Matt Bachand
Depends on the 6.5
What is the recommended way to apply this?
Does it spray?
If so, HVLP or conventional system?
Does it have to be cut?
Does it spray?
If so, HVLP or conventional system?
Does it have to be cut?
-
Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.
Your truck knowledge is missing!
- Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
- We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
- Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
- NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
Problems registering? Click here to contact us!
Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!
POR-15
- Thread starter Matt Bachand
- Start date
- Staff
- #2
Here is a no read instructions from the por 15 website;
http://www.por15.com/Data Sheets/no read directions.pdf
IS IT BETTER TO BRUSH OR SPRAY POR-15?
Most people brush it on due to its leveling characteristics however it
may also be sprayed. Proper equipment and organic vapor particulate
respirators for solvents are essential for spraying.
Above from this link;
http://www.por15.com/Data Sheets/POR15ApplicationInfo.pdf
Hope this helps! :thumbsup:
Let me know how this goes because I want to do my frame with this stuff! Thanks!
http://www.por15.com/Data Sheets/no read directions.pdf
IS IT BETTER TO BRUSH OR SPRAY POR-15?
Most people brush it on due to its leveling characteristics however it
may also be sprayed. Proper equipment and organic vapor particulate
respirators for solvents are essential for spraying.
Above from this link;
http://www.por15.com/Data Sheets/POR15ApplicationInfo.pdf
Hope this helps! :thumbsup:
Let me know how this goes because I want to do my frame with this stuff! Thanks!
iamdave0887
Here Comes Chaos.....
after seeing the holes in my project truck i've really been debating is i should POR-15 the underside of the new floors i'll be putting in this weekend and the following week. POR-15 is just so pricey, but i've heard wonders about it.
It seems to be better to brush it on but i do'nt see why it can't be sprayed. It is technically a paint it seems.
It seems to be better to brush it on but i do'nt see why it can't be sprayed. It is technically a paint it seems.
qwomack
JP5 Junkie
It's great stuff. I brush it on. With holes, it works real good. I use it with fiberglass mat and it cures up good and solid. While it is expensive (about $40 a quart), if you seal it up properly after every use, it will last a long time.
STEVE53
Member
I used POR-15 on the floors on my 1985 chevy and it works very well. They say to use their marine clean, which is a degreaser first then metal prep which converts remaining rust and leaves a phosphate coating. Large scale should be removed first with a wire brush or wheel. Applications of the marine clean and metal prep need to be rinsed with water and dried before applying por-15. It is only good for use where it will not be exposed to direct sunlight because it is not uv resistant, but they also sell a primer to be used on top of the por-15 that will allow conventional paint to adhere to it. The stuff is awesome because it dries rock hard.
Steve
Steve
It is a cyanoacrylic-based paint, just like super glue - you have a very limited time to get it out of the container and onto the project, or it dries rock-hard in the container, on the brush, on the project, in any threaded holes on the project, on your hands (and nitrile gloves), clothes, etc - just put a small amount in a clean margarine tub, use it, toss the brush - flex the tub to loosen and remove the hardened crust, add more to the empty tub, use new brush
Once moisture in the air hits the stuff, you're doomed if you can't finish soon, and any unused quantity is rock - therefore, punch a small hole in the gallon container, pour only what you need, immediately plug the hole, and get after it - use a file or power-sander to smooth-out any imperfections - the better the brush, the less the imperfection - the less humidity the better
Wonderful stuff for sealing-off metalwork from H2O and resultant oxidation and rust-formation
Once moisture in the air hits the stuff, you're doomed if you can't finish soon, and any unused quantity is rock - therefore, punch a small hole in the gallon container, pour only what you need, immediately plug the hole, and get after it - use a file or power-sander to smooth-out any imperfections - the better the brush, the less the imperfection - the less humidity the better
Wonderful stuff for sealing-off metalwork from H2O and resultant oxidation and rust-formation
Last edited:
packratt
Active Member
I've gotten that stuff on me and it just has to wear off. I sure wouldn't want to inhale that crap.
They say you can spray it but I wouldn't use my good sprayer for it. If I was to spray POR15 I'd use a Harbor Freight sprayer. The problem with the cheap sprayers is they waste so much paint due to their spray characteristics. At $40 a quart I'd rather have no waste and use a brush.
They say you can spray it but I wouldn't use my good sprayer for it. If I was to spray POR15 I'd use a Harbor Freight sprayer. The problem with the cheap sprayers is they waste so much paint due to their spray characteristics. At $40 a quart I'd rather have no waste and use a brush.
midniteplowboyy
Recruit
What are you painting Matt?
You can spray it, I have before, but get you a good respirator, its some bad arsed stuff. If you want to paint over it, primer it while it still slightly tacky, or you'll have to sand it a couple of days later for it to adhere, it dries to a real slick finish that topcoats wont adhere to.
I cant remember what you thin it with, but it needs a little dilution for spraying. I usually just use a brush, its thin enough that it levels pretty good. I use it all the time patching rust hole around the farm, Por-15 and some poly cloth and you can patch about anything, its tougher than fiberglass resin. I've patched two inch wide holes in the bottom of my old combine that's held for years.
IIRC, sunlight doesn't hurt it, it just may discolor it, I haven't noticed problem though.
I usually buy the quart cans, I can usually get it all used up before it sets up on me between projects. Triple line the lid with saran wrap or you might rip the top of the can off next time and store in the fridge once opened. Pour out only the amount you need for the project, never pour it back into the original can(guaranteed to set up).
