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Problem with my JD 310A

hoot

hoot

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There was at least a pint of water in the bottom of the tank when I drained it. Apparently the fuel valve has a standpipe that keeps it from drawing water at the bottom. Bad part is there is no drain for the lower portion so water stays there.

I just pulled the fuel tank cause it was leaking probably six pinholes on the bottom. I used NAPA Heavy Duty repair kits.... four of them. They are two part epoxy and fiberglass. Very aggressive stuff. Hardens almost before you have time to apply it. I did do extensive prep work making sure all surface rust was cleaned up and I alcohol'd it down.

I epoxied the whole underside of the tank. Than I por 15'd the thing.

Here is my problem. After putting it back together she started right up. But after 10 minutes it slowed and then stalled. Now it won't run for more than a couple of minutes and then stalls. I bled the air. The fuel pump is pumping pretty good on the outlet side. The fuel filter was new not long ago. I see no water in the clear bowl under the filter. Fuel is pushing out when I crack the fitting at the injection pump.

It's acting like it's starving for fuel. No throttle response.

If it sits a couple of minutes it starts right up, runs a couple... shuts off. Repeats

I guess the first thing to do is change the fuel filter. Maybe somehow it's restricting just enough to starve it.
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Water plugs a filter fast,you may have water seperator before the filter too somewhere,it restricts or shuts of flow when its full.Take the inlet fitting out of the IP,most have a last ditch screen on them,it could be plugged as well
 
Thanks guys.

I'm gonna just do the smart thing first and change the fuel filter. When I think about it, because it runs and then slow and stops, it could be the pump starving because of filter restriction. When I shut it down the filter relieves a bit and it has fuel to run again.

I cross referenced the filter to a NAPA number so I may be able to call my local NAPA store and if they don't have it they might be able to get it fast. JD place is 35 miles away and not open conveniently.

It's flowing fuel very freely from the outlet of the tank. I installed a brand new line from the tank to the metal line going to the fuel pump. Fuel flow great there. The cam operated transfer pump is working cause fuel is pumping out the outlet quite well. From there it goes to the fuel filter and through another metal line to the injection pump. Very simple circuit. No separate water separator.

I'll check for a last ditch screen at the IP.


Mike
 
I changed out the fuel filter. There was a lot of black sludge in the bottom of the glass bowl. I figured this would fix it. I also pulled the fitting out of the injector pump. It has a screen. It looked clean but I cleaned it and blew it out with air.

Still not fixed. It starts. Runs a few seconds then a puff of white smoke and shuts down. There is a fuel shutoff solenoid wire going to the IP. I'm gonna jump it to battery. Maybe the wire going to it is bad... or weak.

Might just get a fuel pump anyway even if it seems to be pumping. It looks original so I don't mind the $40.

Could end up being a bad ip.
 
Could be air in the IP that needs to bleed out. I had that happen on an old Fordson, it took awhile before it ran right.
 
I 'm able to keep it running with the return line disconnected from the top of the IP. Today I'll clear out the return line ... see if I get anywhere.
 
yep,i forgot about that one,return line restriction could be a culprit.

I had that once on a AC with a roosamaster IP ,had a dead bee stuck in the return line T right at the IP.
I have'nt a clue how it got in there,
 
Bingo.... mouse turds.

I did post earlier that I did remove the fitting with screen and valve. It seemed clean and not obstructed. I blew it out but that didn't help. I'm assuming there is a clog inside the pump?

Bottom line... please help me out here. I'm mechanically inclined and have no issues tackling rebuilding the pump. Can you provide a list of everything I need to do this. Parts and tools? I don't have the rebuild manual. I have the two main manuals. It doesn't go into the pump.

I want to upgrade the gov also. Same time I'll replace the lift pump. Any particular model I should go with. I see the replacements online I just like recommendations from those in the know.

Thank you very much... everyone so far helping out. I'll do a picture writeup of the pump rebuild for all to see.

Also should I pull the injectors while I'm at it or do one thing at a time? Leave the injectors alone?

The water on the IP is cause it just rained.

PS... Just ordered the SM 2045 manual. $45 shipped

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I can help you with that,I just rebuild one of these roosamasters last week,looks identical to yours,not much to it.

I would look at the transfer pump first,cause your issue could be only there.

I you want to tackle the whole pump,take the top of first,cause you have to extract the metering valve from the rotor head before you can remove the head.
Then pull the governor lever shaft from the housing(front of pump,2 little cap nuts,one on each side)and remove the spring guide bolt (Other end of pump).
That way you can remove the whole gov spring/lever setup out of the pump.
Be careful removing the 3 bolts holding the head in.The internal O rings on the bolts have a tendency to stay behind(stuck to the housing)and it can cause the treads on the bolts to mar the housing bores and will cause sealing issues later on.
 
Great!

By the way the mouse turd I was referring to is those little black pieces you see running down the side of the block. I was told to open the inspection plate and if black things came out the governor had fallen apart. Rebuild is a must.
 
yea,there is a rubber spacer/cushioning washer between the camring and governor body(its part of it),if that disintegrates it will have effect on the gov,it gets in between the cam and rollers too.

take note how the cam ring is in there,the activating pin on the bottom is offset to the lobe ,so you can flip it over for CCW operation
 
I will be reviewing this when I get the parts and get started. Thanks again.
BTW there is an upgrade gov that changes to a metal design.
 
Lotta work involved there. I hope you had a book for reference and a guide.
Thanks for the update and nice to see you come around again.
 
btfarm said:
Lotta work involved there. I hope you had a book for reference and a guide.
Thanks for the update and nice to see you come around again.
Click to expand...

Yea I found someone on another site that helped out too. I bought the book. It was a life saver.

Here's my truck these days..
 

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