Patch has gone around one corner too many!

[WarWagon]

Gets real exciting when you have an extra crack noise when the turn signal cancels and then a 'crunch crunch' before the steering wheel jams up. Extra force turns the wheel with all kinds of interesting noise including the horn going off. Turning the wheel causes the horn to stop or go off.

Going slow enough that it wasn't too exciting. No horn fuse so I had to pull the horn relay.

Continuing on with crunching noises in the steering column I finish the first load of rocks delivered off road with a dump trailer.

The second load had 4x4 give up. The rear locker hasn't worked in at least 30K miles maybe more. So have to grab another 4x4 to pull the truck and dump trailer out.

Thermal actuator finally burned open. I grabbed the spare form the wrecked truck parts pile and fixed it cheap enough.

The horn brush failure was extreme. I even had to pull debris out of the upper bearing.

 

[Will L.]

Dude, you make everything an exciting adventure! Don't get me wrong, I break things but it usually involves something airborne. Loss of steering from a turn signal switch is impressive.

Having a spare to pull for the actuator I would use it also, but if you ever have to buy I like the cable. Nothing beats mechanical operation imo. What rear locker you running, the detroit?

 

[WarWagon]

I think it has a factory G80 Gov bomb.

 

[rlb]

The second load had 4x4 give up. The rear locker hasn't worked in at least 30K miles maybe more. So have to grab another 4x4 to pull the truck and dump trailer out.

Thermal actuator finally burned open. I grabbed the spare form the wrecked truck parts pile and fixed it cheap enough.

Would you guys educate me on how the 4x4 actuator works. On my truck, this is the thingamajig and wiring harness connected to the front diff?

I have a 1994 K2500 suburban 5.7

 

[ak diesel driver]

TLA thermo linear actuator. when electricity is supplied it heats up the actuator which then in turns expands and gets longer engaging the front end. newer style (97+ IIRC) is all electric quicker and less prone to failure. You can buy a kit to swap yours over.

 

[rlb]

TLA thermo linear actuator. when electricity is supplied it heats up the actuator which then in turns expands and gets longer engaging the front end. newer style (97+ IIRC) is all electric quicker and less prone to failure. You can buy a kit to swap yours over.

That does sound like a pretty ridiculous way to go about it. Is there an open diff in the front or is it just locked when engaged?

 

[WarWagon]

That does sound like a pretty ridiculous way to go about it. Is there an open diff in the front or is it just locked when engaged?

The old auto locking hubs were also fail prone and would wear out even in 2WD mode if you did not tear them down and grease them now and then. Manual hubs required you to exit the vehicle and lock both hubs in usually in slippery, muddy, rain/sleet/snow, and nasty conditions.

The front diff is always open without any locker in it. Aftermarket may offer some lockers.

The actuator engages the diff to one axle while the other side is always engaged. This is almost like locking in the hubs except you always have one hub locked in.