spin off of New Guys Read--> Reliability/Mod List!

[nobby]

Note: ***This thread has been created at the request of the original Poster in order to not mess up the intended technical content of this thread http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/showthread.php?t=21858*** -Pepperidge


If you are running 3.42 rear on a Suburban and load up regularly then the Pyro is a must in my book from a reliability standpoint. Does not take much of a sustained grade to get you fast approaching the crispy zone even with a free flowing exhaust. Not really a mod so to speak as your engine will not really be reliable with a melted piston!

Also do not really see the Fuel Pressure gauge as a necessary starting investment from a reliability standpoint. Simply regularly service your Filter and as far as the lift pump is concerned listen for the tick on start up.

Not sure if it necessarily belongs on those headings specifically but change injectors say at least before 150,000. Its been discussed before by those with high mileage units but as far as I am concerned injectors are a maintenance item on a diesel and the lighter the piston (when aluminium) the more important it becomes. Just noticed its number 9 on mod upgrades, not really a mod/upgrade.

Cheers
Nobby

 

[coachjpg]

Also do not really see the Fuel Pressure gauge as a necessary starting investment from a reliability standpoint. Simply regularly service your Filter and as far as the lift pump is concerned listen for the tick on start up.

When my LP failed, the sound did not change. I use Carcode, and the LP relay reported that the LP was drawing the usual amount of power. The motor in the LP ran as usual. It just stopped pumping fuel. I discovered this when I went to bleed water from the filter. Rather than the LP pushing fuel out the bleed hose, the IP sucked air in and killed the engine.

I now have a new LP and a fuel pressure/vacuum gauge that goes from 30 HG vacuum to 10 PSI pressure. With a dead lift pump, the IP will pull over 10 HG of vacuum measured at the fuel bleeder hose. That's the dirty side of the filter. With a fairly new filter, a healthy lift pump shows 7PSI on the dirty side of the filter. I figure I get about a 2 PSI drop across the filter. When I do FTB, I plan to plumb my gauge into the clean side of the filter.

Regular service is great, but a bad load of fuel can gunk up a brand-new filter the day you install it, and an old filter can be in good shape if it's had clean fuel. I prefer a pressure/vacuum gauge to tell me the status of my filter, sock and LP. Changing filters based on the calendar seems iffy to me. You might be replacing a clean filter, or you might run too long on a blocked filter.

FWIW,
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[nobby]

IMHO calendar fuel filter changes on a Diesel whether dirty or clean is part of the course for good preventative maintenance as far as I am concerned, they're just not that expensive. I just do not see a Fuel pressure gauge as being a necessary reliability initial investment, mod/upgrade on your own choice sure. The IP can work with out the LP and usually becomes apparent as in your case when you go to change the filter. If as in your case you have a ticking pump not moving fuel then if you are carrying out preventative maintenance I.e changing filters/checking for water then you will discover that your pump is not working when you go to bleed/open the water drain valve. As for a bad load of fuel well I recommend everyone carry's a spare fuel filter anyways, should be part of the kit for a long distance diesel so to speak.

Majority of applications do not come stock with a fuel pressure or vacuum gauge and historically has not been in all reality an issue. Reliability wise I would submit this that when you buy the vehicle change the fuel filter to establish a baseline and of course at the same time you will be checking to see if your LP works and then yes modify/upgrade to a gauge if you wish. I would rather see someone spend their dollars and time on an exhaust and boost/pyro gauges before the fuel gauge. In that 1st post I would move the fuel gauge to the mods/upgrades list somewhere lower down.

Cheers
Nobby

 

[WarWagon]

Lift pumps work and pressure test fine at idle. Then you are surging at high RPM high load and wonder why.

Lift pump valve failure. Same noise and current - just no fuel volume. Idle pressure tests at 7 PSI just to keep you guessing.

Driving down the road you surge the engine and stall. - No restart. A load of water/sludge has plugged your sock and or filter. WIF light may not have time to see the water plugging the filter.

A personal point a to b car is no big deal for failure.

When time is money and your truck makes you the money a quick diagnostic or low pressure reading to plan for a fuel pump at the end of the trip can more than pay for the fuel pressure gauge.

 

[Matt Bachand]

LP Failure can happen at any time, and you woudn't even know it half the time as the truck can run perfectly fine without it.

This stresses the IP alot, and you can kill your IP in a few months because your LP shit out.

Not to mention if you have a hiccup or funky feel coming from the engine, quick glance shows you have normal/plenty fuel pressure.

Or it shows you have zero.

Filters can clog as fast as it takes you to fill your tank with bad fuel.

I love my FP gauge, and I probably look at it more often than my Pyro or Boost.

 

[nobby]

Well my Burb is a work vehicle so in effect does make me money and runs pretty much loaded and not just locally I drive long distances for work. Furthermore working with larger Marine diesels I rely on gauges for operation/maintenance/diagnostic purposes so fully get their importance. With that deep appreciation in mind in my 4 years of running my truck and suffering an LP failure, fuel filter screw cap working loose, bad pmd etc, I have not felt the need to permanently install or make it a top priority to have a fuel gauge. There are many scenarios where one can make a case for a form of monitoring on an engine's system from a what if stand point but you have to draw the line somewhere as machinery builders do. For me with our trucks fuel delivery issues can be dealt with, with good preventative maintenance, carrying a spare filter and yes if required a temporary gauge taped to the windshield. So as already stated I do not see an in cab permanently installed fuel pressure gauge as a necessary item for a newb as I feel the list implies by the way it is titled.

From a basic reliability standpoint for newbs I'll suggest this for our yes more than 10 year old trucks in regards to the what if's and maybe's of possible scenarios. In this case time and money would be better spent on simply installing a Heath high output lift pump. That way you know where you stand in regards to LP function and odds are for these vehicles if you did do the gauge you'll probably find you need to replace the LP anyways, so this way you'll avoid spending money twice.

I should point out that I am not saying that the fuel gauge is a bad idea and as already stated as a modification/upgrade sure go for it if you wish.

Cheers
Nobby

 

[coachjpg]

So what gauges do you consider important, and what do they indicate? You mention "pyro", which I presume is the same as Exhaust Gas Temperature. I can see that on my soft dashboard via OBD2. What temp ranges are good/marginal/bad?

I can set up the green/yellow/red zones on my soft gauges however I like. Where is the right place for me to go to learn the appropriate values for these gauges, and what to do when the needle goes into the wrong range?

With EGT/pyro, I presume if it gets too hot you ease up on the gas, right? What else do you do? Are repairs/mods/maintenance indicated?

I have read lots of posts thatl seem to presume information that I don't have. I think I understand fuel pressure. I know people talk a lot about boost and EGT. I know more boost means more air available to burn more fuel, so adding boost should make black smoke (unburned fuel) go away. I know too-high EGT is bad. I don't know how much is too much, and what to do about it. I'm running stock, so do I need to worry about EGT, or is that just a concern for folks who have cranked their engines to put in lots more fuel? This is my first diesel, so I'm really starting from zero here.

Thanks,
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[NVW]

EGT redline should be 1200* F. Ease up on the fuel, With stock exh you have to watch EGT as much as with a hot program.

With stock programming max boost is about 10 psi