OPS question

[Yachtcare]

Setting up my bypass oil filter. I'm taking the feed oil from the top of the extension hose on my OPS. That means I need to create a tee using a 1/4 npt nipple into the top of the extension hose, with a bushing out the side for an 1/8 npt to the filter housing, and re installing the OPS on top of the tee.

At the top of the extension hose there is a restriction in the fitting, sort of like a flare, without the flare. Obviously not the case at the top of the tee. The bottom of the OPS will end up about 2.5" above it's original location in top of the extension hose.......Will this create a false reading/or inoperable switch from the OPS to the gauge at dash? My dual lift pumps are manually switched, so that is not a concern.

Hopefully the pics clarify the situation.

 

[Burning oil]

Won't affect the OPS.

Seems like you'd want 1/4" supply going to bypass though? What are you running as the filter?

 

[JayTheCPA]

Am sure that I am missing something . . .

Is the 'T' going to feed the bypass filter? If Yes, am lost on the point of keeping the OPS given the manually switched LP's. Also, by feeding the bypass filter, suspect it will create a lot of 'false' cut-off's due to lowering the line pressure given the setup is now allowing flow versus a stubbed system.


Is the 'T' just leading to a secondary sending unit for oil pressure or going to some other stub? If so, the pressure should build normally with a minimal chance of 'false' cut-offs.


If the bypass filter is going to get its feed from the OPS line, consider changing the installation by putting it inline with the primary oil filter (or better yet a dual filter housing) as I can personally attest that having a bypass filter in tandem with the primary oil filter just saved my new motor from a lot of damage. I had metal contamination which was contained in the lower end (crank, main & rod bearings, and oil pump) and the dual / bypass filter setup prevented spread to the top end.

 

[hookedup50]

Watching thread. My bypass filter gets its feed from one of the ports off the left side rear of the block near firewall. That is where FS2500 directions wanted feed to come from. I'm seeing if there is a better install method

 

[Yachtcare]

This pic of the mocked up system might help.

I'm using a generic Baldwin spin on by pass housing sourced from NAPA. It has 1/8" NPT in/outlets. The NAPA spin on (2 micron)filter also has 1/8" restriction holes in it. I believe the concept is not to reduce pressure from the main filter circuit, to reduce chance of starvation problems, since the oil is passing thru the 2 micron media much slower.

I didn't want to eliminate the OPS switch simply so the dash gauge would still work. Would rather not add an additional after market gauge if I didn't have too.

My original thought was to take the feed line from my dual filter, but since the dual system is on the firewall, driver side corner, that greatly increased the distance and complexity of getting the line to by pass housing. As you can see from the pic, taking it from the extension hose makes it pretty strait forward, and I didn't have to custom fab any hoses. (they are mercruiser trim/tilt lines with 1/8" bubble flare) NAPA has the fittings (1/8" npt to 1/8" flare) I need to pick up yet.

 

[JayTheCPA]

This is the setup that spared my motor from widespread damage:

http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-produ...se-dual-remote-oil-bypass-unit/?code=BMK23-EA

There are a couple additional parts for the 6.5 and will dig them up if there is interest. The kit comes with enough hose for most setups, but I had to buy an additional hose due to how far back the filter housing was mounted.

For the 4x4 trucks, a remote filter is a must-have unless you want to live with gnasty oil filter changes.

Personally, am not sold that filtration of oil that has already entered the block is the best method; catching the oil just after it leaves the pump is.

 

[Burning oil]

Jay, unless I'm wrong not all the oil (in one pass) is going to be filtered by any bypass filter. So if debris gets pushed around and gets past full flow filter it could make several trips around the engine before being filtered.
The bypass filter eventually filters all the oil about every 20 minutes ("they say"). So I think placement of the bypass doesn't really matter just as long as its in there somewhere. It also depends on where damaging particles originate from. If they came from the camshaft then placement of bypass filter just after the full flow would not be the ideal spot either.
Its just luck of the draw I think. The important thing is that a bypass filter does its job over the long term of normal filtering.

 

[hookedup50]

As far as I know, a bypass filter is filtering up to 20% of the oil, and the rest is going through the regular filter.

