Pole Barn Garage

[dbrannon79]

50 ft is a lot of property that can't be messed with!! I haven't heard of this. here in our area inside the city I thought it was a 4-6 ft boundary for buildings. our house there is barley enough room for me to walk between the side of the house and the fence which is on the property line. I know if there is a major highway or county road it's a little different.

 

[DieselSlug]

50 ft is a lot of property that can't be messed with!! I haven't heard of this. here in our area inside the city I thought it was a 4-6 ft boundary for buildings. our house there is barley enough room for me to walk between the side of the house and the fence which is on the property line. I know if there is a major highway or county road it's a little different.

Yup, nothing like government dictating what you can do with your land. Road setback is 100-feet, 50-feet on the sides and back. So thats 2.13 ares of my 5.13 I cant do a thing on structurally.

I guess its keeps us rural folks rural though.

 

[ak diesel driver]

I'd be talking to them about a reduction in property taxes since they just stole that land from you

 

[jrsavoie]

Been raining now stop, of course causing pounding in my only low area.

One new issue is that setback now requires 50-foot from the property line. Back when I planned and commenced the site work it was only 25-feet. This now puts me right up against my slope to the grass. We will need further grading down the road.

Of course now this puts me right in the low area where the water is ponding. Before I was a good 8 feet on the highway side of this area with my plan to run a French drain through the center. Thanks government.

Can you get an adjustment?

A friend built his garage too tall, too wide and too long.

When all was said and done, they fined him $500 and all was good

 

[DieselSlug]

Not sure I will have to ask.

I know there was a house built and the garage jutted out to within some distance of the road, and they made the contractor tear it down and move it back. Im trying to get some info on it.

 

[dbrannon79]

I was gonna say sometimes it's better to ask for forgiveness than permission!! if the building was already plotted and okayed and permitted according to the drawings......

on the other side I wouldn't want to be the guy the city / county is upset at or out to get from all the hoopla. I've been on that end of the stick with our city a few years ago LOL

 

[DieselSlug]

So I reached back out to the Codes guy and confirmed the setbacks are regulation in my Town. Nuts....

There is a variance process, which he gave me the paperwork to. Another 7 sheets of crap that has to go infront of the board for approval. Im going to propose 30-foot setback. Even with this setback we are still over 200-feet from my neighbors house with many trees in between.

On the other front one of the contractors has seemed to drop off the face of the planet. Im not going to lie, to commit $50K im going to be a bit needy through the quote process as I am a detailed individual. I've had hard feelings about his comms the whole time.

 

[schiker]

Yeah residential construction is a battle of communication. Commercial is a battle of documentation.

That would be a red flag for me. Usually the quote process and honeymoon phase comms are good at least decent. Then comms degrade over project.

These pre construction meetings are important to set expectations. How many projects have you done? I am no expert but have done a couple.

I hope I’m not preaching to choir here. I can add or back off. This should be the honeymoon.
You should have a contract, check lists, updates, schedules, draw schedule, inspections (personal and county) , change order procedures and mark up fees pre determined etc etc. Trust but verify everything. Take picture, sketches, and notes of as built everything especially things that get covered up or underground. Good to get a list of suppliers/vendors and any subs.

Deposit. Get some interim release of lien for materials and any labor for this deposit negotiate for some % complete release if deposit is much more than material costs.

Draw schedules are notorious for front loading and usually bank controlled or inspired. Banks aren’t constructors and their draw schedules don’t reconcile easily and usually don’t have good retention.

 

[DieselSlug]

Yeah residential construction is a battle of communication. Commercial is a battle of documentation.

That would be a red flag for me. Usually the quote process and honeymoon phase comms are good at least decent. Then comms degrade over project.

These pre construction meetings are important to set expectations. How many projects have you done? I am no expert but have done a couple.

I hope I’m not preaching to choir here. I can add or back off. This should be the honeymoon.
You should have a contract, check lists, updates, schedules, draw schedule, inspections (personal and county) , change order procedures and mark up fees pre determined etc etc. Trust but verify everything. Take picture, sketches, and notes of as built everything especially things that get covered up or underground. Good to get a list of suppliers/vendors and any subs.

