Stalling and stumped!

[indybeck]

Yes, TD spare was under hood on SS heat sync, but immediately got moved when I bought the truck. The truck ran fine with it before I moved it, and then I purchased a new PMD about a month later for peace of mind. Truck still does it with either or PMD. I made the extension harness, and in a week or so, I will make a no splice harness. I took the harness off, and checked for bad spots in the wire, and wiggled and jiggled splices and connector pins. KOKO was done with truck warm at 180-190 degrees. I do have one readiness code that will not go away with a scanner.

 

[indybeck]

The pending code is a p0711 trans temp. I did notice something doing my 2000 rpm IP test, when I get to about 1800 RPM my speedo goes to about 10 MPH, I don't know if that has anything to do with it, but all symptoms need to be told, right?

 

[qak]

I dont know alot about anything yet but ill tell you my experience first hand. I was getting fishbiting and just dead cold engine cut outs. I got to looking into my jumper harness and i want you to look really close at the pins in your pmd and then the female harness. To me it didnt look like the female end was closed enough to make a good connection with the male pins. I took a small screwdriver and bent the female ends a little bit and after that i havent had a problem with fishbiting or dying.

 

[indybeck]

Ok, fellers! Thanks to Qak, I found my problem. I had wiggled and jiggled my harness when the truck was warm with no effect, buuuut, when cold I can make my truck stall on command! Thanks to all for all your info, and comments. I am now going to build a no splice harness, and I would suggest anybody with a stalling problem to check the connector AT the PMD. When cold give it a good wiggle...:thumbsup:

 

[ak diesel driver]

I haven't senn Brooklyn Tow on here in awhile he was pulling his hair out over his.

 

[treegump]

I've been having issues with my truck stalling, but it just started nearly 2 wks after I installed my new south bend clutch, which, after I installed the clutch, I started smelling fuel. I investigated the fuel, and at first I thought it was coming from the lines crawling up the bellhousing (maybe overtightened or pinched it) but the smell comes strongest from the IP. After doing some searching via google, and with a fuel leak somewhere near the IP, I'm wondering if the Fuel Shutoff Solenoid is shorting out and causing issues?

Seems people elsewhere have had problems with the Solenoid that sits on top of the IP, and once they've changed that, it fixes the problem. I will go ahead and check the connection between the connector and PMD (its relocated to my front bumper), but I'm about to tear the top end of my engine apart to do FTB & repair the leaking fuel lines. (Which sucks because the South Bend Clutch is AMAZING!! - If I ever have to change a clutch again, in anything, I'm going to make the effort to get a clutch from them.)

 

[NVW]

What style of fsos do you have? Early ones had a hex shaped hole to tighten them, they were prone to leaking. Later ones had a bolt head built in on the top, they were better.

 

[Burning oil]

I;ve had a pluged tank sock shut off a motor just like an electrical issue. I would have swore it was a pmd. After checking into it the dirty sock came out a Walbro and pre filter went in and it ran perfect after that.
IMO (normal driving) fuel psi gauge is 3rd most important/used, behind speedo and fuel gauge.

 

[Mudbath]

Well I am glad Turbomanvan got his fixed! Hard to help him when all I can concentrate on is his Avatar! :mikelsheep:

 

[treegump]

I'm not sure which type of FSOS I have, but will find out shortly. Still trying to find a drill press to do my FTB mod. As soon as I get around to it, I'll be ripping apart the top of my engine. Then I'll be checking grounds, relocating my FTB filter housing, fixing the fuel lines and replacing the FSOS.