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Project Gallopin' Gerdy

Thanks for the tips guys.

Unfortunately murphy reared his head and after a valiant 12hr attempt she is not quite ready to fire.

It seamed like everything was a fight... the glows were a bear ( probably should have left them out for cranking per the above advice ). I know I should remove the inner fender to make life easier but every inner fender I have removed turns into a fight. The crossover fought me... it was not right last time and I decided to make it right. The engine to tranny bolts were a pita. Then these motors have so much stuff on them ( spoiled by small blocks with a carb and no computer, have swapped a small block starting at 8 ( old motor still in the truck ) or so in the morning and been driving down the road at 4 in the afternoon ). Finally at around seven last night spun her over and boy she turns over great.... sounds almost like a gasser as far as cranking speed. By far she turns over better than any diesel I have heard. Let her cool and let her fly again. This time the oil pressure came up to 60+ on the gauge. So while the starter cools I am checking connections, etc and I hear air escaping. Start looking around and finally under the truck and oil is on the ground. Turns out one of the oil cooler lines is not hooked up correctly. And it is the inside one and this a 4x4 so I will have take the oil filter off and hopefully not the exhaust manifold to correct the problem so almost there.

I will probably remove the glows on the drivers side and I learned a couple of other things last cranking session so I think she will fire alot quicker this time. Need to hook up the turbo to intake piping, the downpipe, and fix the oil leak but other that she is done. Raining today and this is a driveway project ( no room in the garage ) so looks like I am waiting for the weather to clear.
 
Its alive! After a bit of frustration and embarrassment ( cannot believe I missed hooking up a ground ( cannot believe it actually worked without the ground for awhile )) she started and I took a small drive. She runs very smooth, the oil pressure is about 50 even after she reaches operating temp. Builds boost and runs cool. She is smoking a bit as the new rings need to seat. I also need to hook up the tuna can and that may help. Cautiously optimistic at the moment. After a truck crashes and burns they have to rebuild the trust. Maybe I can get some pics tomorrow of the motor in the truck and the truck somewhere other than the driveway.
 
Great! good job.

Thanks.

A little to early to celebrate. She has some timing issues, egts are high, she is still smoking, and she is missing. Alot of the problems appear to be air getting in the injection system. If I solve that problem I am thinking it will help the smoking and high egts. I am also backing the pump back a bit to clear the low rpm "ratte". I backed it up a couple mms yesterday and that seemed to help. Anyone in the area have the ability to time an obd1 truck? I am also wondering if the chip is off a bit. I called Heath yesterday and did not speak to Bill though. The person I spoke to said it was timing. I am not getting codes. I am thinking the chip calibrations are off since I have changed from a 6.5 with factory cups to a 6.2 with diamond precups. It runs great above 2000rpms the rattle is only between 1500-2000. It seems like almost two much early rpm advance has been dialed in the chip. The pump is almost vertical now. If I have to start rotating to the passenger side of the truck then I am thinking that it is the chip since the pump would now be retarded. Any thoughts?
 
Pump timing is only effected at idle to just over idle w/ manual adjustments. The PCM controls timing advance through the RPM range.
 
Finally had some time to put the skid plate on, the center caps, and the work on the running issues. Found a massive fuel leak which was the bulk of the problem. Now I am waiting on getting the timing fully sorted... convinced it is a chip issue. Gonna call and see if I can talk to Bill tomorrow. Gave the ol girl a quick bath and snapped a couple pics.
 

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Well finally pulled the motor today and removed the cylinder head and nothing visibly appeared wrong.:WTF::???:

Checked the injector line and it is clear. The rattle disappeared when I ran the truck with that cylinder deactivated. I guess at this point I am down to wrist pin, camshaft, or rings.

I guess I am going to have to dig a little deeper. The plan is to throw in Little Ds motor and run the turbomaster and Heath tune for awhile to get this thing running. Then Little D will get this motor with a few more upgrades.;)

BTW the marks on the piston are from rapping on the piston with the handle end of a screwdriver.
 