If I remember I'll take some pics of my stock trailer I Por-15 the bottom section and topcoated with primer/acrylic enamel twelve years ago, it still looks pretty good.
You can spray it, I have before, but get you a good respirator, its some bad arsed stuff. If you want to paint over it, primer it while it still slightly tacky, or you'll have to sand it a couple of days later for it to adhere, it dries to a real slick finish that topcoats wont adhere to.
I cant remember what you thin it with, but it needs a little dilution for spraying. I usually just use a brush, its thin enough that it levels pretty good. I use it all the time patching rust hole around the farm, Por-15 and some poly cloth and you can patch about anything, its tougher than fiberglass resin. I've patched two inch wide holes in the bottom of my old combine that's held for years.
IIRC, sunlight doesn't hurt it, it just may discolor it, I haven't noticed problem though.
I usually buy the quart cans, I can usually get it all used up before it sets up on me between projects. Triple line the lid with saran wrap or you might rip the top of the can off next time and store in the fridge once opened. Pour out only the amount you need for the project, never pour it back into the original can(guaranteed to set up).
If I remember I'll take some pics of my stock trailer I Por-15 the bottom section and topcoated with primer/acrylic enamel twelve years ago, it still looks pretty good.
Matt Bachand
Depends on the 6.5
I'm interested in painting my undercarriage. Which would be ideal with a spray gun vs brush.
Perhaps I'll use some carquest stuff that supposedly cures the rust and seals it rock hard too, 70bux a gallon. I'll spray that easy.
POR-15 sounds really thick, like bedliner? Would a gallon go a long way? Think a gallon would do my entire utility body w/roller? Or would it leave a pad lines/texture?
Perhaps I'll use some carquest stuff that supposedly cures the rust and seals it rock hard too, 70bux a gallon. I'll spray that easy.
POR-15 sounds really thick, like bedliner? Would a gallon go a long way? Think a gallon would do my entire utility body w/roller? Or would it leave a pad lines/texture?
packratt
Active Member
No it's about as thick as the quart cans of Rustoleum.
Matt Bachand
Depends on the 6.5
When I sprayed that I cut it with Xylol I think it was. IT did ok, i did the entire frame but it only lasted 1 year good, after 2 winters it was completely gone. My goal is to not only make it look nice, so when I'm under there fixing things It doesn't feel like a POS. My other goal is to slow down the rust. I don't think anything will stop it, but just want to keep it to a minumum.
It felt good the other day to wrap up my oil lines, and clean some other things, removing skidplate and such, and my hands had one small black spot of grease/oil on it. Wiped it off with a rag
midniteplowboyy
Recruit
Actually its pretty thin, thinner than alot of paints.
For the underside just use a brush, it'll turn out looking just fine, plus you can get in all the nooks and crannies better without runs. It levels so well, I doubt you could tell the difference between a brush or a gun on something not smooth like a frame rail with surface rust.
Save the spray gun and lungs for big flat panels where perfect smooth appearance is a must.
I'd buy two quarts and try it on the underside first, to see how you like it. I dont think I'd paint the outside, but you could, kinda exspensive, spray that part. I'd paint the bed area to protect it from the dirt and moisture it will accumulate.
I dont know about the roller Ideal, I dont think it levels that well, it would work just might not be purdy.
To me when it dries it closely resembles powder coat the way it levels, its glossy, slick and hard.
For the underside just use a brush, it'll turn out looking just fine, plus you can get in all the nooks and crannies better without runs. It levels so well, I doubt you could tell the difference between a brush or a gun on something not smooth like a frame rail with surface rust.
Save the spray gun and lungs for big flat panels where perfect smooth appearance is a must.
I'd buy two quarts and try it on the underside first, to see how you like it. I dont think I'd paint the outside, but you could, kinda exspensive, spray that part. I'd paint the bed area to protect it from the dirt and moisture it will accumulate.
I dont know about the roller Ideal, I dont think it levels that well, it would work just might not be purdy.
To me when it dries it closely resembles powder coat the way it levels, its glossy, slick and hard.
mr_goodwrench_06
New Member
- Messages
- 106
- Reaction score
- 1
I'd like to paint an entire truck in that stuff. No more scratches, EVER!!! LOL
Detroit Dan
New Member
I got a gallon of stuff called Zero Rust, from it's description it sounded exactly like POR-15. It doesn't like to come off the skin much better than POR-15 does, so it must be similar. But I've had a gallon can for years and it hasn't hurt it to open it up and reclose it. I've peeled the skin off it after a year and used it to paint small items then closed it up again. I think I got it from JC Whitney, or maybe Eastwoods. I forget now it's been so long. But I remember it was considerably cheaper than POR.
I used to spraybomb my framerails with black Rustoleum until I figured out a good way to spray waste oil. The dirty black diesel oil helps stain it pretty well in my opinion, but I'm thinking about mixing in some Zero Rust or black Rustoleum next time I spray it, just to see if it makes it look blacker and/or last longer.
I used to spraybomb my framerails with black Rustoleum until I figured out a good way to spray waste oil. The dirty black diesel oil helps stain it pretty well in my opinion, but I'm thinking about mixing in some Zero Rust or black Rustoleum next time I spray it, just to see if it makes it look blacker and/or last longer.