snapped off quick connect fitting- the saga continues

[chefmike]

I am venting I guess.

I have the big extractor in there, but it is not keeping hold. The crap metal shears before it can move the threads. So I am holding pressure, gently tapping with a hammer. Heated the crossover with a torch. cursed at it. prayed for it. laughed at it.

Still that bugger will not come free. I guess I am almost at the point that I will pull the whole crossover. Anybody have the 45/64 drill bit that one needs to tap with 1/2" npt?

Oh yeah. I have the flu as well. Christmas present from my sister in law. argh.

Any one have an easy button or a can of miracles? (I did spray it with PB blaster if that counts)

 

[ak diesel driver]

try heating it and then putting ice inside the fitting

 

[JiFaire]

The pot metal cuts real easy, too ... use a jigsaw blade, cut two slices in it about 1/8 of a turn apart, then carefully peel out that slice with a small chisel. You should then be able to loosen the rest of the fitting and turn it out.

Be careful not to cut too far into the threads of the crossover.

 

[NVW]

Mine wouldn't come free either, I just chipped it out with a chisel very carefully and ran the Tap. I didn't need to drill.

 

[Acesneights1]

Did you use the sprial extractor like I posted in my thread ? It grabbed good. I did have to tap it in with a hammer first. Peninsualr Diesel sells take offs for 150$ . I was sick too this weekend. I feel for you.

 

[chefmike]

Yeah, aces, I got that extractor. I am one size up (ex-7, think you had a 6), but it bites good, the metal just gives before it turns. The corrosion is strong.

I am going to try gently chipping after my last shot with the extractor.

thanks for the heads up on the take offs if I hose this one big time!

 

[schiker]

I bought a take off. I buggered mine up pretty bad with an ID pipe wrench just to see if it would work. The straight spline easy out tool from the help section did not work for me. The pot metal is really gummy and variations of corrosion and gummyness are I think all over the place. Later went back and chipped out the old one just to see how people did it and I think that is one of the best ways depending on how gummy the metal corroded.

 

[Big T]

Help me out here. what fitting are we talking about? Is this the one on the passenger side of the coolant crossover where the coolant line stabs in? If so, is there a permanent fix to this lousy connection other than a towel on the nightstand next to the bed?

 

[Paveltolz]

Big T, yes, that's the one.

I understand there is an aftermarket OEM part but I don't know the part number or where to obtain it.
Another option is a Steel barb that seems to be the option of choice with a short section of radiator heater hose used to join things up after removing some of the alumium line. I got mine from NAPA seems to be holding up well.

As for removal, I used PB Blaster, torch, etc prior to removing the old one. Sucker snapped off just as easy as you can say #$%^&.
I used a spiral extractor to get the remainder out. Sucker bit but wouldn't budge the remains. Added more torque and then all of a sudden "SNAP" and I bought a new housing as the old split 1.5 inches long.... Patience is a virtue and $$ saver.

I like Jim's idea and Missy had a good post on the subject where she used a dremmel tool instead of hack saw.
Post #4 on this thread - http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/sh...m-thermostat-housing&highlight=heater+connect

 

[JiFaire]

Search is your friend...

Post #8 in this thread has the part # of the steel NAPA fitting with the restrictor.

Post #25 in this thread, also.

The 6.5 Tech library also has a Parts List sticky...

 

[JMJNet]

Search is your friend...

Post #8 in this thread has the part # of the steel NAPA fitting with the restrictor.

Post #25 in this thread, also.

The 6.5 Tech library also has a Parts List sticky...

I did the one in post #8. Except, since it is a suburban, I replaced the rubber-metal-rubber piece with straight coolant hose 3/4" ID. My Coolant Tee was changed to 3/4" on all three direction a while back. Have not leaked for about a year now.

Don't replace it with the same type of quick connect because it will leak again in a few years. My replaced quick connect lasted 2 years.

 

[Acesneights1]

Dang, I guess I really was "helped". My spiral one bit in good and I used a 1/2 breaker bar and thought for sure something would break but it came out.

 

[Matt Bachand]

Dang, I guess I really was "helped". My spiral one bit in good and I used a 1/2 breaker bar and thought for sure something would break but it came out.

Something worked out well Aces! Be happy!

 

[Acesneights1]

Yeah well the whole family came down with a nasty virus that damn near sent me to the hospital so I paid my pennance for some good fortune. I got a new truck at work so I figure I should be getting hit by a car soon...:suicide:
Chef, I'd be all over that deal from Peninsular. The dual therm housings are coveted.

 

[Tookie]

The pot metal cuts real easy, too ... use a jigsaw blade, cut two slices in it about 1/8 of a turn apart, then carefully peel out that slice with a small chisel. You should then be able to loosen the rest of the fitting and turn it out.

Be careful not to cut too far into the threads of the crossover.

This is how I did mine

 

[chefmike]

Thanks for all the suggestions and threads. I am finally kicking this flu thing, so I went out this morning to work on the burb.

I had put pb blaster on it when I left it. I heated the crossover, hammered the EX7 extractor in, and eased on it with a wrench and helper bar.

I got my miracle, as she eased on out. Cleaned the threads, put in the napa hose barb and she should be good to go. I did not take any pictures, as it has been documented well.

Thanks again guys!

 

[Acesneights1]

good news!