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Project Non Typical

Non Typical

Non Typical

Roller of the Smoke
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Location
Kelowna, BC
This is going to be my build thread for Project Non Typical.
I choose the username Non Typical as the name of the truck.
She just turned over 396,000 kms (247,500 miles), last week.
I finally pulled both heads of the build engine and was really happy with what i saw. The truck that the engine came out of was a 93 with 327,000 kms on it. Both heads are crack free, or at least appear to be after a wipe down and quick session with the wire brush. No cracks between valves, which is very nice to see. They are going into a shop for cleaning and pressure testing. The absence of cracks with the mileage of the truck makes me wonder if they aren't the original heads. Pistons and cylinder walls look beautiful.

Talked to Bill Heath for 20 minutes this afternoon. After my experience with SSD, talking with a guy like Bill was awesome. All I have got to say about his truck is, holy crap, the guy knows what he is doing. I am planning to follow his advice for the build. If anyone saw my original list of upgrades, there has been a few major changes. No timing gears, no low compression, no girdle, no HX-40. I think I will go with an HX-35 and a really good intake system. Also a Scat crank.

Will be getting up pictures soon.
 
What is the reason for not wanting the gears?

I was told and have read that the gears are better. The timing chain as it stretches makes the motors timing be off. This happens over time and not over night. This is the main reason I want gears.

Just curious!
 
buddy said:
Why no girdle? to cut costs or actual reason?

I like having high compression, so can't fault you there!
Click to expand...

Talking with Bill, he said the only girdle that he knows of on the market, is the DSG, which only ties the middle 3 together, and in his opinion, can cause more damage. He says that main studs are all that are needed and he is using them on his bonneville truck. considering the power it's putting out, i figure they are all that's needed. and yes, cost is part of that issue too.

Same thing with gears. he feels they are a waste of money.

Basically, I am going on that he pulled apart a 300,000 mile engine, re-used a bunch of parts, and has done phenomenal things with it.

I'll probably get some stuff from DSG, but I now feel I can lower overall build cost.

I found surprising the fact that he is running higher than stock compression. I am wondering, if you are putting in higher boost level and more fuel with that high compression, what type of head gaskets would you need?

Wondering if I should bother to keep all the rollers, lifters, and pushrods matched or not.
 
Remember, that is one man's opinion on things.

The new Optimizer engines actually come with a cast iron girdle, thats the P400. I wonder if that girdle can even be found. there are others that have built up more of these engines than Heath that install girdles.

Gears, again, one man's cup of tea isnt another's. I'd stick with chains myself, because I wouldnt want to transfer more vibration through the gears, where the chain would dampen it. Chains that last 250K miles are good enough by me.

We havent seen the end of the landspeed cruiser story, once they get into really adding power you might see something to strengthen the bottom end. If I can get my chip'd truck to go 110MPH down the highway with a GM4 and 4L80E at 2900RPM, 153MPH isnt impressing me too much on twin turbo with better gearing. Granted that truck can probably do it much more reliably.
 
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i agree on the opinion. i guess what i am basing it off of is the fact that he is actively involved in pushing this project, and unlike many other guys, seems to be very open and approachable.

I looked at the DSG girdle. Maybe if it was a complete girdle, then i might consider it. cost factor plays here as well. i don't plan on making near the same power that Bill is, so i don't think i will need it then.

i talked with a few guys about the transfer of vibrations through the gears, and most of them said that wasn't really a problem. i guess again, it comes down to is it worth it.

the bonneville truck actually hit 158 mph, average was 153 mph. they feel that when they get another shot, they can easily push it over 165. Which is over 265 kmh. faster than i have ever driven.
 
JASONSMACK @ the other site has pics of a girdle he machined out of solid stock that spans over the whole crank.
 
As for the timing gears... I steered away from them in my 383 stroker because I read stuff about harmonics, but now I have changed my mind for two reasons.

1. The gears provide more accurate timing, which creates less of a pressure differential between cylinders, and therefore a smoother turning crankshaft.

I agree with Matt, at speeds above 130 mph (just my experience) it takes a significantly larger increase in power to push the vehichle faster. Basically 10 mph faster may take 25 more hp, then 20 additional mph may take 60 more hp.

2. I thought up an innovative way to dampen those vibrations (if there is any) created by the timing gears. I actually plan on using it on the injector pump gears as well. I'll let you guys know how it works after I've run it for a while. I just don't want someone to try it before me, then come back and say "I did what you said and now my engine needs a rebuild"
 
The little girdles do little to help the 6.5 IMHO

I am in the process of doing a build on my DaHoooley
929 Block. Lock and stitch inserted center outer bolt holes with 12mm bolts.

Currently the plan is to use either a scat crank or one of the new Forged units from Peninsular.
Final choice will be made first of the week when I get the price quote from Peninsular on there crank.

19.8:1 pistons from Zollner.
Stock rings, stock cam with chain and sprockets.
Likely will use Clearwater heads. Burb has a set with 40K now and no issues.

The P400 has the girdle which includes the main caps as an integral part of the structure.

Totally different than slapping a couple pieces of angle in the basement.

The bottom ends of these things crack for several reasons.
1 castings that are not well seasoned.
2 Stress risers all over in the bottom that were not cleaned up.
3 Poor choices in metalurgy.
4 a crank that acts like a limp noodle under heavy stress.
5 A block design that is just a tad too light in all the wrong places.

Add it all up and the numbers of failure are higher than they should be.

A good non squirt block that is crack free or that has very small cracks that are within the outer bolt holes is the best foundation to use.

All the outer main bolt holes on the center 3 need to be inserted even if they are not cracked.
This repair stops old cracks from expanding and stops new ones from forming.

The stress placed by the threads of the bolt is no longer there. The insert has reverse tapered threads that pull the area together and the insert is completely contained and does not allow the spreading moment when the bolts are torqued.

Just some good info IMHO

MGW
 
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