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Really high egts and lots of cold smoke..IP ?

A

Acesneights1

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I'll try to redo this but basically just punching the truck on my road and I can hit 1100+ no problem. It's running 700 at 30-40 mph and smoking really bad on cold start up. Ip was done about a year(by PO) I did injs back in May and Did glows as well. Duratherms from Heath.
What the hell is wrong with this thing ? If it was a DB2 I'd be pulling the IP off. The smoke is raw fuel.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2YrrzPDG9IM
 
mine is doing the same damn thing.

smokes like a bugger when cold started,misses and chugs along till it warms up for a couple minutes.

i don't have a pyro gauge yet to know if it is running hot out that end though.
 
X2 one or more injectors or timing went out of whack,

Also need to get Matt down there with the carcode scanner again, maybe timer stepper motor stuck or CTS making it over fuel, does it clear up when it warms up ?

When we did TDCO this summer maybe a hair too much advance on the IP for cold weather ya'll get maybe better at -1.5 you don't know if prior owner did a optic bump when he was into that IP when he built it?
 
Need to look at idle fuel rates and desired vs measured timing. I was talking to someone that looked at theirs recently and even though it wasnt coding, on startup measured timing was in the 4s when desired was in 8s. It doesnt throw the timing stepper motor DTC34 until its 5 degrees off for more than 21 seconds straight. So you can see how you could have an issue and it not tell you, or GM knew there were issues and didnt want it to code on you, and IP warms up or lubes up again and starts working right. Running TDCO learn resolved that issue it seemed and realized its not been correctly timed since he owned the truck.

I think Kennedy tested on a dyno that -1.94 TDCO produced a few HP, but I notice no difference with a power program on the PCM, so I just set it between -0.75 and -1.35 TDCO. On a stock program you might notice a bit of power difference. I just like how it doesnt rattle as much at -0.75 TDCO, and who knows, maybe its less wear on the IP.
 
Thanks for the input. I agree with Buddy that I really didn't notice any HP gain with -1.94 other than a noisy motor. Tim, I have carcode and reset the timing again. It is currently at -1.05. Carcode is really hard to use. I cannot get the dashboard to work but I'll try again. I got those injs from the place we talked about tim. I don't want to post negative about them until I know for sure there is an issue but in another thread I had posted Number 8 cyl was noisy when I shut if off the truck got quieter. I swapped that inj out for a new one but made no difference which is why I am beginning to wonder about the IP. It was rebuilt by Badger Diesel by PO. Do you guys see how fast the pyro climbs in it ? I'll try to get those idle rate #s and timing numbers. Damn, I wish Steph would make GMTDScan for Obd2. Still watin for Nobby to try 2002 setting in AE to see if Cyl kill becomes available. I may buy AE.
 
The rate that pyro climbs is nuts. I'd still be concerned about the gauge's accuracy. I know it's an auto meter and they don't sell crap, but that doens't mean they don't have cases of bad gauges.

Exactly how custom is that tune? Is it anything like the GL4? Does it blow the GL4 away? I can barely get my truck to hit 1,000*F when really beating on it and that's with the GL4 running 13-14 psi sustained 15 spikes. I'm getting plenty of fuel because at 14 psi sustained i still see a haze from the pipes.

Your timing isn't that far off from mine. I'm around -0.90 and the engine runs smooth as glass. Your at -1.05 and your EGTs go nuclear hot if you sneeze on the pedal. I don't think timing is your issue. If it was everyone running -1.94 or -1.50 would have EGT issues.

The startup smoke i'd be looking at the IP or the injectors. If that were a DB2 equipped truck i'd have ripped the pump off long ago. Just because the IP was rebuilt doesn't mean it's a good quality rebuild. You know that all too well when you swapped '90 burbs IP.
 
I vote fuel related also, combined with maybe a little to much advance. I will post up my experiance if it helps.

I think the gauge is accurate as mine climbs like a tach also but doesn't go above 1,000 unless floored sustained.

Too much fuel,and lots of advance equals heat [pinging,pre-ignition], to much retard in the timing will also result in heat but you will have no power.
Atleast from a gas motor perspective. I'm still learning about wiesels.
 
I backed my TDCO off a tad for the winter, running at -1.7ish. My EGT's avg is 525F at 70mph. If I hold the go pedal to the floor I can get the EGT up to 1000 running 12lbs boost with very light or no haze out the tail.
 
I recently worked with another individual who had a rebuild from Badger diesel. We found the IP was way out of calibration. Fuel rate was 3mm3 at idle and truck ran crummy. I showed him how to access the OS and that he should adjust it until he had a idle fuel rate around 8mm3, then run the TDCO relearn to a value around -0.75. After that he said the truck ran better than ever. Besides that new rebuilt IP experience, I have worked with 4 others to perfrom the same procedure, all realizing their truck had never run as good as it should have been until it was set up correct. It could have been from their own optic bumps, poor rebuilds, or OS replacement. Also why I don't recommend the optic bump, unless it gets countered within the software.
 
sparky18 said:
why does everyone keep saying they would have already ripped the DB2 out?

i'm getting worried here
Click to expand...

