Simple question - transfer case knob removal

[SmithvilleD]

I'm gonna put new carpet in this weekend and have a pretty basic question. Does the NP241 t-case knob simply unscrew like the NV4500 shifter knob?

After putting as much torque on the T-case knob as I dared on the first try, it didn't unscrew. Thought it would be wise to confirm it DOES unscrew before I try harder.

Thanks in advance for any help.
Darrin

 

[Slim Shady]

I'm gonna put new carpet in this weekend and have a pretty basic question. Does the NP241 t-case knob simply unscrew like the NV4500 shifter knob?

After putting as much torque on the T-case knob as I dared on the first try, it didn't unscrew. Thought it would be wise to confirm it DOES unscrew before I try harder.

Thanks in advance for any help.
Darrin

Darrin

If I remember right the NV 4500 shifter knob has a set screw that keeps it from unscrewing. You need to back off the set screw than the shifter handle (knob) can be unscrewed.

 

[SmithvilleD]

The 4500 tranny knob/stick looks like it screws into the shift tower & has a jam nut to tighten it at the right clocking.

It's the T-case knob that I'm not certain about. First look I didn't find a set screw in the T-case knob body. The shaft just below the knob looks undercut like where the threading stopped (if it is indeed threaded).

As a sidenote, I've got about 1600 miles on my fresh 18:1 engine and the Cermakrome ceramic coating is holding up perfectly. I've used it on gas/turbo applications up past 1650F but this is the first diesel manifolds/turbine housing I've done & the proof is always in it actually working.

If you're doing a website for your ATT offering, a ceramic coated turbine housing, freshly glass beaded compressor housing, & some basic flat black VHT on the center section/cartridge would make for a sharp looking turbo display.

I did my turbine heat shield in high temp silver powder coat since that process is much quicker to do - I wasn't as confident about it's durability as the label says a 1000F limit. That coating is actually holding up also, but it doesn't polish up like the ceramic.

 

[1995yukon65]

I just had to keep twisting mine side toside til it finally came off. Its a pain in the butt, but it will come off (no threads)

 

[Slim Shady]

The 4500 tranny knob/stick looks like it screws into the shift tower & has a jam nut to tighten it at the right clocking.

It's the T-case knob that I'm not certain about. First look I didn't find a set screw in the T-case knob body. The shaft just below the knob looks undercut like where the threading stopped (if it is indeed threaded).

As a sidenote, I've got about 1600 miles on my fresh 18:1 engine and the Cermakrome ceramic coating is holding up perfectly. I've used it on gas/turbo applications up past 1650F but this is the first diesel manifolds/turbine housing I've done & the proof is always in it actually working.

If you're doing a website for your ATT offering, a ceramic coated turbine housing, freshly glass beaded compressor housing, & some basic flat black VHT on the center section/cartridge would make for a sharp looking turbo display.

I did my turbine heat shield in high temp silver powder coat since that process is much quicker to do - I wasn't as confident about it's durability as the label says a 1000F limit. That coating is actually holding up also, but it doesn't polish up like the ceramic.

I would have to look at my transfer case knob to remember how it came off, i think it had a little clip that needed to be held back and the knob just pulled up, Heck I am guessing now it has been that long, I had to pull the transfer case and trans when I did the clutch.

 

[SmithvilleD]

T-case knob removal on a '95

bk95td had replaced his carpet & found the T-case shift knob just slides on/off. I put an open end wrench around the shaft & tapped on that upwards with a smaller deadblow & the knob popped right off.

Can see why Slim was thinking set-screw; there's a flat on the shaft to keep the knob in the right clock/orientation.