Speeding a PC back up?

[THEFERMANATOR]

I'm pretty much at my wits end with my wifes laptop. I've done all of the standard deleting of temp files, cookies, and any other temp files taht can be found. Tried uninstalling programs that don't get used anymore as well, and ran teh disc defragmenter. This thing is still SLOW to say the least and is REALLY pissing me off. The problem lies in the fact that my wife downloads games from FB, yahoo, and some other sites, and this iswhen it started draggin a$$. Since my desktop is done for, I'm stuck with her laptop for now. What are some good programs to clean up all of teh unnecesary uninstall files(the windows file is LOADED with uninstall files from all of these games she has downloaded and removed overt he years) and clean up the registry to try and get this thing back up to speed? Anything else I should do to it?

 

[WarWagon]

Start --> run type in MSconfig and see what kind of trash is starting every time you boot up. Disable what you don't need including adobe java etc updaters.

 

[SuperTuscan]

Take a look at CCleaner.

CCleaner provides an easy way for users to clean temp files and other things from their system.

It will allow you to configure what to remove, so you can keep cookies with logon info if you like.

Run CCleeaner and then run a defrag using JKDefrag and then evaluate.

I'll assume this is for XP.

 

[trouttrooper]

x2 on ccleaner. don't forget the registry cleaner button on ccleaner too. That can really help speed things up.

 

[GM Guy]

how safe is it to allow it to fix registry issues?

 

[THEFERMANATOR]

Is there a free one out there? I followed your link and it says it costs $24.95 for the program. I've got it sped up some by using teh msconfig and shutting down alot of things, but there is still alot of programs running that I don't think should be. Also I shut the link scanner off in the anti-virus and that seemed to stop it from freezing up on large webpages. I guess maybe the wife can have her laptop back, and I'll take teh new DELL I just ordered for myself.

 

[GM Guy]

a little further down, but still in the gray box, it says Version 3.06.1433 (2,991 kb) below it is places to download it, I used filehippo, and it worked fine. but it looks like the other option (their own site) is a little easier to navigate.

basically, it is like spybot search and destroy, pay only if you want to. they would like a donation, but would really like their product to be used and be out there.

 

[CtChevy427]

how safe is it to allow it to fix registry issues?

The ccleaner software will create a back up copy first. I have used it many times and have never had a problem as of yet that required the back up to be used......

 

[trouttrooper]

playing with fire, but I've never backed up the registry and frequently use ccleaner on the registry w/o any issues.

http://www.filehippo.com/download_ccleaner/

the upper right hand corner of the screen says "download latest version" click on it and it brings up another page. Mine will automatically start downloading, there's a small link towards the top to click if it doesn't. Takes my computer about 15-20 seconds for the "save or cancel" little window to come up for downloading

 

[SuperTuscan]

The free version should be sufficient. The site ids confusing - they're trying to sell the full version but the free version is still available.

The reg fix will create a backup of your registry for you.

The startup tool is also nice if you don't want to use msconfig.

Watch what you delete when it does its initial scan. You can configure ccleaner to look in specific areas. You can run into problems if you let it run a scan on everything. I usually limit it to temp files, cookies, etc... and leave the installation logs and other system stuff.

Same goes for reg cleaner. Last time it removed a file association that I use every once in a while. No biggie, just look at what it is trying to fix and if you are not sure skip it.

 

[Franko914]

Ban the wife from using the laptop... it's hers, you say? Sorry, can't help you with that, only technical issues...

Do a print-screen of Task Manager's / Processes and post it so we can take a look-see at what's slowing you down (hint: after clicking on the "Processes" tab, click on the column heading "Image Name" to sort it alphabetically, then do a the print-screen).

You can, also, click on the column heading "CPU" which will sort it into highest to lowest use.

 

[THEFERMANATOR]

Heres what I got from it as it is right now after running the program and shutting down alot of crap. My wife just loves to download games and crap, and it has really slowed this thing down. I've removed all of them that I can find, and cleaned it out as best I can. It is running ALOT faster, but still nothing like it used to. I know there is alot still running, but you should have seen what I started with.

 

[Franko914]

Assuming none of the processes are executed from a virus or trojan-infected executable, there may be some processes than can be terminated, thus, freeing up core memory to help speed things up.

Curious... what are you running that requires SQL processes (e.g., sqlservr.exe, sqlmangr.exe) to remain active? That's 15 MB or core memory there.

Some of the media center processes are required (ehmsas.exe, mcrdsvc.exe) but you might be able to get away with ending others (ehtray.exe, ehrecvr.exe, ehsched.exe). A few other non-essential processes include quickset.exe, AppleMobiledeviceService.exe, PSDiagnostic.exe, etc. and may be worth considering/testing for termination.

A use a batch file that I execute from the command prompt once the system finishes booting up and settles down (no hard drive activity). I check system performance and functionality after performing several edits to the batch file (selecting/deselecting process to terminate) until I am happy with the result, which is usually a better performing PC.

When I get home this evening, I will post the actual batch file I use to speed up the PC (I call it FAST.bat).

One EASY performance boost is to check how your swap file/page file is configured. Multiply the amount of core memory/RAM you have by 1.5 and that is the size of the swap/page file (make it fixed and not managed by the OS). Locate it on a separate physical drive from the OS, e.g., if OS installed on C: drive, install on separate hard drive (if the separate hard drive is a fast one, like the newer SATA devices, even better). After reconfiguring your swap/page file, reboot, then run a disk defrag utility on the drives that used to have and now has the swap/page file.