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That thing is sure running rich!

It was definitely getting fuel! It has mostly idled for the last two months as I tried to diagnose the problem and I think that may have loaded her up. I do not know if it shows up in the pics but the #5 cylinder has a different appearance/ color. It more grey. The last injector in there was a standard bosch injector not a kennedy high pop. Either the injector was putting out less fuel or that cylinder was running differently than the rest. Stilled showed a cylinder imbalance and still made the rattle with the standard injector in. The only time the rattle/noise went away was when I deactivated that cylinder and drove it on seven...
 
Well the weather finally broke enough to get the motor in from Little D. Installed a Trans Dapt remote oil filter this time and I had to fab a bracket to remote mount the oil filter to the side of the trans. Installed the OPS extension from Leroy Diesel. Put the GM-5 turbo from Larry on with the Turbomaster. Also installed the Heath tune from Little D. After topping off the fluids she fired right up with no drama and runs great. Took her for a quick spin to top off the fuel tank and then took the long way home. Runs and drives great. Glad to finally have her up and running!
 

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Looks good.

I googled the Trans Dapt 1122 filter re-locator and their website says it won't work on these trucks. It seems to have worked for you.
 
Find out the issue yet? :hihi:

Nope. The the 6.2 is sitting in the corner of the garage at the moment. I am debating weather to use that motor in Little D or should I look into a Teds block.

Thanks NVW. I also saw the same thing on Trans Dapts applications. However I know the 6.5 uses a small block oil filter and when I did a google search all the home built systems started with a small block Chevy adapter so I figured why would it not work. Works great the only issue is the filter size. It takes a half quart PH3600. My solution to that problem is to short change just the oil filter every 2000k. I figure part of the "lost" half quart is made up for by the extra oil in the new filter to adapter lines. Oil pressure is great and the new lines, sandwich adapter, and new oil filter base are not leaking. If I had to do it again I would into a system with a larger filter base.
 
Find out the issue yet? :hihi:

Nope. The the 6.2 is sitting in the corner of the garage at the moment. I am debating weather to use that motor in Little D or should I look into a Teds block.

Thanks NVW. I also saw the same thing on Trans Dapts applications. However I know the 6.5 uses a small block oil filter and when I did a google search all the home built systems started with a small block Chevy adapter so I figured why would it not work. Works great the only issue is the filter size. It takes a half quart PH3600. My solution to that problem is to short change just the oil filter every 2000k. I figure part of the "lost" half quart is made up for by the extra oil in the new filter to adapter lines. Oil pressure is great and the new lines, sandwich adapter, and new oil filter base are not leaking. If I had to do it again I would into a system with a larger filter base.
 
I see they also have a dual filter setup, that would make up for the lost oil volume.
 
I see they also have a dual filter setup, that would make up for the lost oil volume.

Yes I looked at that as well before I knew about the smaller filter.... thought one would be fine. If you go the dual route you will mostly likely have to buy more hose as the kit only comes with 2 2' pieces of hose. On Gerty I have The Walbro and remote filter mounted in the empty space on the drivers side of the if the trans. With more hose and some 90^ fittings one could mount everything under the skid plate up front. Probably a better location anyway as everything is tight with the transfer case and driveshaft.

On another note I removed the firewall insulation as it was falling apart and the noise in the cab is almost no different. Might have to remove that stuff from the rest of the fleet!
 
Well my wife saved the ol girl from the chopping block. She decided she wanted to keep the truck so after we cannibalized some parts for T we decided in the interest of time and money to use what we had laying around. So we used the GM3 with the spring can for a turbo. Used some of the exhaust from T and added some extra parts. Took the Flowmaster dp and added the two bolt connection flange from T. Surprisingly this set up sounds awesome- like a Cummins and a tractor trailer in one. The best 6.5 exhaust note I have heard- and it was by accident! Got her running and she is back up and running!
 

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