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Rebuilding Fisher MM1 Lift Cylinder

Matt Bachand

Depends on the 6.5
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Location
Worcester, MA
ITs half on half off, last year it was off a little, now its half on the piston half inside the pack. Will this just weap or will it cause lift failure?
 
I don't think I would take that chance. The way my luck would run it would fail at the worst time, not saying there is ever a good time. This is prime time to get the equipment in top shape so failures don't happen.
 

Yes sir it is. I'm looking to repack that lift piston, and either replace or steel wool down the piston....

I went out to look at it today, painted up the frame... was going to remove the unit and bring to my carport, but figured its already on its own stand. Going to bring the entire plow to my house. What's involved? Will that huge nut come off easily? (12 salty winters on it)... torches a no-no?
 
Matt, Normaly comes right off, need a BIG wrench though LOL I replace the rod when I do the seals, then you are back to OEM fit and you should get many more years of service out of the unit.
 
Matt, Normaly comes right off, need a BIG wrench though LOL I replace the rod when I do the seals, then you are back to OEM fit and you should get many more years of service out of the unit.

So I just need the new rod, packing nut, and seals right? Everything else inside, if there is anything else I should just assume is fine?
 
Yep, might pull it apart just for grins but that normally all you need to replace.

No grins.... :) LOL... broke the nut. No turning back now boys. Help me out!!

I've positioned it to sit verticle so PB BLASTER pools around the threads, I scraped em clean with a pic, and blew em out with my air gun, I'll do that once a day until Saturday when I'm going to attempt further remvoal.

It still has fluid in it, but I don't think that will prevent any soaking in from happening.

Time for the ideas. Heres Pix.

Thanks as always.

Maybe I'll dupe post this over in the 6.5 section just for your so called 'grins' j/k bro :)
 

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Oh Crap Matt, If it wasn't for bad luck you have none. The seal is junk any way, PB blaster is a good start, the use a small torch, heat the area around the nut, might also use a drift pin and hammer and lightly tap on the nut to jar it lose. What size is the rod?
 
Oh Crap Matt, If it wasn't for bad luck you have none. The seal is junk any way, PB blaster is a good start, the use a small torch, heat the area around the nut, might also use a drift pin and hammer and lightly tap on the nut to jar it lose. What size is the rod?

Aint that the truth.......

1 1/2 x 10inch rod.

Other ideas were pull up, cut it flush w/sawzall, push it in a little, and hammer/punch the pieces back ...

I knew it was do or die when I pulled out the pipe...............

And it died, lol

What do you mean it broke??
 

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Good news here, after doing propane heating, the pb blaster no longer stays pooled around the ring, meaning it must be riding its way down the course threads...
 
Matt, I once was told to use wax to get out a stuck bolt. Never did try but was able to find this. Good luck getting it off.


Use a regular propane torch to heat the bolts (be careful not to melt anything else in the process) then melt gulf wax onto the bolt. you will see the wax sucked into the rust, and bolt housing. the gulf wax does an amazing job to free up stuck bolts because of the way it permeates the rust. then while the bolt is still warm loosen it. you can get gulf way at any hobby store or candle making place.
 
Matt, I once was told to use wax to get out a stuck bolt. Never did try but was able to find this. Good luck getting it off.


Use a regular propane torch to heat the bolts (be careful not to melt anything else in the process) then melt gulf wax onto the bolt. you will see the wax sucked into the rust, and bolt housing. the gulf wax does an amazing job to free up stuck bolts because of the way it permeates the rust. then while the bolt is still warm loosen it. you can get gulf way at any hobby store or candle making place.

I Think i'll good to go as the pb is now riding down the course threads has to be hitting almost all the surface area of the threads by now. Every time I go check on it its gone and I add more....

I wont even attempt it till Friday, so I'll keep PB'in away whenever I can... Mixing it up with WD 40...

IF its still stubborn, I'll try candle before I end up hammering the little piece of chuck nut I have left.

I sure wish I did heating before I snapped it, but hindsight 20/20.... I honestly thought that huge pipe would turn it free, as its so large.... I think the wrench just put uneven torque ...

And a WHOLE LOT OF IT! lol.... must have been in the 1000's....
 
Matt, I think the Pipe was over the top ):h Keep at it sounds like you are on the right track.

Yep, I rarely fail.... :)

Little propane heat, pb blaster, and air hammer/chisel for the win!

I was able to chisel the nub counterclockwise and after all the vibrations, and repeated spraying of pb blaster, about 10 minutes I thought I was seeing things as it was moving!!! Spun it out the whole way with the air, it did get easier at the end, could do it with a rag, but light vibration helped it go. Here she is!!!

THis made my day!

Thanks guys for all your help thus far. I'm just going to order 100% new, so i don't even need to dis-assemble this. What will I save, 10 bux or so by reusing a washer or 2?

Before I forget, on re-assembly, how tight do I tighten the packing nut?
 

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Yep, I rarely fail.... :)
Before I forget, on re-assembly, how tight do I tighten the packing nut?

If you can turn it in by hand, then hand tight plus 1 to 1 1/4 turns to start, it will weep fluid the first few times you work it, then recheck and add up to 3/4turn with a normal size wrench ):h

Glad it worked out for you.
 
If you can turn it in by hand, then hand tight plus 1 to 1 1/4 turns to start, it will weep fluid the first few times you work it, then recheck and add up to 3/4turn with a normal size wrench ):h

Glad it worked out for you.

Thanks bud. You've helped alot here.

Much appreciated.
 
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