• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

OTC SCANNER AND WHERE THE TUNE NOW SETS

Personally, I mount the IP at the OE orientation of -0.75 and let the computer do its job. This is an ongoing debate as to whether physically mounting an IP in the 'advanced' position has any (long-term) benefit in an OBD-II system.

As Ferm mentions, the #9 resistor does not benefit a OBD-II system as IIRC the computer will correct for it in time and cancel any 'benefit' that it is supposed to have.


Aside, Out of curiosity, what scanner is that?
 
I am having to do this from My phone as the web browser on My computer is messing up real bad. I will try to get in as often as possible.
Another question, if going to a bigger turbo, will that increase the exhaust temps under load ?
If I were to adjust the manual waste gate to a higher setting, would that help to increase the MPGs ?
 
ak diesel driver said:
bigger turbo should reduce exhaust temp. Higher wastegate setting won't affect mileage much if any.
Click to expand...
Okay, I guess I will be putting a kit for the turbo on My shopping list. Probably should do a rebuild on it anyway with 240,000 miles. dont want to have a seal start leaking.
Is there any recommendations for which turbo kit and wheels to install into one of these ?
 
If you're running a turbomaster instead of the stock vacuum system, you've lost a couple of mpg's right there cruising empty. Added boost when not needed is extra work the engine is doing for no reason. It has been proven that the vacuum system does better than a turbomaster as the vacuum system will drop boost back to 1-3 psi at cruise whereas a turbomaster will be running 3-7 at cruise. As to turbo kits, ditch the factory gm-x series turbo, and go with a larger free flowing turbo. I wouldn't even consider wasting money on a stock turbo.
 
JayTheCPA said:
Personally, I mount the IP at the OE orientation of -0.75 and let the computer do its job. This is an ongoing debate as to whether physically mounting an IP in the 'advanced' position has any (long-term) benefit in an OBD-II system.

As Ferm mentions, the #9 resistor does not benefit a OBD-II system as IIRC the computer will correct for it in time and cancel any 'benefit' that it is supposed to have.


Aside, Out of curiosity, what scanner is that?
Click to expand...
No, the ecm cannot learn around the resistor. It is a calibration resistor that the ecm uses to determine fueling. And I didn't say it doesn't benefit, it just doesn't give that much more fuel, and it throws the fuel readings off across the board. It's the same for obd1 as it is obd2 as they are very similiar controllers aside from one using a removable prom, and one has it soldered in and supports internal flashing. As to adjusting the tdc offset, you can gain a couple of degrees of peak timing by running an extra degree of tdc offset. The tdc offset is done to get the pump in a physical orientation so it can vary the tim8ng in a desired range. The factory spec iirc puts the pump at 3.5 degrees of timing when the pump goes full retarded, and it has 11 degrees of rotation to equal out to 22 degrees of total crank advance for 25.5 degrees timing at max advance. By bumping the tdc offset, you can allow timing higher than 25.5 degrees, but only if you advance the tdc offset. So if you're after peak power with a tune, you need to bump the tdc offset up to allow the pump to achieve the timing they want to run.
 
THEFERMANATOR said:
If you're running a turbomaster instead of the stock vacuum system, you've lost a couple of mpg's right there cruising empty. Added boost when not needed is extra work the engine is doing for no reason. It has been proven that the vacuum system does better than a turbomaster as the vacuum system will drop boost back to 1-3 psi at cruise whereas a turbomaster will be running 3-7 at cruise. As to turbo kits, ditch the factory gm-x series turbo, and go with a larger free flowing turbo. I wouldn't even consider wasting money on a stock turbo.
Click to expand...
I guess I had better climb back into the back of the engine compartment, unplug the harnesses and do some more cleaning of terminals. it did seem to help when the boost system malfunction when I did the last cleaning, using the hand held bead blaster. I have some very small dental files that will get into the terminals and I thing should shine them up nicely.
I will look into getting a complete new turbo unit, it will just have not be as soon as I would like it to be. This SS and fixed income has the brakes applied quite heavily. LOL I guess I could go to work, UGGGgggg. LOL
 
