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Should i buy an 06 2500hd with a 6.6 duramax with 298000miles on it?

Runner said:
Here is the matienice records u tell me
Click to expand...

No, no here it isn't. This is merely a CarFax and the first maintenance record they have is in 2010 at 83K miles.

You will need better records than that if your decision is biased on how it was maintained. When where the expensive injectors replaced as they do not last forever and $5,000 of cold hard cash is what I last dropped on injectors.

It's had 4 owners who piled the miles on it. It's lifted = open wallet for worn out front end parts. Driver's seat needs recovering and the foam is likely worn out. The tires look noisy and will wear fast on pavement. Rear seat is missing a bottom on passenger side. o_O

So what is your expected use for this truck, how much work do you or are you able to do yourself on it, and what else are you looking at? You are looking and noticed new and used Diesel Pickups are damn scarce now so why did the 4th owner sell it now?
 
Runner said:
I plan on using it to commit to school everyday and work. 17+14 miles a day.
Click to expand...

This short commute would be well served with a gasoline 1/2 ton pickup. They are cheaper to buy, own and maintain, and generally go 250K without major engine replacements. Diesels are one stuck open injector away from engine replacement before you can turn the key off. ANYTHING goes wrong on a diesel engine it's usually catastrophic: replace engine. Two batteries, lots of filters and oil. MPG is really close on gas 1/2 ton vs. diesel without the diesel expenses. And then you have an extreme mile example where strange things are worn out and also failing due to age.

Do you need a crew cab? I believe the regular cab 1/2 ton V6 work trucks are in this price range brand new.

Towing heavy is where the diesel MPG starts to overcome it's expense. I suggest to people they get over the MPG number as it's really a bargain over TCO for a diesel. Even a 454 is "Shut up and pour the fuel down it!" said over my dad trading a nice 1994 454 3/4T burb for a Olds Bravada POS just over fuel cost.

I am assuming school/work means you are financing with little budget for extensive repairs. I suggest you get something with a warranty to limit your walking while in school on a fixed tight budget. I owned a used 1/2 ton in college that had an extended warranty and that saved my ass when it launched an engine and transmission plus all the little constant problems. (Figured it had long idle hours on it for low miles.) I wound up leasing a GMC Sonoma pickup after the warranty ran out: because it was a fixed budget number not another parts store junkyard raid with long days in the automotive school garage beating that troublesome wore-out lemon into submission. Patch, same year 1993 6.5TD, had double the miles and double the age and was less trouble than that POS lemon 1/2 ton because there were a few things I didn't replace on Patch...
 
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The 1993 GMC K1500 I once had, on a bad day would get 17 MPG. That was a 5.7 liter, 350 V8 to us old timers. 😹
At shy of 200,000 miles installed a new timing chain/sprocket set, new oil pump and pan gasket. Oil pressure went right back up to 45 PSI hot on the road and I sold it at over 250,000 miles to buy My 2000 K3500.
The guy I sold it too put over 50,000 miles on it then burned the engine up because it needed a coolant pump.
I’m not saying to go look for an older TBI truck with a lot of miles on it, merely throwing out one example of what the old GM units are worth of, with regular maintenance.
 
Personally, seems like a lot to pay for a high mileage vehicle that will only be a commuter.

If you need a truck for occasionally moving stuff, a gasser is a more cost effective option

If you're towing heavy, then yes a diesel truck is great

If you still want a diesel commuter vehicle, look at the 99-03 Volkswagen TDIs. I absolutely love my '03 TDI wagon, 40-45 mpg is sweet
 
I have a 2006 Chevy 2500HD, crew cab, 6.6 Duramax, it's in very good condition, I have kept it out of the salt the best I could. Lots of 2006 Chevy trucks around here are eat up with rust, especially the rear bumper. It is usually a garage queen, I usually drive it on sunny days.

I have no clue as to its value, I am posting the miles and hours. Thought about selling it, but I love the truck, it's a pulling machine for sure.

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My son in Alaska, his truck is a 2006 K2500, CC short box, Duramax and Allison. Man, is that a nice unit. I really like that body style.
If I could find one of those then transplant my 6.5 into it, that would be the dream rig of a life time.
 
Runner said:
This is the link to vehicle and price. The one in the other post is service history

1GCHK23206F132820 | 2006 Chevrolet Silverado 2500HD LT for sale in Belton, TX

Make a more informed buying decision at CARFAX by first viewing vehicle history on this 2006 Chevrolet Silverado 2500HD LT.
www.carfax.com www.carfax.com
Click to expand...
Looking at the Carfax history of the vehicle, and having done multiple rotations through Ft. Hood in my 19 years in, I noticed right off the bat that the last half of that truck's calendar life has been with multiple owners/dealerships in the Killeen/Temple/Belton/Ft. Hood area, and two of those dealership names I recognize.

The timing of the ownership/dealership changes tells me everything I need to know about that truck. It was bought when some Spec 4/E-5 rotated into Ft. Hood and then sold to a dealership three years later when orders came in transferring them to another post, or a deployment to Afghanistan, etc as miles went way down between owners. One period between owners looks as if Private Snuffy bought more vehicle than he could really afford (those off-post used dealers rape servicemembers on trade/buy value and then rape them again on the resale price/e-z financing with direct payments from their Army paycheck) and either traded it back in or had it repo'd not that long after getting it.

My guess is that new injectors are LOOONG over due on that truck, a big clue is one of the odometer readings on a dealership transaction. The GM dealer may have done it internally with parts at wholesale and eating labor for about $2,500, but unlikely when there's a whole Army Post full of young, dumb and full of cum soldiers with lots of Hoo-yah and some money, but not lots of experience, just waiting to jump on that truck as it looks and sits.

Yes, it looks sharp with the lift, oversized and highly offset wheels/tires and the Rancho bumper. But all lifts are not created equally, and severe offsets like that puts extreme, non-engineered for, stresses on ball joints and especially unit hub bearings! Figure $2K-2,500 parts and labor to rebuild the front suspension/steering. Another $1,000-$1,500 to replace the tires with something more civil to drive on road, and that doesn't count another $1,000-$1,500 for new, more civilized width/offset rims, either.

Yes, it is a sharp-looking, rust-free Texas truck, but for that mileage and truly unknown maintenance history (injectors?), they're realistically asking about $6,000 too much for that truck.

My advice? Run! Run and don't look back! Find yourself a late 1990's-2013 model Tacoma or Tundra 2WD if you want a dependable, good running pickup with decent fuel mileage that's fairly easy to D.I.Y. fix, has no manufacturer history of major problems (unlike Nissan's constant electrical issues with high mileage vehicles after model year 2005), can haul/tow pretty much anything you want (like moving to/from new apartment/college, moving friends, towing your buddy's bass boat, mom's new deep freezer, etc) and will hold resale value decently if you take care of it.

Just my humble opinion. Others on here have said pretty much the same about that Duramax and made their recommendations on a suitable vehicle.
 
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