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Radiator conundrum

chi2

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Location
Los Angeles, CA
My radiator is leaking (verified by a pressure test) and appears to be the original radiator. Other than looking old, the rad has been thoroughly cleaned (one of the first things I did after purchasing it) and I have not had any high engine temps since cleaning the rad and replacing the coolant. Then it started leaking :pissed:... I removed it, and had it inspected: the leak is coming from a bottom tube.

From what I understand, our trucks came with four core radiators. My radiator is a four core radiator (inspected); however, when I try to order a radiator from parts stores, they all list two core radiators. Furthermore, they are all plastic/aluminum builds (as is the one from my truck). Some of the parts people say that the newer aluminum radiators cool much better than the old style, and that is why less cores are used. My father swears that copper radiator cores are better. Given the price of copper, I doubt we will see many more of these.

My options are really limited, and feedback about what to do is appreciated. Here are the options as I see them:

1) Buy from the stealership: They will sell me a new radiator for 616.00 (not including tax)- no small sum. They would not verify the core type, and only said "it would be a factory replacement"

2) Buy a replacement radiator from an online vendor for about 300.00. The brand is Proliance. This will be a two core, and it is aluminum and plastic (and looks exactly like my old one). Btw: RockAuto has a Proliance, which they list as "four core" but this is wrong info! When you cross-reference the Proliance catalog, it is a two core.

3) I can have the core rebuilt. Two shops gave me quotes for a core rebuild: 500ish and 600-700. This is about what a new GM radiator would cost.

4) My final option is to have the radiator fixed. Two radiator shops inspected the rad, and told me I should just buy a new one (they did not have any answers when I told them that I could not FIND a new rad that had the four core specs). One shop also said they could repair the leak by soldering the tube off from the tanks. Essentially, they would remove one tube (at the base) from the radiator, and this would cost 40.00.

So, basically, I'm confused about the minimum rad capacity for our trucks. Would a new two core be just as good or better than a used four core that has one tube pinched off?

Or do I subsidize the General, and buy a factory rad?

The way my father tells it, back in the day custom radiators were easy to have made. He said I could have a six core made. Sadly, I think those days are over (at least for those of us who cannot spend $1K on a custom rad..).
 
I would try the $40.00 fix first.... one tube outta the whole radiator doesn't seem like it would change the heat transfer a whole lot....
 
I replaced mine with an aftermarket (might have been proliance) a few years ago and haven't looked back. No more cooling troubles and such. Mine's aluminum 2 core with plastic tanks. The fit was perfect as the original one and scrap aluminum is high, so you might get a couple bucks out of the old one if you tear it apart (brass inside, too).

If you have one row leaking now, you'll soon have more. How many times do you want to put $40 into it? The OEM one lasted this long - next one will last as long, too, probably.
 
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Yeah- I wondered about that. Is one leak an indication of more to come? It would be great to hear from people who have fixed a leak (i.e. soldered off a leaking tube, used epoxy or JB weld to stop the leak, etc.) about their rad's longevity after the surgery.

Thanks for the suggestions so far.

If you have one rol leaking now, you'll soon have more. How many times do you want to put $40 into it? The OEM one lasted this long - next one will last as long, too, probably.
 
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replaced mine last month, trouble ended up being a new fan clutch was bad. paid $307 ship and all. Radiator shop-old business in town- said boiling and replacing both tanks would fix, but being as old as is, he said to replace. The new one cools just fine pulling 7k lbs in Texas heat(205 deg max on hill)
 
I had wondered what made it a "towing" radiator that is above the factory unit. I find it hard to imagine one would need a heavier one than that of the factory unit. There are guys on here pulling heavy in heat and not having troubles with a fresh cooling system.
 
Thanks for the tips guys.

This whole "4 row vs 2 row" radiator core issue is still confusing me. The person who looked at my radiator said it was a 4 row. I understand this to be 4 rows of tubing going from tank to tank (and the tanks are plastic). When scanning the catalogs, it looks like my truck (1994 K1500) did not come with a 4 row. Perhaps the PO added an aftermarket rad?

I read that having 4 rows of tubes in the core slows the water down, and thus more of the BTUs are transferred from the water. If the water passes through the core tubing too quickly, the heat cannot transfer as well.

There is a science to this somewhere..
 
Thanks for the tips guys.

This whole "4 row vs 2 row" radiator core issue is still confusing me. The person who looked at my radiator said it was a 4 row. I understand this to be 4 rows of tubing going from tank to tank (and the tanks are plastic). When scanning the catalogs, it looks like my truck (1994 K1500) did not come with a 4 row. Perhaps the PO added an aftermarket rad?

I read that having 4 rows of tubes in the core slows the water down, and thus more of the BTUs are transferred from the water. If the water passes through the core tubing too quickly, the heat cannot transfer as well.

There is a science to this somewhere..
Hence the reason to use the ACDelco thermostat. That is why people who overheat and remove thier thermostats make the problem worse.
 
Aluminum rads. will have less cores than copper rads. because aluminum is stronger and the cores will be much wider. The depth of a 2 cor aluminum rad. is likely to be as thick or thicker than a 4 core copper rad.. Two years ago I replaced my factory 3 core (if I remember correctly) with a 2 core aluminum rad., the new aluminum rad. cools better than the original copper rad. even better then when the truck was new, I can't remember the manufacturer of the rad. I bought.
 
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