 

[JayTheCPA]

Las I checked, the primary filter can let some oil skip it altogether (bypass oil) and hence part of the reason the bypass filter. naturally am open to somebody correcting me on this. Called AMSIOL yesterday to confirm that the dual / bypass remote setup (that I referenced) filters 100% of the oil each pass. Point is that by installing a bypass somewhere other than in tandem with the primary filter, some oil will bypass the primary filter and then eventually / maybe go through the bypass filter. My vote is to make sure that all oil goes through a filter with each pass.

 

[Burning oil]

That Would be nice, but all the oil cannot go through the bypass filter on each pass. Only a % go's through it. If all the oil was forced though on each pass there would be a starvation of oil as not enough volume could get by.

 

[JayTheCPA]

Correct. With the dual remote setup, not all of the oil goes through the bypass filter, but Rather *all* the oil does go through a filter before it hits the motor. if the Bypass filter gets its flow separately from the main filter (ex: from the OPS), then particles have the opportunity to get into the upper end.

 

[Burning oil]

Again though not all of the oil go's through the bypass filter on each and every pass. So some particles will make several trips through the system before they "by chance" go through the bypass. The oil is going to take path of least resistance, so its important to change filters on bypass filter systems. As the element becomes "used up" more and more oil will not go through it if it can more easily go somewhere else. This is a big plus for the centrifuge systems as the restriction is never more than what you started with, it will be consistent though out. That and the fact that Amsoil and other elements are expensive. The centrifuge can pay for itself pretty quick.

 

[Yachtcare]

Well, since I really had no definitive answer to my original question (will the OPS register a pressure signal to the dash gauge) I just went ahead and finished up this part of my huge project for the moment
I drilled and tapped the oil fill tube for the return line, installed my flare fittings, found an old pressure gauge and some extra fittings in the shop and put it all together. The pics are what I ended up with.

I wont be able to test this system for a couple weeks yet, as I have to install a redi sleeve on the crank, rear main seal, fresh transmission, and the next underhood project, a coolant by pass filtration system.

 

[JayTheCPA]

Well, since I really had no definitive answer to my original question (will the OPS register a pressure signal to the dash gauge) . . .

Apologies as I got a little side-tracked.

From what I am seeing, it actually will work given that AMSOIL's bypass-only kit states that a common installation is to use the OPS feed.



Regarding the dual / bypass filter kit, got details back from AMSOIL and have confirmation and a correction.

Confirmation: Yes, the dual / bypass kit does filter 100% of the oil with each pass, unless . . .

Correction: when the full flow (main) filter's bypass valve opens, at lease some (and possibly possibly none) of the oil will get filtration until the valve closes again. AMSOIL stated that this should not happen on a normal basis, but am reading where conditions such as cold oil will in fact cause the bypass valve to open.

 

[Burning oil]

Well, since I really had no definitive answer to my original question (will the OPS register a pressure signal to the dash gauge) I just went ahead and finished up this part of my huge project for the moment
I drilled and tapped the oil fill tube for the return line, installed my flare fittings, found an old pressure gauge and some extra fittings in the shop and put it all together. The pics are what I ended up with.

I wont be able to test this system for a couple weeks yet, as I have to install a redi sleeve on the crank, rear main seal, fresh transmission, and the next underhood project, a coolant by pass filtration system.View attachment 44813 View attachment 44814

Won't affect the OPS.

Regarding the dual / bypass filter kit, got details back from AMSOIL and have confirmation and a correction.

Confirmation: Yes, the dual / bypass kit does filter 100% of the oil with each pass, unless . . .

Correction: when the full flow (main) filter's bypass valve opens, at lease some (and possibly possibly none) of the oil will get filtration until the valve closes again. AMSOIL stated that this should not happen on a normal basis, but am reading where conditions such as cold oil will in fact cause the bypass valve to open.

Im not talking about "if" the full flow filters bypass valve has opened due to an abnormal condition, thats a whole different thing.


I just want to clarify too that the Amsoil full flow/bypass combo does filter 100% on each pass, BUT! not 100% of the oil go's though the bypass portion of the combo on each pass (the engine would starve of oil and burn up if it did). So, its only "by chance" debris go's into the bypass filter and those odds go down the dirtier the bypass filter gets because the oil will take path of least resistance in the Amsoil design. Taking oil from the OPS increases the odds the debris will be caught sooner IMO that's because more oil volume makes it to the OPS port than would go through a full flow/bypass combo (again IMO).