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Remote fuel filter

Thank you for the advice dbrannon79
My factory filter housing is leaking fuel where the 2wires go in at bottom side so I am not worried about heat truck is not driven in winter I am in Nebraska and I also run a 82 Isuzu 4 cyl diesel which has no heater.
I will put in # 1 if I have to use them when it’s that cold!
I am installing a 4770 housing with a wix 33005 3 micron which has a water drain thinking about a mount bracket to go on left fender apron in front of master cyl.
 
for a quick fix, that where you say is leaking is the fuel heater. it will unscrew from the housing, should have a black plastic ring that unscrews, there will be an o-ring in there that you can replace to stop the leak.
 
I would of thought that the 2 wires would be the water sensor and the wires above that would be the heater which has 3 wires
 
Welcome @mr.clopek One thing to watch out for... what is your climate like were you drive? if it snows often in the winter then you might want to keep the factory FFM or get something that has a built in fuel heater. the FFM has an element that keeps fuel from gelling. you only need it for the first few minutes until the engine is up to temp, but it's there for that reason.

I live in the southern end of the US and it gets darn well near feeling like hell's front porch in the summer time and then we get maybe a full month of real winter here! I used a chineesium special remote filter on my 95 mounted on the firewall up near the trans dipstick tube so I could reach it! re-routed all the rubber hose out from under the intake away from the engine heat. No fuel heater needed in my area. on my 93 I simply moved the factory FFM over to the captain's inner fender up by the master cylinder. extended the wire harness for the water sensor and fuel heater, put a short hose on the drain with a valve that dangles over the steering suspension area where I can get a soda bottle to when I am draining and changing filters.

there is lots of things you can do to remote mount the filter, but the key is filtration. GM from the factory iirc used a 15-20 micron filter. that still allows fine things like sand and other particulates past the filter. running a 2 micron filter will catch dam near all things but will also clog up faster especially if you fill up with a bad batch of fuel. so filtration is kinda a double edge sword there in that aspect. I would say go with a finer filter like a 2-5 micron to keep your IP happier. just install a fuel pressure gauge after the filter so you know when things get bad.

if you want to get fancy, get you a single gauge and two pressure sending units. wire it all up to a toggle switch in the cab so you can flip from pre-filter to post-filter. watching those two numbers can easily tell you when it's time to replace filters along with diagnosing a failing lift pump.

BTW your running a mechanical LP.... they are well known when they fail, they push fuel into the crank case. they still pump just fine but will eventually wash out the bearings and cause major issues. you will notice this by checking the oil and realizing your making oil rather than using it LOL
Unless you're burning it as fast as you're making it
 
dbrannon79 you are right
Took off housing and a little rust at O ring
and all flattened out!
With a mirror looked like it was coming out wires! Was leaking directly above them.
Thanks for your help
 
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