Sorta new to diesel...going to look at a truck...

[loker]

I was going to be looking at a truck today that a local dealer has, it is a 1993 K2500 with the 6.5L TD. I was wondering what all everyone would recommend checking on that to try and lessen the chance I end up with something that needs thousands in repairs. (I am fine doing a lot of repairs but as soon as I get above $3,000 I am broke and the value in this truck would kind of be gone...).

It got to -30 last night where the truck is located so I guess the guy is going to try and start it and drive it before I even head out that way...

 

[Bullseye240]

Dont let him start it until your there to watch it start cold. Worst mistake you can make is buying a truck that you didn't start or watch it start from dead cold.

 

[bk95td]

Rust under plastic fender flairs. x2 on the don't let him start without being there. Tell him to only plug in engine heater. The 93s are alot less complicated than the 94+.

 

[jbsaxman]

Another thing to look for is excessive smoking, both before AND after it warms up. Some smoking is normal while it's cold, should smell like diesel. If it smell sweetish, like coolant the at best it's got a blown head gasket, at worse a cracked head or block.

Check the oil pressure. Ideally you should see OP around the 40 PSI mark. Anything less could indicate failure oil pump or some restriction in the block or the oil cooler.

While the motor is running, take the oil filler cap off and watch for vapors. This will indicate the presence of blow-by. Some will be normal but what you want to look for is a steady stream of vapor. A Put-Put can indicate an issue in a single cylinder or two.

Does it have a 4l80e or NV4500 transmission (former is automatic, latter is manual)? How smoothly does the 4l80e shift? How about the NV4500? Hard shifting on the automatic could indicate a minor or a serious problem. Grinding gears on the NV4500 could indicate a worn clutch or worn synchros in the transmission.

None of the issues indicated above would be a deal break, necessarily, for me. But it gives you an idea of how much it be involved if there is something wrong with it and it also gives you some ammunition for bartering a lower price. As is, I probably wouldn't pay more than $2000-$2500 for it, tops. But that's if it's low miles and in immaculate condition.

JMO

 

[mitchedo]

Make sure he starts it the night before you look at it and runs it until it warms up. When you go there, remove the radiator cap (or surge tank cap) to check for any remaining pressure. If there is any pressure in the cooling system when the engine is cold, it means combustion pressure is getting into the cooling system. In my case, it was cracked heads. If you are very, very lucky, it will only be a head gasket.

 

[Mike Mead]

Check the oil pressure. Ideally you should see OP around the 40 PSI mark. Anything less could indicate failure oil pump or some restriction in the block or the oil cooler.

JMO

Oil pressure cruising on my Sub is at or around 40, but it drops when dropping back to idle. That is normal correct?

 

[jbsaxman]

Oil pump is mechanically driven. So it would make sense for the oil pressure to drop at idle.

I've seen 20 PSI as being normal and healthy at idle.

 

[JiFaire]

Open the coolant bottle and look at the surface of the coolant... should NOT have an oil scum on it!

Pull dipstick and inspect... oil should be BLACK - no milky froth!

Oh, and BTW - oil should be REALLY black... like he blackest, meanest crap you ever seen. In a normal vehicle, that would indicate that it needs an oil change. In a 6.5, it indicates there is oil present - the stuff turns black like that about 30 seconds after you change it.