Removed intake: any suggestions for maintenance or upgrades while it is off?

[Sunshine]

Oh sure pick on me :biggrin5:

Tim i new that would put a smile on your face...:sifone:

/Paul

 

[chi2]

You guys are great- thanks for the info; however, you are also very experienced mechanics, and can plow through fuel systems in your sleep.

When I replaced my injectors, and had to move the fuel lines, I had a hard time getting them back on with no leaks. Maybe I was just paranoid about bending them too much (i.e. crimping the line). I had all the other hardware off- turbo, heat shield, etc.

If I do replace the rocker buttons, should I take off the turbo in order to remove the fuel lines? The heat shield will need to come off for sure.. My understanding is that I will need to totally disconnect the fuel lines, and that they cannot be bent too much.

I agree with Ratman: the whole nylon parts thing seems crazy. Does anyone know if there are better after-market replacements? I see that SS diesel sells the OEM type.

Thanks.

Pulling injection lines and valve covers is EASY.

My .02

 

[Ratman]

There's an outfit right here in my backyard called Portland Engine Rebuilders that offers an upgraded setup that replaces the factory "upholstery" buttons.

They sometimes have sets made up, but I just called and they do not have any sittin' around.

The price I got was $140 for a complete set of four rails (one engine's worth). You send yours in, and they install steel rocker guide buttons that are riveted in place. Turnaround time is 2 days.

Their phone number is 503-230-1276.

I personally didn't really see a need when I screwed my engine together. I mean, there are thousands of these engines running around with the nylon guide buttons. I think that if they are replaced before they get brittle, that would greatly decrease the chance of having a failure.

I've seen P.E.R.'s setup, -and it looks nice. I'd definitely put my money on a rivet over a small piece of barbed nylon, but on the other hand, -it IS hard to argue with so many stock setups running around with no issues.

 

[Slim Shady]

There's an outfit right here in my backyard called Portland Engine Rebuilders that offers an upgraded setup that replaces the factory "upholstery" buttons.

They sometimes have sets made up, but I just called and they do not have any sittin' around.

The price I got was $140 for a complete set of four rails (one engine's worth). You send yours in, and they install steel rocker guide buttons that are riveted in place. Turnaround time is 2 days.

Their phone number is 503-230-1276.

I personally didn't really see a need when I screwed my engine together. I mean, there are thousands of these engines running around with the nylon guide buttons. I think that if they are replaced before they get brittle, that would greatly decrease the chance of having a failure.

I've seen P.E.R.'s setup, -and it looks nice. I'd definitely put my money on a rivet over a small piece of barbed nylon, but on the other hand, -it IS hard to argue with so many stock setups running around with no issues.

Take one of your plastic buttons or a new one to your local metal shop ( high school or professional) and have the shop class make you 16 metal buttons as thick and as wide as the plastic with a 1/4 hole in the middle of each. Have them put a slight depression in the center as wide as the head of a 1/4 steel rivet from your local fastener shop then forget ever having to replace the plastic buttons again. I made mine from a scrap piece of stainless that I machined up on my metal lathe. I might have a picture if you need one.

 

[packratt]

On the other site there is a write up about using a thick metal washer available from MCMaster-Carr.