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Starter question?

Nosferatu49534

Well-Known Member
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Grand rapids
I've read in a couple different discussions about a bracket attached to the start to help with the torque so it doesn't break. Would this bracket be that one?

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There is a stud in the starter that is suppose to go to that bracket.
You need to put a nut after slipping it to the bracket.

Wonder why it is there???? LOL!!!

All starter issue caused by people not putting the starter back into the bracket.
 
I built all new battery cables yesterday and was changing the starter power wire and noticed the stud without anything on it and that's what clued me in. It's all tight to the block and stud now.
 
Of the cables? Very nice. I went 2/0 for grounds and cross over, and #4 for the alternator and power block. I do still need to replace the block to frame and body to frame grounds.
 
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I know the grounds are red. :( the cable I ordered said it was black but they sent red. I'm plannin on getting some black wire loom for the grounds 2/0 grounds. The grounds for the body and block to the frame, should I make those out of the 2/0 or would the #4 work? All total I spent about $100 on parts. I've got half of the #4 I bought and about 3ft of 2/0 left. And a few lugs and heat shrink left. It was a lot of fun to do. :)
 
Braided straps are usually used in ares where there is flexing, heat or other issues. Keeps the cables from self distructing

Personally, I would lean towards Stainless. Maybe somebody will post up and tell me why that would be a bad decision
 
Braided straps are usually used in ares where there is flexing, heat or other issues. Keeps the cables from self distructing

Personally, I would lean towards Stainless. Maybe somebody will post up and tell me why that would be a bad decision
Makes sense. I'll get some as soon as I can.
 
I use jacketed 4awg fine strand cable, soldered lugs, conductive grease (for dissimilar metals contact) then spray with undercoat oil. Leave a service loop for flexing.
 
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