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steering problem...

Deere Freek

Deere Freek

Recruit
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Location
Hastings, MI
Ok, i have a problem with my steering, for a while the steering wheel was cocked to the right and it still drove fine, had an alingment done, they said that they could straighten the wheel out but it would take some time which i didn't have so i paid, cool new tires and all. Now, on my way home tonight i hit a pot hole and now it's cocked the other way, completely sideways, it doesn't pull a certain direction or anything but still, i know it didn't come off of the lot that way..... I kinda want to get an idea what would cause this before i go to the steeler.. any ideas? any input would be awesome.

Thanx
Joel :mad2:
 
You're saying while going directly forward the steering wheel was turned 90* right, then 90* left after the pothole?
 
Check your steering shaft where it clamps on to the steering gearbox, the clamp may be loose enough to slip.
 
Or your pitman arm is loose enough to almost fall off. Scary situation either way, wouldn't drive it until you are 100% sure it is safe.
 
Old age and combination of slop. The idler can give a good feeling running straight then during a turn it can almost jump a little. If you hit a pot hole hard enough the idler pivot may have moved some changing angles from alignment job. Could have had a marginally bad ball joint that just got knocked out of whack.

The alignment was probably done at mostly slop in one direction hit the pot hole and jerked all the slop in the other direction. The wear is probably significant enough like a ball joint or idler arm that normally it feels ok because its worn in. And a big jerk brings out the worst. A really loose pitman would cause loose steering wheel feel.

The shop might should have said we can straighten steering wheel but with worn linkages no guarantees???

How big of pot hole was it? With age they don't seem to hold alignment against bigger hits like when new. Shocks and bushings aren't as good.
 
NVW said:
Check your steering shaft where it clamps on to the steering gearbox, the clamp may be loose enough to slip.
Click to expand...

This sounds more likely than an idler arm to me.I used to do alignments for a living and a worn idler on these truck is just worn and will cause some play but not the problem your having. If the shaft at the box is fine then check the steering wheel to make sure its on tight. The pitman arm has one to four sets of splines that index it to the box so its unlikely that it would jump and if it could it would most likely be ready to fall off. The ball joints might be worn but any good front end guy would have checked all this out and given you an estimate and insisted on replacing the worn parts before doing an alignment. Worn parts will allow to much play and will not hold an alignment thereby giving the shop a bad name. I know when I did it I made darn sure that my customers understood what as well as why I needed to to replace parts in order to make their truck right. BTW most stealers alignments guys aren't the best you can find. They usually are new guys or someone who only does it now and then because no one else understands it or just doesn't want to do it, where a shop that specializes in it can do it quicker and cheaper because of volume.
 
Well we did all the checking on the items mentioned above and no luck...... ugh

so went looking for other things to go wrong and they noticed hey, your rear axle isn't sitting right. Apperantly the aluminum block kit in the rear, one of the bolts snapped and the axle shifted, which i think is kinda wierd for grade 8 u-bolts... anyway, got another 2" block kit on the way and i'll be flying :D And after having my head in the front end all day it looks like i'll be placing an order with Moog and getting some ball joints....

now if i can just get that GL4 with my tax return..... :D

thanks guys for the input
 
Deere Freek said:
Well we did all the checking on the items mentioned above and no luck...... ugh

so went looking for other things to go wrong and they noticed hey, your rear axle isn't sitting right. Apperantly the aluminum block kit in the rear, one of the bolts snapped and the axle shifted, which i think is kinda wierd for grade 8 u-bolts... anyway, got another 2" block kit on the way and i'll be flying :D And after having my head in the front end all day it looks like i'll be placing an order with Moog and getting some ball joints....

now if i can just get that GL4 with my tax return..... :D

thanks guys for the input
Click to expand...

I always brake them blocks on my gasser! :mad2: Nothing like dogtailing :eek:
Also, that will cause your steering problem for sure, trust me I know ):h
 
DEERE3594 said:
I always brake them blocks on my gasser! :mad2: Nothing like dogtailing :eek:
Also, that will cause your steering problem for sure, trust me I know ):h
Click to expand...

Two things, one is did it ever cause any driveshaft issues, and have you found an alternative to aluminum blocks?
 
If you keep driving you blow the U joints after a while., thats how I found the problem the first time. I guess go with bigger springs to eliminate the blocks, I dont drive the truck at all hardly so I haven't messed with mine, but ever time I hit train tracks doing 45mph or any big hole or anything like that it happens and shifts the rear end and makes you have to counter steer it..
 
Pin out of the block? at the top your meaning correct? Yes it brakes there and lets it slide from side to side... and the U bolts shirt to the back. They lean I recken you could say..
 
Do you have a big drop ball mount? Thats where I jacked mine up, 3 inch lift on 35s and it worked. Just a little wobbly :eek:
 
Let me know if you have any problems Deere, Its been around a year since Ive done it, but Ill help anyway I can
 
They call that a leaf spring center pin.

I had an old F-8000 that would blow those every damn storm (it was an old highway sander/plow).

Talk about suck driving down the road sideways. Then it caused a flat in the rear one time.

Hopefully yours wont be a repeat offender.

Deere helping the deer... How cute :)
 
well got it on a lift, got the old block out, put in another alum one in like it for now and i did find some cast blocks for $45 that i ordered. The aluminum one i took out was mashed very bad lol considering it's 1.5 inches tall now instead of 2 :D I think i'm gonna install those cast ones before i do too much more gooseneck hauling ;) The pin is gone, just broke off completely. glad i didn't have any u-joint problems like mentioned lol.
 
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