kenmatt
Active Member
could I and should I use waste oil in my fuel for lubrication of the injection pump
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question
- Thread starter kenmatt
- Start date
snarl95
Well-Known Member
What vehicle?
ak diesel driver
6.5 driver
Not unless you have the capability of putting it thru a centrifuge
Will L.
Well-Known Member
Also that depends on what ip you have. If you have a ds4 I say no even if you have a centrifuge. Dont mess with the optics.
If a db2 then yes, with a centrifuge but most people add too little. Why they use “free” oil then are stingy with it blows my mind. Engine oil is thicker viscosity than normal lubes and therefore requires a higher ratio because it wont mix into the fuel as easily.
(Please put your rig(s) in the signature line so we know what you have with each question)
I have (db2)taken used oil right from the oil change, filtered it and dumped the whole amount into the tank because there was no place to store it. It hurts nothing other than more carbon in the cylinder (wmi removes 100% of it) and the atmosphere. Free fuel and lube.
If you have a db0 or db4, then run more lube than normal db2 or ds4.
What oil you are using and what grade is a question also.
If a db2 then yes, with a centrifuge but most people add too little. Why they use “free” oil then are stingy with it blows my mind. Engine oil is thicker viscosity than normal lubes and therefore requires a higher ratio because it wont mix into the fuel as easily.
(Please put your rig(s) in the signature line so we know what you have with each question)
I have (db2)taken used oil right from the oil change, filtered it and dumped the whole amount into the tank because there was no place to store it. It hurts nothing other than more carbon in the cylinder (wmi removes 100% of it) and the atmosphere. Free fuel and lube.
If you have a db0 or db4, then run more lube than normal db2 or ds4.
What oil you are using and what grade is a question also.
kenmatt
Active Member
thanks for responding my vehicle is a 98 GMC k1500 mostly stock 269k . Been keeping me busy with repairs lately mostly due to rust and I guess bad luck but other than that she purrs'.
Will L.
Well-Known Member
Ok, you have a ds4.
No on the oil- buy the good stuff, but please add that info to your signature line for future stuff.
No on the oil- buy the good stuff, but please add that info to your signature line for future stuff.
I used to use all kinds of oil, back when I used to commute 70 miles one way to work. Not so much for the lubrication, but to help with the cost of the commute. I used WVO, UMO, biodiesel, kerosene and/or any mixture of them. Any thing that was used always went through a filter 2-5 microns, after I let it settle for a couple weeks. I would have to be careful not to use too much used diesel motor oil as It will get too dark to keep the optical sensor happy. Winter time was another story though.
kenmatt
Active Member
I thought I put that info in when I first joined in August 2017,being old school must have done something wrong I'll check into it if I can figure it out lol.
So you want to lube the IP? Looking at additive designed for diesel lube and sold as such: Figure $1200 for a new injection pump over 100,000 miles, injectors need rebuilt at 100K no matter what. $19 at the parts store gets diesel additive that treats 250 gal or ~10 tanks aka $1.90 per tank. So 100,000 miles untreated IP life costing $1200 say at 10 MPG is giving you $3.00 per tank to treat the fuel. Adjust average IP life and additional treated fuel IP life so the numbers make you feel better. Our 6.x stuff is cheap vs. a HPCR engine needing $3500 - 5000 for injectors alone.
FWIW I have run both the off the shelf as noted, biodiesel, and 2 stroke oil. The 2 Stroke is slightly harder to start and smokes more till the precups get hot. I don't have a cat converter as my year(s) met emissions requirements without them from the factory. Word: zinc and other metals in used engine oil will poison your cat if equipped. The poisoned cat quits working, cools off, and then plugs solid with carbon becoming what 6.5 owners refer to as a "soot trap".
Used oil from what?
Engines have abrasive to IP/injector carbon/soot in them maybe some water or coolant. X3 on The centrifuge advice @Will L. @ak diesel driver may need a little more in depth. Keep the cost of the equipment in mind with the above $1.90 per tank to treat it with off the shelf lube. Frugal is sometimes not chasing pennies with dollars.
Perhaps alternative fuel of waste oil then?
Waste oil in general has God doesn't even know what in it: Brake fluid, dust from brake job, PAG compressor oil, dirt, oil soaked very dead bugs, rainwater, a ground up ring and pinion debris in silver colored gear oil, diesel fuel, bad gasoline, antifreeze from pulling heads, sludge off a diesel fuel filter, ATF, and maybe some engine oil that is "done" overheated/out of grade/acidic, engine oil sludge... Hmmm... My used oil container may qualify for an EPA Superfund cleanup. I have had to dry up completely mixed oil and coolant from a complete engine failure like my avatar pic in kitty litter and be upwind on a burn day or drop the dried bricks in the trash.
