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replaced steering box and the pump growls when turning or braking
- Thread starter GJF
- Start date
docdray
Oompa Loompa
yes, initial fill, start engine let run a minute then shut off. check level then start and turn from stop to stop. if fluid is FOAMY, let settle, check level and repeat. if its foamy you may be sucking foam into the lines. let truck sit for 1 hour then check.
next, as you know these pumps have a little noise to them, is it a hiss maybe like the accumulator not holding pressure(how is steering and braking???)
could there be debris in system causing high back pressure?
accumulator test: start engine, turn wheel side to side. turn off engine, wait one hour for full test or 2 minutes for quick. there should be two assist brake applications.
need more test info to go further-is steering jerky, hard, soft, surging, poor return, hard brakes, growl at all rpm's, hissing, whatever info you have.
next, as you know these pumps have a little noise to them, is it a hiss maybe like the accumulator not holding pressure(how is steering and braking???)
could there be debris in system causing high back pressure?
accumulator test: start engine, turn wheel side to side. turn off engine, wait one hour for full test or 2 minutes for quick. there should be two assist brake applications.
need more test info to go further-is steering jerky, hard, soft, surging, poor return, hard brakes, growl at all rpm's, hissing, whatever info you have.
docdray
Oompa Loompa
patience
, a watched power steering pump never clears
, a watched power steering pump never clears
Dave Barbieri
Member
):h ):h Ah geez, my humor fix for the new year!patience
Ya know, I was told years ago by a Dana rep that the best way to bleed a power steering system was to start the engine, let it idle for a few seconds and then turn it off. Do this several times, THEN do the lock-to-lock thing until the wheel turns smoothly all the way thru. Check the fluid level, top off as needed and let the vehicle sit for 'awhile'. He claimed that it was the fluid surge at start-up that purged the majority of the air. Not sure if this was folklore handed down form tech to tech or if there was a true engineering reason for the procedure. I just know that it's worked for me for a long time.
docdray
Oompa Loompa
I agree, 95%
was that pump only replacement?, I can understand that, but if you replaced a line or the gearbox, a little extra flow would help clear all air out, plus anything in the accumulator(and test accumulator).
----actually, turning from stop to stop and brake actuation is a good way to verify any steering issues beyond fluid level.
was that pump only replacement?, I can understand that, but if you replaced a line or the gearbox, a little extra flow would help clear all air out, plus anything in the accumulator(and test accumulator).
----actually, turning from stop to stop and brake actuation is a good way to verify any steering issues beyond fluid level.
The pump was good but the steering box had too much slope and I just put 22's on the truck and needed to have it aligned tommorow. So I end up flushing the old fluid out and replenished with new. This kinda freaked me out as when I started it I could not budge the steering wheel. Which prompt me to go to the PC to ask you guys the question. I pulled it outside by backing out which required no turning of the wheel. After it idled a bit it did start to be able to turn finally. I let it idle a little longer then shut it off to pressure clean. After I fired her up again it was literally growl free. So I have to agree with Dave. I did read on another post from a Corvette site that sells a hydro boost setup to replace the booster. The supplier claimed it could take up to 500 miles to bleed the system completely. But also on those systems the power steering lines point down where on our trucks they point up at the master cylinder. The guy claimed after a 100 mile weekend cruise it was fine.