THEFERMANATOR said:
No, the ecm cannot learn around the resistor. It is a calibration resistor that the ecm uses to determine fueling. And I didn't say it doesn't benefit, it just doesn't give that much more fuel, and it throws the fuel readings off across the board. It's the same for obd1 as it is obd2 as they are very similiar controllers aside from one using a removable prom, and one has it soldered in and supports internal flashing. As to adjusting the tdc offset, you can gain a couple of degrees of peak timing by running an extra degree of tdc offset. The tdc offset is done to get the pump in a physical orientation so it can vary the tim8ng in a desired range. The factory spec iirc puts the pump at 3.5 degrees of timing when the pump goes full retarded, and it has 11 degrees of rotation to equal out to 22 degrees of total crank advance for 25.5 degrees timing at max advance. By bumping the tdc offset, you can allow timing higher than 25.5 degrees, but only if you advance the tdc offset. So if you're after peak power with a tune, you need to bump the tdc offset up to allow the pump to achieve the timing they want to run.
Click to expand...
So then, where would the TDC off set need to be ? Instead of the -0.50 where I now have it set, would that need to go more to the + or to the minus. I am guessing here, to me, it would need to go to the + side so that the fuel is injected sooner, at least I think that is what the + numbers would do.
I am very familiar with the OBD1 gas systems, this diesel with the OBD2 is a bit over My head. LOL
 
For a stock tune it doesn't make a big difference, but -1.50 is generally accepted as a safe value yet still allow full advance when running bigger than stock tunes. And I know I'm in the minority, but I actually liked the stock vacuum system for controlling boost. Yes it had some reliability issues, but when working, it worked very well giving the best of all worlds.
 
MrMarty51 said:
Okay, I guess I will be putting a kit for the turbo on My shopping list. Probably should do a rebuild on it anyway with 240,000 miles. dont want to have a seal start leaking.
Is there any recommendations for which turbo kit and wheels to install into one of these ?
Click to expand...

What are you going to do with the truck? Towing heavy on grades the GM Turbo is an Asthma Attack as I published the results of a big ATT turbo here especially the MPG improvements as the load is maxxed out: http://www.maxxtorque.com/2012/07/the-65l-diesel-factory-equipped-asthma.html

Your use may vary and there are many different turbos out there now. Getting an understanding of the trade offs in RPM appears to be the biggest surprise. Generally the huge turbo won't light below 2000 RPM, most other popular turbos also suffer some at lower RPM, but when they lean you back and pull like a freight train all the way near, to, and above redline it's worth the trade off. I have seen many want to lug the diesel like the Asthma Attack turbo likes and are surprised when the big ones can't spool and just smoke. With the extreme heat, AC on, and cooling fan locked up I suffer the worst off the line. I solved the problem with a high stall converter and have the best of both worlds. Instant 2000 RPM off the line, huge turbo lights off, and trouble keeping the rear tires from spinning even with a trailer on it. Without this you need to shift sooner and put up with a delay before you get enough RPM to spool up leaving a stoplight in a hurry.

Case in point: the RPM the Asthma Attack chokes at is where the ATT has lit off and will show you the real power a 6.5/6.2 has. IMO a 1993 gas 454 feels blah vs. the hopped up 6.2 in Patch. Others on here @n8in8or could hold their own vs. a lighter Trailblazer SS that has a 395HP 4400 Ft LB Corvette LS2 revved to 6500 RPM in it.
 
THEFERMANATOR said:
For a stock tune it doesn't make a big difference, but -1.50 is generally accepted as a safe value yet still allow full advance when running bigger than stock tunes. And I know I'm in the minority, but I actually liked the stock vacuum system for controlling boost. Yes it had some reliability issues, but when working, it worked very well giving the best of all worlds.
Click to expand...
I sure do like the way that the computer controlled boost system worked too. I put the manual waste gate controller on as a temporary fix until I can get the time to sort out the P0236 code and the intermittent failing of the boost system. I did drop MPGz though, I am thinking a solid two.