So even if it's clean there is risk the oil is still harmful being completely used up and acidic. As un-approved alternative fuel the testing and other costs may pencil out. Road fuel tax avoidance fines and environmental EPA fines/concerns is a risk for alternative fuel approved or not.
FWIW I have run both the off the shelf as noted, biodiesel, and 2 stroke oil. The 2 Stroke is slightly harder to start and smokes more till the precups get hot. I don't have a cat converter as my year(s) met emissions requirements without them from the factory. Word: zinc and other metals in used engine oil will poison your cat if equipped. The poisoned cat quits working, cools off, and then plugs solid with carbon becoming what 6.5 owners refer to as a "soot trap".
Used oil from what?
Engines have abrasive to IP/injector carbon/soot in them maybe some water or coolant. X3 on The centrifuge advice @Will L. @ak diesel driver may need a little more in depth. Keep the cost of the equipment in mind with the above $1.90 per tank to treat it with off the shelf lube. Frugal is sometimes not chasing pennies with dollars.
Perhaps alternative fuel of waste oil then?
Waste oil in general has God doesn't even know what in it: Brake fluid, dust from brake job, PAG compressor oil, dirt, oil soaked very dead bugs, rainwater, a ground up ring and pinion debris in silver colored gear oil, diesel fuel, bad gasoline, antifreeze from pulling heads, sludge off a diesel fuel filter, ATF, and maybe some engine oil that is "done" overheated/out of grade/acidic, engine oil sludge... Hmmm... My used oil container may qualify for an EPA Superfund cleanup. I have had to dry up completely mixed oil and coolant from a complete engine failure like my avatar pic in kitty litter and be upwind on a burn day or drop the dried bricks in the trash.
So even if it's clean there is risk the oil is still harmful being completely used up and acidic. As un-approved alternative fuel the testing and other costs may pencil out. Road fuel tax avoidance fines and environmental EPA fines/concerns is a risk for alternative fuel approved or not.
Will L.
Well-Known Member
About the centrifuge option
a 120 volt powered centrifuge. This is a set up that filters 60 gallons per hour, and cycling the product through twice is the normal thing to do. To properly centrifuge the oil it needs to be heated to 195 f (standard is 200f, but honestly 195 is slightly better). This will strip the oil to 1/10 of 1 micron. In other words perfectly clean of all contaminates.
If one were to buy this just for additive, that would be a waste of money. However, if you were to use it to periodically clean the engine oil in all your cars to extend the oil life, along with differential oil, manual (not automatic) transmission fluid, etc. Then it will pay for itself. How long is based on your personal situation. For people with db2, you could easily use it for wmo as fuel and it would break even quickly, for me I figured out $700 including getting 3 used clean barrels and buying the gasoline to cut into the wmo. I don't think I would do that with a ds4 however.
a 120 volt powered centrifuge. This is a set up that filters 60 gallons per hour, and cycling the product through twice is the normal thing to do. To properly centrifuge the oil it needs to be heated to 195 f (standard is 200f, but honestly 195 is slightly better). This will strip the oil to 1/10 of 1 micron. In other words perfectly clean of all contaminates.
If one were to buy this just for additive, that would be a waste of money. However, if you were to use it to periodically clean the engine oil in all your cars to extend the oil life, along with differential oil, manual (not automatic) transmission fluid, etc. Then it will pay for itself. How long is based on your personal situation. For people with db2, you could easily use it for wmo as fuel and it would break even quickly, for me I figured out $700 including getting 3 used clean barrels and buying the gasoline to cut into the wmo. I don't think I would do that with a ds4 however.
kenmatt
Active Member
money is not the driving force behind my question I am by no means frugal. Just this lube in fuel thing is fairly new to me. I guess my question should have read what should I be using for lubrication and what should I be staying away from. Till now I have been using what P.O. Has been using which he gave me 4 gallons with the sale of the truck.some sort of bio additive.
JMJNet
Recruit
2 cycle oil seems to be very popular based on the study done at DieselPlace forum called diesel additive study.
Of course, most diesel additive should add some lubricity to their formula by now.
What I do now is add Diesel Additive (currently used Stanadyne) plus 2 cycle oil at a rate of 1/2 oz per gallon of fuel.
Of course, most diesel additive should add some lubricity to their formula by now.
What I do now is add Diesel Additive (currently used Stanadyne) plus 2 cycle oil at a rate of 1/2 oz per gallon of fuel.
MrMarty51
Well-Known Member
YUP, the Stanadyne additive and the two stroke oil is the ticket.
I think it was mentioned You had the Stanadyne, did not go back to see. LOL