red's 12 valve conversion

[Cumminalong]

The tappets are what sit on top of the cam and actuate the push rods.....basically the lifters if talking about a SBC or BBC.

The 12V's had the worst tappets....softest metal and narrowest bases.

Whenever you swap a cam or do pushrods on a 12V, you always want to swap out those tappets with a new set, preferably the common rail tappets.

 

[Cumminalong]

Here's what you're looking at.

These are the common rail tappets.

Whenever I put them in, I polish the flat face of them that rides against the cam until it's almost a mirror to reduce the friction on the cam lobe.

This is with the block upside down looking down at the tappets in their bore.....

This is with the cam installed.....

 

[Cumminalong]

If you want to stud the mains, which I'd suggest, you'll need to modify the block stiffener to clear the studs and nuts.

Some guys will do the studs and not re-install the stiffener (basically to avoid doing the work on the stiffener).....I don't recommend this if you plan on putting any power to it or turning higher RPM's.

 

[red]

havent touched the cam, going to wait on a cam swap for now (trans cost a bit more than expected). with the top end all i've done is cleaned it up a little inside, replaced the head gasket, and going to install head studs and the stiffer valve springs.

bottom end, that stiffener is MIA.

 

[Cumminalong]

Well, that's good and not so bad........

I forgot you said it's a '95 motor, those are the pre-Encore blocks and don't have the stiffeners.

That makes it MUCH easier to do the main studs...no modding is needed.

 

[red]

so are the main studs the only upgrade i'll need for the bottom end or is a stiffener highly recommended with my block? current power goals are 800-1000ft/lbs of torque (probably short for now because of only 1 turbo).

 

[Cumminalong]

Your block isn't setup for a stiffener. The stiffener plates didn't come out until the 97 models when they swapped to what they called the Encore blocks.

So yeah, the only thing you can really do is stud the mains.

For 800 - 1000 ft / lbs you're fine. There are guys running up in the 1500 - 1600 lb range with the stiffener.

 

[red]

excellent, one less thing to have to worry about then.

on another note, lookie lookie at what arrived today!!!

oh, shiny!

engine crossmember from avalanche engineering
rebuilt nv4500 with 5th gear upgrades
turbo and exhaust manifold from ATS
all very well packed and arrived with no damage and great customer service from all. mad props to south bend for their packing job

the flywheel wasnt going anywhere in its box, same for the clutch and pressure plate in their box.

 

[btfarm]

Nice shiny stuff!:thumbsup:
I LIKE the shiny new parts!

 

[ak diesel driver]

Are you wounded or just couldn't decide what shoes to wear? LOL

 

[NVW]

Are you wounded or just couldn't decide what shoes to wear? LOL

Pretty observant AK.:hihi:

 

[red]

hahahaha


not my feet in the picture, its my friends feet. he had surgery done on his ankle/foot not too long ago but its healing up now.

should be getting the windshield replaced in the backup truck this evening, if all goes well

 

[red]

windshield is replaced, have to wait now until registration arrives which wont be until after the weekend for sure, damnit!!!

 

[red]

what happens when you get a determined redneck with a big project, and a friend who says he can borrow his beater truck for a few weeks?

yesterday evening i got the front clip removed, truck into the shop (height issue, 1.5" of clearance with the top of the door like this). also got the wiring removed intact and the computer removed from the dash. today i'm planning to have the motor and drivetrain out, then hopefully get the frame and firewall cleaned up

 

[red]

something is missing in this picture

 

[red]

not much done over the past 2 days. got the engine crossmember removed as well as the fuel lines. also tore the front clip apart and have the intercooler sitting roughly in place now behind the grill. need to do some tweaking to get it to fit properly and make the mounting brackets as well. tomorrow i'm going to get the stuff i need to make a temporary paint booth thats heated so i can prep the parts for paint and get that out of the way while i wait for some of the other parts to arrive next week.

 

[red]

paint booth is setup

 

[red]

woohoo lots of other goodies arrived today!! new heavier valve springs, governor rpm spring, main studs, POR 15 paint, clutch slave and master cylinder. injectors are the last motor part i'm waiting for, other than that its some transmission and transfercase parts and need to place an order for exhaust, air filter, fuel pump (leaning towards an airdog 150), and last of all get my driveshafts modified.

 

[john65td]

if the cummins is a p-pump with the stock lift pump on the block, that stock lift pump can support up to 600hp. i looked into eletric fuel for mine and thought it was a waste. just my 2 cents

 

[red]

good info to know about the fuel pump.


ran into a hiccup but will be an easy fix to take care of tomorrow. all of my metric 1/2" drive sockets are 6 point and the arp studs need a 12 point, so gotta go pick up 2 12 point 1/2" drive sockets tomorrow when i get up. got a decent amount done today, if all goes well i should be able to do a test fit tomorrow evening.

after i got the paint booth torn down i swapped out the valve springs for the stiffer 60 pound springs, took longer than expected but overall went smoothly. once that was completed i re-installed the head onto the motor and moved on to the ARP head studs. went to go torque them down when i realized that i dont have any 12 point 1/2" drive sockets, so i'll need to pick some up to get those torqued down.

moved down to the main studs and got them installed, not torque either because of the same problem.

so, with the motor at a stand still for the night i went ahead and checked out the t-case adapter that arrived in the mail the other day and noticed something that will require some modification

that little nub is preventing the housing from bolting all the way to the nv4500, a little work with the grinder should take care of the issue. decided not to do that tonight so i dont disturb the neighbors so i checked the painting that i had done.

the truck has very little rust, very minor surface rust is some areas but hardly anything for a northern truck. being that i dont plan to get rid of this rig for a long time i decided that i would go ahead and take care of some of the hard to get to areas while i have it apart, time permitting.
heres the frame as i was cleaning it

afterwards

then coated with 3 layers of POR 15

didnt paint all of the frame because i need to get this finished asap, just took care of the areas that i wouldnt be able to reach once the new drivetrain goes in. also hit the underside of the core support