WarWagon said:
What are you going to do with the truck? Towing heavy on grades the GM Turbo is an Asthma Attack as I published the results of a big ATT turbo here especially the MPG improvements as the load is maxxed out: http://www.maxxtorque.com/2012/07/the-65l-diesel-factory-equipped-asthma.html

Your use may vary and there are many different turbos out there now. Getting an understanding of the trade offs in RPM appears to be the biggest surprise. Generally the huge turbo won't light below 2000 RPM, most other popular turbos also suffer some at lower RPM, but when they lean you back and pull like a freight train all the way near, to, and above redline it's worth the trade off. I have seen many want to lug the diesel like the Asthma Attack turbo likes and are surprised when the big ones can't spool and just smoke. With the extreme heat, AC on, and cooling fan locked up I suffer the worst off the line. I solved the problem with a high stall converter and have the best of both worlds. Instant 2000 RPM off the line, huge turbo lights off, and trouble keeping the rear tires from spinning even with a trailer on it. Without this you need to shift sooner and put up with a delay before you get enough RPM to spool up leaving a stoplight in a hurry.

Case in point: the RPM the Asthma Attack chokes at is where the ATT has lit off and will show you the real power a 6.5/6.2 has. IMO a 1993 gas 454 feels blah vs. the hopped up 6.2 in Patch. Others on here @n8in8or could hold their own vs. a lighter Trailblazer SS that has a 395HP 4400 Ft LB Corvette LS2 revved to 6500 RPM in it.
Click to expand...
Not a lot of real heavy pulling, mostly empty on the road. I do have a heavy duty utility trailer, 3500 pound axles, bumper pull. Once in a while I will haul a pickup or a car on that, maybe once a year or less. Having more boost sounds impressive to Me even though the truck does perform quite well, in My opinion, sure beats the old 93 K1500 with the 350 and auto trans. LOL
My old computer I think has totally crapped out on Me, posting from My I phone, a small one to boot, keyboard and screen just jot hig enough for My liking. I wonder if they make a phone with a ten or twelve inch screen ? LOL
 
Do not focus on just boost. I posted the dyno results where an HX40II with 24 LBS of boost produced near the same power as an ATT turbo at ~15 LBS of boost. Backpressure makes a big difference. Unloaded most of the time you could just fix the turbo system you have.
 
WarWagon said:
Do not focus on just boost. I posted the dyno results where an HX40II with 24 LBS of boost produced near the same power as an ATT turbo at ~15 LBS of boost. Backpressure makes a big difference. Unloaded most of the time you could just fix the turbo system you have.
Click to expand...
Yes I will, I want it back to where it was when I first bought the truck.
I just now finished this ford thing and will hae it deliverd to its owner this evening, then, in comes the Chevy. going to go through those terminals with a very small file and see if I can get them cleaned up, and then, hope it all works. I just hope it is not the Power train Module.
Not being able to find a suitable wire brush for cleaning the small weather pack terminals, and the bead blaster doesn`t seem to get in deep enough, I have these small dental files that might get the job done. time will tell. LOL
IMG_3313.jpg
 
The connectors in the weather pack terminals were a dull greyish color. they now are all bright and shiny. Used a points file and scrubbed on the pins of the terminals. that little dental file worked very well at cleaning the female ends. Minute brass colored particles on the connector, blew them all clean with the air hose, shoved them all back together. Got the vacuum waste gate actuator back on and ready for a few trial runs in the morning.
 
Being that the boost system would start messing up within 25 miles, I went out on the north road for 15 miles, turned around and drove back, not a trouble one with the P0236 trouble code, turbo performed like it used to, before installing the manual waste gate controller, so, at this time, I must report that cleaning each of those terminals fixed the problem.
Time will tell, fingers crossed and a prayer to booooot.
 
First long journey out since cleaning the connectors and terminals on the boost control and all the rest of them at the back of the engine.
The truck ran great, the boost system operated as it should without a flaw one.
Pulled an 18 foot tandem utility trailer to Billings {150miles} with a motorcycle loaded on it. Came back home with four 18 foot Maple trees laid down on the deck.
Not heavy loads by any means but it was enough to give the boost system a good shake down.
The pyrometer did climb to what I think is an undesirable range of 1250 degrees and just a slight touch beyond. Might have been 1255 to 1260.
Those temps were on the longest and steepest inclines. The boost pressure reached to 8 pounds and it was putting out a pretty good cloud of coal smoke. LOL
Guess I will do some searching and see what it will take to get the turbo temps down some.
I do know that when the manual waste gate controller was on, the max temp reached was 1,000 degrees at 10 ponds of boost.
The fuel mileage running 70+ mph was right on twelve. With the manual waste gate controller on it was doing about ten to the gallon pulling the same trailer over the same course. I guess I`d rather not mess with loosing two to the gallon though. LOL
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top