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Slide-in Camper vs Fifth Wheel

revyd

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Quick question.

I know a lot of guys tow with their 6.5s and I'm sure quite a few use a slide in truck camper. What I'm wondering is how does the performance change when moving from a 3000 pound slide in to a 10k fifth wheel.

My guess is it may be comparable but I don't have any real world experience. The weight on the truck will go down but of course the rolling weight increases. Air resistance should be similar. I'm looking at moving from the camper to a fifth wheel and I'm trying to figure out what to expect.
 
You have a db2 if I read your signature right. Is it stock with stock turbo? If so you'll notice a big difference. Plus you'll need to make sure you're cooling system is top notch.
Thanks for the response. The IP is a db4. I put in a lift pump that was for a 93. Thus the db2 reference but I’ll change the sig since it’s misleading.

I still have the stock gm4 turbo but the cooling has been upgraded.
 
First and foremost important item, get an electronical fuel pressure gauge between the FFM and the IP.
I read a lot and take to heart what is taught in this TTS classroom.
I am told that the DB4 really likes between 8, IIRC, and 14 PSI of fuel pressure. Anything below 8 and it causes excessive wear on the IP components.
Thats why I went with the AirDog LP system.
@ak diesel driver went with a different LP system and I think what He did might be just as good as the AD system but maybe not so many filters to have to contend with.
IIRC his may be the FASS pump with a remote located fuel filter.
We’ll let Him tell of His system.
 
If only driving on flatland's, pick your poison. 5-er is certainly workable, but you will need to know how to keep things under control.

If looking to manage any grades, keeping the camper is arguably the better option. While I did not pull a 5-er or slide-in, I did pull a 30' 8K# TT with the Burb. OE shift tables for the slushbox are a hot mess for keeping things cool. While climbing 6% +/- grades, you will need to manage the throttle by watching EGT (and knowing the limit of when temperatures will runaway at a given throttle setting) which means to expect ~50 kmh (maybe), with the engine screaming, and manually downshifting to keep RPMs from dropping below 2K (reminder, the OE shift tables are a hot mess). Cooling stack in perfect condition is a must. Air box that actually pulls cold air (not from the engine bay) is another must. And, get a tune which does a better job at locking the TCC as the OE tune is also horrible for decel and holding back a load.
 
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