Removing Motor Cant get the Tranny Bolts off???

[pgguru]

is there some thing I am missing with undoing the transmission bolts? I have 2 on the passenger side off and 1 on the drivers side. the top one in the driver side is right agains the firewall I reached up to the ones on the top (I hope there are only 2) but I do not see how to get to them... I have had the transmission rebuilt twise so I know they manage it I just can't figure it out
Thanks for the help

 

[racedaymechanic]

Lay on top of the engine and get to them that way, youll never get the top 2 from below

 

[pgguru]

That Sounds Uncomfortable

 

[SmithvilleD]

The ratcheting box end wrenches with the ratcheting end hinge can be a big help on those bolt/studs. The hinged end helps with the angle & the ratchet saves some time/frustration. Might consider the warranty when choosing the wrenches as it may take a cheater (extension for extra leverage) on the wrench to get these bellhousing bolt/studs loose.

Also be prepared for the outer nut to spin a revolution or two, then stop & the stud starts turning out. Sometimes this requires holding the stud/bolt from turning with an open end wrench while you turn the outer nut off, & can then get the wiring clamps off.

Can't recall if the GP relay/controller is somewhat in the way? If it is, remove it to improve access to the bolts that are holding up progress. The same concept goes for most any component you'll be removing later anyhow.

 

[diesel65]

Take out the fuel filter housing, that will give you alot more room to work from the top.

 

[Missy Good Wench]

Then two top ones area real BEOTCH.

The fuel feed and return line bracket fastens to the stud top part of the two top bolts.

The bracket must come loose first then the bolts can come out.

I have in the past changed the bracket arrangement and rerouted the fuel lines to make access to the top bolts far easier.

To real long extensions and a wiggley with a deep socket is also doable to get the two top bolts.

Remove the rear transfer case/tranny mount and drop the t case/tranny down some and this will help get to the bolts.

There area total of 6 bolts, two on each side and two on top.

I like to remove the top two and the bottom two and then once everything else is cleared, remove the middel two.

What you dont want is to stress the aluminum tranny case by having either the top or bottom bolts only.

Once your engine is ready to come out, you can support the tranny with a jack and then lift the engine out.

On some trucks, in order to get the engine to clear, you must remove the front RH motor mount from the frame. This allows the engine to be shifted slightly to the RH side and the LH mount will clear and allow the engine to slide forward.

Be sure to unbolt all 6 flex plate bolts and shove the converter back into the tranny a bit.

Its not as tough as it might seem.

As mentioned, the ratchet box wrenches are a PLUS and removing the fuel handler will help a bunch to open the area up.

Missy

 

[Acesneights1]

Would pulling the intake and FFM out help any ?

 

[pgguru]

The Truck I am removing the 6.5 from is going to scrap is that makes any differenced to getting the motor out.
I tried to remove the transmission brace but I can't figure out how to get it out now that its unbolted?
If I Hack the Front off with the reciprocating saw and remove the motor and transmission together.

 

[WarWagon]

The Truck I am removing the 6.5 from is going to scrap is that makes any differenced to getting the motor out.

Say no more...
Sawzall, cut wires and then pull the CAB out of the way.

The transmission mount cross member comes out at an angle and needs a large hammer.