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Radiator replacement?

mitchedo

Member
Messages
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Location
Bountiful, UT
I have my radiator out to take to the local radiator shop. There is absolutely no corrosion whatsoever inside it (peeking through the holes with a flashlight). However, the bottom corner where the plastic cap attaches to the core looks like it's had a very slow leak for quite a long time.

two questions:
1. Can they fix those stupid plastic cap leaks?
2. If not, are the replacement radiators from Autozone okay?

On a side note:
After tearing down this engine and looking at all the cooling passages, I'm a believer in Dex-Cool. Yes, you hafta be careful with it, not mix it with anything but distilled water, keep it full, but I've never in my life seen such a clean cooling system. I flushed out the heater core and blew the water out; the block's been boiled, the heads are new, and I might need a new radiator. This would be the perfect time to switch to green stuff. I made my decision and bought Dex-Cool last night.
 
I felt the same about the Dex-Cool. When I did My head gaskets, the engine's cooling system was clean as a whistle. However, I did change the anti-freeze to the universal, high mileage stuff. Has sort of a pale green yellowish color to it. I feel that this is better than the old green stuff. It will mix with different types of anti-freeze.
 
The only way to fix them is to uncrimp the tanks, install new rubber seals than recrimp.

The issue is, will the tabs recrimp and not break off?? Its a crap shoot.

The new radiators come in a couple different qualities.
One type has the tubes fastened in with epoxy (Cheaper overseas made stuff)
The good ones have the tubes aluminum brazed in and are OEM or better in quality.

Factory quality units sell for about $400 or so and the cheap stuff is not worth your time or $$$$

Hope this helps

MGW
 
The only way to fix them is to uncrimp the tanks, install new rubber seals than recrimp.

The issue is, will the tabs recrimp and not break off?? Its a crap shoot.

The new radiators come in a couple different qualities.
One type has the tubes fastened in with epoxy (Cheaper overseas made stuff)
The good ones have the tubes aluminum brazed in and are OEM or better in quality.

Factory quality units sell for about $400 or so and the cheap stuff is not worth your time or $$$$

Hope this helps

MGW

Helps a lot Missy. Where can one find one of these good radiators? I can't imagine the aluminum tabs won't break off as soon as they're loosened.
 
I bought my radiator from the dealer in 06 and got it for $325 whereas AZ wanted $409+ tax for one. As for the universal PRESTONE anti-freeze, DO NOT USE IT UNDAR ANY CIRCUMSTANCES!!! I just had to tear down an engine that I put a new short block into less than 2 years ago that had this stuff put into it. The short block was new, and the heads had been baked and tumbled to completely clean, as well as a new pump and radiator in it. When I tore it down the head gaskets looked like HELL and were almost rotted through in a couple of spots. I have another engine I put this stuff in and the headgasket in it has rotted throgh in just over 2 years. I will NEVER run this crap again!! I use the reccomended anti-freeze and buy it under the ZEREX brand. I have run ZEREX green for years now without problems, but it became hard to buy for awhile so I switched to PRESTONE universal. I learned the hard way why this stuff is crap. Plus I can buy the ZEREX at NAPA for $8 a gallon whereas the universal is $14 a gallon at WAL-MART and the others. ZEREX is by far the BEST anti-freeze I have EVER used or seen, well worth the money.
 
one positive for having a radiator rodded and new tanks= comparitively cheap. $400 for new one or I got quote for new tanks and clean, $25 per tank and $40 for boiling. had cash for new, trouble ended up being a defective new fan clutch.
 
Helps a lot Missy. Where can one find one of these good radiators? I can't imagine the aluminum tabs won't break off as soon as they're loosened.

I had a dealer shop crack the inlet neck on my 96. The local radiator shop replaced the tank and cleaned the core for $100. hasn't leaked a drop and no broken tabs. It was cheaper than $300 for a new rad, so I had to try it.
 
I always though there was a reason Wal-Mart sold Prestone.... Oh well, I only use Zerex. Dad needs to tear down and redo the head gaskets and intake gasket on the 98, and once it has the fancy new GM gaskets in, the decision to go with dex-cool will be easy.
 
I bought my radiator from the dealer in 06 and got it for $325 whereas AZ wanted $409+ tax for one. As for the universal PRESTONE anti-freeze, DO NOT USE IT UNDAR ANY CIRCUMSTANCES!!! I just had to tear down an engine that I put a new short block into less than 2 years ago that had this stuff put into it. The short block was new, and the heads had been baked and tumbled to completely clean, as well as a new pump and radiator in it. When I tore it down the head gaskets looked like HELL and were almost rotted through in a couple of spots. I have another engine I put this stuff in and the headgasket in it has rotted throgh in just over 2 years. I will NEVER run this crap again!! I use the reccomended anti-freeze and buy it under the ZEREX brand. I have run ZEREX green for years now without problems, but it became hard to buy for awhile so I switched to PRESTONE universal. I learned the hard way why this stuff is crap. Plus I can buy the ZEREX at NAPA for $8 a gallon whereas the universal is $14 a gallon at WAL-MART and the others. ZEREX is by far the BEST anti-freeze I have EVER used or seen, well worth the money.

I bought Prestone Dex-Cool. I didn't read the whole label, but it has Dex-Cool at the top, so I assumed that's what it was. Did I get the wrong stuff?
 
If you have run DEX-COOL before, then that is what you should use. PRESTONE makes a DEX-COOL AND a universal that they say mixes with all 3 styles of anti-freeze, and the universal is GARBAGE!!!

These pictures are of a set of gaskets out of an engine less than 2 years old that had PRESTONE universal in it. The short block was new as well as the pump and radiator, and the heads had been baked and tumbled and heater core flushed. This is not a good sign after less than 2 years of useage and 9,000 miles.
 

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