Deposit. Get some interim release of lien for materials and any labor for this deposit negotiate for some % complete release if deposit is much more than material costs.

Draw schedules are notorious for front loading and usually bank controlled or inspired. Banks aren’t constructors and their draw schedules don’t reconcile easily and usually don’t have good retention.

Your on point.

So i've never done jobs like this for my "personal" career I've never been able to afford (I guess more justify paying someone else to do something I could), so I always did it myself. This is really a first in my personal life using a contractor to do something at my house. On my day job side (specialty contracting), I do it all the time. Estimating, bidding, contracting, managing, and eventual closeout. I could build this thing myself, but its gonna take me the better part of 6-8 months. I just don't have the ambition or time with work/kids.

Also I need a COI from the contractor, thats a big one for me.

24 hours after no response from last time I mentally wrote him off, but he did come back a little bit later with a vary attractive price even with all my critiques and updates. So I am still on the fence, there is some amount of money worth a headache, but what is it? His payment terms are also more attractive.

I also went out and got a stand alone quote for insulated, black garage doors (no openers) to the tune of $8.5K installed. So there is a good $6K in doors that one guy includes vs the other guy, good to know.

My variance battle continues. Filled out the endless forms, get to the end and find a requirement for a survey with proposed building layout. GRRRRR, now I need to pay a service for this when it could still be rejected. Nothing like a waste of money (and time to fill out 7 pages of stupid)....

Our home inspection is finally scheduled for Monday for final bank sign offs, been waiting nearly 2.5 weeks.

Been nothing but cold temps and drenching rains. I need to get my french drain installed. Hope to go out and get some perforated drain tile today/tomorrow, and a load of clean stone next week. Trying to line up the BILs backhoe for the trench.

 

[DieselSlug]

Got the 100' of perforated 4". I tried to get the crap with the sock but couldn't only get it in 250' coils, I dont want that much sitting around.

Dug a trench with the wrong tool (skidsteer) for now to drain the pond. It worked.

 

[jrsavoie]

Got the 100' of perforated 4". I tried to get the crap with the sock but couldn't only get it in 250' coils, I dont want that much sitting around.

Dug a trench with the wrong tool (skidsteer) for now to drain the pond. It worked.
View attachment 99400View attachment 99401

I've backfilled over the tile with clean rock and a layer of landscape cloth or house wrap - inside out. So the water goes through the rohjt direction

 

[DieselSlug]

I've backfilled over the tile with clean rock and a layer of landscape cloth or house wrap - inside out. So the water goes through the rohjt direction

My thought was backfill trench (gonna dig more to roughly 1' wide by around 2' deep, nearly 100 ' long) with #2s (rounded 2 inch and less washed). Then once it reaches the grass area, cover the stone with a layer of geo fabric 6 to 8" below the surface, and backfill the top woth topsoil and seed. Where it runs under the future driveway i will fill with stone to grade, then a layer of geo fabric like I did with the rest of the driveway to separate the runner crush limestone driveway mix.

Big thing is I only need a 1/4 load of #2s. May have to get a full load and use it below the runner crush in the lower areas just to use it up.

 

[jrsavoie]

My thought was backfill trench (gonna dig more to roughly 1' wide by around 2' deep, nearly 100 ' long) with #2s (rounded 2 inch and less washed). Then once it reaches the grass area, cover the stone with a layer of geo fabric 6 to 8" below the surface, and backfill the top woth topsoil and seed. Where it runs under the future driveway i will fill with stone to grade, then a layer of geo fabric like I did with the rest of the driveway to separate the runner crush limestone driveway mix.

Big thing is I only need a 1/4 load of #2s. May have to get a full load and use it below the runner crush in the lower areas just to use it up.

That method has the potential to.movr a lot more water than the tile burned in dirt

 

[DieselSlug]

That method has the potential to.movr a lot more water than the tile burned in dirt

Agree, I've done these before in really wet backyards and they worked very well. Even once the barn is built, the rain will still come off the roof and land in this low spot. I wanted to do gutters, but gutters, metal roof, snow, and ice is a recipe for ripping gutters clean off. Would need to get a cleat system quoted and installed if I went this route.