 

[Franko914]

Above is the Fast.bat batch file I have on my desktop that I execute once the PC settles down after boot up. The reason I wait for the PC to settle down before terminating processes is to ensure that some required resources are made available, but once available, the processes used to start them are no longer required.

The TSKILL command is simple to use and has the following syntax:

tskill {ProcessID | ProcessName} [/server:ServerName] [{/id:SessionID | /a}] [/v]

I don't bother with the parameters at all. The "rem" makes the line a "remark" line and does not get executed.

Another tip: Right-click on My Computer, select Properties, click on the Advanced tab, click on Performance settings, select Visual Effects. If you do not need the visual bells and whistles in Windows, deselect all settings by clicking on "Adjust for best performance" but you can fine tune the settings to get "some" finesse.

 

[Franko914]

Regarding page/swap files:

I have three (3) hard drives...

1. The first, a 400 GB PATA/EIDE drive, partitioned into C: (contains the OS, applications) and E: (back ups of configuration files, drivers, WinXP CD, etc.)

2. 1 TB SATA drive, F: (contains user/data files)

3. 1 TB SATA drive, G: (contains swap/page file and user/data files)

Below are the configurations for the swap/page file (maximum allowed is less than 4096 MB; I have 3.25 GB of core memory/RAM). Note that I specified "No paging file" for drives C: E: and F:.



Having the page/swap file on a separate hard drive than what the OS is installed on avoids "thrashing" of the read-write heads, which happens to an extent, sometimes quite severely if OS/swap file/programs/data files are all installed on one physical drive (even if distributed across logical drives, like my 400 GB PATA drive).

As in my previous post, "After reconfiguring your swap/page file, reboot, then run a disk defrag utility on the drives that used to have and now has the swap/page file."

 

[SfcJones]

Thats a great way Franko, I like that idea, kinda wonder if you have issues with the 1TB drives, with the amount of heat they generate I never bought them.

 

[Franko914]

Thats a great way Franko, I like that idea, kinda wonder if you have issues with the 1TB drives, with the amount of heat they generate I never bought them.

Thanks, Tim. They don't generate any more heat than lesser capacity drives, speed up and slow down as needed to save energy (even lesser heat). When you think about it, they use less energy per GB of storage. Video cards generate significantly more, hence heatsinks and cooling fans on them.

Dust and Cooling tip: I also installed an additional intake fan on each PC with a filter on the intake side -- creates a positive pressure to help keep out dust, works with the power supply's exhaust fan (actually quiets it down a bit because it does not work as hard to suck the air from inside the case to the outside). Less dust creeps into the PC's case, especially through the diskette, CD/DVD drives.

A MicroCenter opened up locally and, for a while, they had the lowest price Hitachi (formerly IBM) 1TB drives for $29 with a coupon (downloadable for home printing). Picked up six of them over a two week period. This PC has two of them. Another I'm building has three, which will be my 11 y.o. son's gaming/home computer but will be used for video and photo editing. One spare.

Another tip: After partitioning your primary drive so the C: drive (100 GB is PLENTY) contains the OS and apps, use a freeware program like SelfImage or DriveImage_XML to create images of your:

1. Freshly installed OS and apps

2. Installed OS and apps updated (with latest patches and updates)

3. Installed OS and apps updated, with new apps

Store the images on the same drive but in another partition, or for higher level backup (e.g., hard drive failure), on a separate hard drive altogether. The next time a nastyware (or wife) disables your PC, you can choose the level at which to restore your system from the drive images above. This method takes less time and is, truly, a fresh install as compared to the method using system restore points. Take notes/create logs... I use Notepad to create text files which can be opened by any OS, word processor, or freeware text editor/reader.

Remember to store your files, data, photos, videos, etc., on another partition or hard drive. You can use the same drive imaging utility to back these up, too.

 

[THEFERMANATOR]

Well the expensive option seems to be working out, when she lets me use it. Our new DELL came into today and I got to use it long enough to log onto our router before she wanted to use it. I guess I'm stuck with her old crappy one. At least I can clean it out now and maybe get it back up to speed.

 

[Franko914]

Well the expensive option seems to be working out, when she lets me use it. Our new DELL came into today and I got to use it long enough to log onto our router before she wanted to use it. I guess I'm stuck with her old crappy one. At least I can clean it out now and maybe get it back up to speed.

You know, those external USB-connected SATA drives work well, too, if you want to consider it for the "old crappy one" to speed it up... I tend to ignore spin rates (RPM) and focus on transfer rates instead.

Less than $50 for 500 GB with free shipping:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001UHWHO4/?tag=jhuntlink-20 (480 Mbps or 60 MBps transfer rate in a 2.5" form factor, i.e., used in laptops and requires less energy)

$20 more for 1 TB with free shipping:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002QEBMB4/?tag=jhuntlink-20 (same transfer rate but in 3.5" form factor, i.e., used in desktops)

 

[Franko914]

Another tip to speed up a program/process:

- start Task Manager (ctrl-alt-del/Task List, or Run/taskmgr, etc.)
- click on Processes tab
- click on column heading "Image Name" or "Process"
- find your app, e.g., iexplore.exe (for Internet Exploder)
- right-click, "Set Priority" and click on "AboveNormal"
- click "Yes" to "Are you sure you want to change the priority class?"

Do not select anything priority higher than this or your system could "hang" (not really hanging, just giving most of its resources to what you told it to...)

"This computer, it doesn't work, I wish that I could sell it. It never does what it should, but only what I tell it."