We say that because when a DB2 goes "bad" it'll smoke like Kenny's dually did when starting, but the DB2 will cause the engine to smoke all the time. Raw unburnt white-ish/blue diesel smoke right out the tailpipes.
 
X2 on No Optic bumps for me it's a VERY sensitive adjustment, I did a couple on a bench at my buddies shop and even in that setting if not really paying attention when torquing the hold down screw, the "bump" will slip on you and wreak havoc on trying to get it times correctly, and having good idle, and may not show up until a change in weather where temps become a player in the game.
 
sparky18 said:
why does everyone keep saying they would have already ripped the DB2 out?

i'm getting worried here
Click to expand...

I think maybe you are confused, DS4's get ripped out of ours & replaced by some with DB2.

You don't have a choice no trons in yours to run a DS4 so you can only run DB2 all mechanical which has it's quirks as well but your issues easier to trouble shoot as no trons to deal with; and generally a DB2 won't strand you, it may run like crap until getting fixed but it's still running.

Some folks swear by that but its pure mechanical you get what you get for fuel in response to the demand load of the governor section of the DB2 IP.

I'm from a different camp I prefer the DS4 it will provide significantly more fuel than the DB2 if set up correctly with a quality reflash, and I don't have to dumb down my truck or run a stand alone tranny computer and the tranny & IP can be tweaked to work with the best fuel schedule/boost/& trans shifting modes for power & economy.

Want "end of times" reliability (most of the time) go with the DB2, and a 5 speed manual, that is my next project vehicle a 4x4 dually tron free truck other than radio, glow, starting, lighting, and charging circuits, after going thru my "end of times scenario" after hurricane Katrina I want a vehicle as bullet proof as I can make it, can be ugly as sin but it will be survivable to it's core, and capable of burning just about any combustible liquid fuel I put in it and able to carry spare IP/nozzels or able to rebuild em myself.

Want maximum grunt from the 6.5 go with the DS4, think about it if a better IP was out there wouldn't that be what Bill was running @ Bonneville, he's running a off shelf DS4 same one we have, one of my FTB inlet fittings & modified fuel inlet screen/inlet pressure regulators and his custom programming asking for all fuel a DS4 can produce, that's it.

So IMO nothing to be really worried with your DB2, be vigilant to "sensed" changes of it starting to act up, add gauges because in addition to looking cool IMO, while not really needed on a stock truck, they do give an instant/constant ability to monitor for boost or EGT issues creeping up on you.
 
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buddy said:
I recently worked with another individual who had a rebuild from Badger diesel. We found the IP was way out of calibration. Fuel rate was 3mm3 at idle and truck ran crummy. I showed him how to access the OS and that he should adjust it until he had a idle fuel rate around 8mm3, then run the TDCO relearn to a value around -0.75. After that he said the truck ran better than ever. Besides that new rebuilt IP experience, I have worked with 4 others to perfrom the same procedure, all realizing their truck had never run as good as it should have been until it was set up correct. It could have been from their own optic bumps, poor rebuilds, or OS replacement. Also why I don't recommend the optic bump, unless it gets countered within the software.
Click to expand...

That's not what I wanted to hear. Tim , Bill and Matt were here when my truck went ballistic in the driveway. We changed the PMD and it seemed fine after that but after I pulled the head off for other reasons, I removed that PMD from the IP and tried it in my Burb and it worked fine...Bison was also saying something about delviery valves in the IP hanging ?? Unless Carcode is killing a different cyl that it says I still have a fuel knock on # 8 (and it sounds like it with a stethescope as near as I can tell). I changed the Inj , no difference. Also the amount of smoke has gottwen worse with colder weather. It used to clear up quicker. I had orignally thoght the smoke was from Inj bleed down but I doubt that would smoke that long. It was smoking for a good minute or more and I revved it up a bit. Damn, an IP and injs I'm looking at well over a G. :mad2: It's gonna sit until spring if that is the case but I will try to get some #'s froom Carcode. it's a hard program to use. I don't like it.
 
Have you tried the 2500 RPM Test? Engine must be SUPER HOT per HEATH, so after a 20 minute run, slowly bring RPM to 2500, and slowly back to idle. About 10 times. See if any patterns or problems or lack of smoothness...

I know you're aware of the test Kenny, just posted for other readers and searchers.

INJ Bleedown will give a PUFF or a few PUFFS of smoke and clearup in a few seconds... Sticky injector may do differently.

How about low compression until it heats up? Just a thought.
 
I have a knock that goes away when I kill cyl. #2. It will gradually come back starts out soft and gets louder after a couple minutes.

I also replaced that inj. today with same results as you. No change. Although I don't have the smoke issue you have.

Mine clears up after about 4/5 seconds.

I might have to take the V/C off and investigate further. Or ?
 
Yep, 2000 rpm test ok. It's cold out and I am not using the truck but I forsee a bench test coming for that IP if I don't get pissed off and sell it first. I've thought about it but I really like the way the truck looks and drives. ON the other hand depending on how the burb tows I may no longer need it.
 
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