of, with that be so do you think the injectors from my 84 6.2 would fit (coarse or fine threads)?
 
RNation said:
I called broyce earlier and from you were saying about the other motor I was looking at I think your right, it'd be cheaper and better to just get the drop in one.

So with the drop in one I don't need to buy anything else right? Maybe motor mounts? I think it even has the IP with it.

Is there any advantages to having a military 6.2 versus a civilian 6.2 or are they the same? I think the guy said they were the J code motors. He also said the vehicles were between 84 and 87 where the motors came out of, with that be so do you think the injectors from my 84 6.2 would fit (coarse or fine threads)?
Click to expand...

You'll need to use your old injection pump, and/or have it rebuilt (or at least checked out). I'm pretty sure the military version is 24v unit. If you do get a pump with the new motor, you can probably unload it on steel soldiers (another forum for CUCV owners) and make a few bucks back.

Likewise. you'll need to use all your original 12v accys: alt, starter, GP controller, etc. Swap in your vacuum pump if the new motor doesn't have one.

Injectors and lines should be a direct swap. Both engines will be coarse thread unless someone put '82 heads on your old motor. If your injectors have 80k+ on them, you might want to at least have them checked before reinstalling them, if not putting new ones in.

Can't recall if the fan clutch on those is the same or not. If in doubt, use your old one or replace it with a new unit of the same (civilian) style.

No other advantage to the military motor aside from lack of EGR, as far as I'm aware.
 
Last edited:
Where is the vacuum pump and what is it's function? And about the injectors, are they cheap enough to just buy new ones or are they worth having redone?
 
RNation said:
Where is the vacuum pump and what is it's function? And about the injectors, are they cheap enough to just buy new ones or are they worth having redone?
Click to expand...

Vac pump goes where the distributor would be on a gasser. Provides vacuum for your A/C, transmission modulator, and... something else that escapes me at the moment. You should just be able to drop in the one that was on your old motor if it's missing from the new one. (Which I think it will be, since the cucv didn't have A/C?)

Injectors are not cheap. ($30 - $60 each new) And not a good place to scrimp. Two recent threads on here all about it. Having them tested before installing provides some cheap peace of mind, and gives you an opportunity to have them reset if needed. The thing to bear in mind is that even brand new injectors are often not well matched in terms of pop pressure. No reason to avoid having your own rebuilt, as long as you have a dependable shop available to do it at a reasonable price.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top